Forum and Costume Controls

   FAQFAQ  SearchSearch  MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups  medals.php?sid=47c1d8d0cdf00250d499e89c935ce3d6Medals   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in

       
REMINDER: Do not change your e-mail address yourself. Please read this first for why.

Standard Discussion- General Leia Organa- Crait
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
 
Post new topic   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Royalty/Senatorial -> Leia
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
PondLife81 (Christine Evans)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 17 Feb 2016
Posts: 280
Location: NYC
Medals: 1 (View more...)
2018 Dragon Con Medal (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 9:17 pm    Post subject: Standard Discussion- General Leia Organa- Crait Reply with quote

Started work on Crait, incorporated aspect of Raddis Gown that were the same.

GENERAL LEIA ORGANA-CRAIT

1.) Boots:

Plain black closed-toed boots with low heel (up to 2″ or 50mm). Boots should not have any buckles, laces, or obvious decorative designs.

2.) Under dress:
a. Straight, ankle length dress of dark chocolate, diamond patterned, lightweight fabric (suggested: cotton, other lightweight matte fabric), lined with another solid lightweight fabric.
b. The bottom of the dress, and lining is finished independently with a two inch hem with no visible stitching on the outer garment.
c. The dress has a jewel neckline and no visible seams or darts on the front. The underdress is finished off with a smooth-cap, narrow-wrist, full-length sleeve.

3.) Great Cloak:
a. Floor length great cloak is constructed of a seal brown matte sateen finish fabric (pantone mix of 19-1314 TPX/19-0810 TCX), this is not a silk type satin, but a brushed satin suiting.
b. The cloak is SW take of a traditional Inverness style sleeveless jacket.
c. The body of the garment is slightly longer than the under dress and is a looser fit than the underdress. It should not be more than an inch off the ground.
d. The body of the cloak has an asymmetrical center front opening that extends directly from the front of the garment without a neck seam.
e. The right collar has the ability to close over the left. There is an invisible closure on the left shoulder.
f. The collar, in the standing position, meets the center of the wearer’s ear on the side and extends around concealing the face to the bridge of the nose.
g. The back neck is shaped by a separate collar piece connecting to the center back by a horizontal neck seam. Collar reaches past the wearers hairline.
h. The long tapered bottom sleeves are set into the garment at the front of the shoulder at the armscye, and extend back to attach on to the back of the cape with a back shoulder seam.
i. There is no center back seam to the cape.
j. The sleeves are faced with the outer fabric, then lined with a matching brown silk-like fabric.
k. The coat is fully lined, the neck and center front opening are self-faced with the outer fabric.
l. There is no visible topstitching on any edges.

4) Hair
a. The front of the hair is styled swept back in front with a twisted band across the top of the head
b. There is a bouffant style hair bump at the crown of the head approximately 3 inches/ 7.6 cm in height
c. The front twisted band is hidden on the sides by sections of hair above the ears – these sections are pinned under the bouffant hair in the back of the head
d. There are two low loose buns pinned to the bottom of the hairline covering the back of the head horizontally. The buns start vertically at the halfway point of the ear and ending at the halfway point of the neck
e. Naturally-occurring hair color only (brown with a touch of gray recommended); no bangs. If a wig or extensions are used, they must be of high quality and appear like real hair

5) Jewelry
a. Screen accurate gold or bronze ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear
b. A screen accurate brass or antique gold three band bracelet accented with breads of brass and cut blue stones is worn on the right wrist.
c. A screen accurate gold or bronze ring with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger
d. A screen accurate gold or bronze blue tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger

Optional Items:
1) A screen accurate tracking device worn on the left wrist colored to match visual references and held with a ¼ inch/.6 cm black chord.
2) Natural makeup: matte red-brown lipstick, light blush, light brown eyeshadow, and mascara

Cloak Pantones:


Underdress Pantones:


Last edited by PondLife81 (Christine Evans) on Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:51 pm; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Sothis (Alyona)
Rebel Legion Reserve


Joined: 27 Oct 2008
Posts: 67
Location: Moscow
Medals: None

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello there! It's a nice start, but have to question the colour choices! Do you have any proofs that the inner dress is chocolate and the cape is brown?
From the article and the interview I can say that the inner dress ia black and the coat is dark olive.
1. http://hollywoodmoviecostumesandprops.blogspot.ru/2017/12/star-wars-last-jedi-film-costumes-on.html?m=1 - "This costume consists of a black dyed textured rayon dress, dark olive cape, gold bracelet and rings and black leather boots."
2. Michael Kaplan for Fashionista https://www.google.ru/amp/s/fashionista.com/.amp/2017/12/star-wars-last-jedi-costumes - "So I thought capes were good, especially when she's in the cave and on the battlefield. There are pictures of Queen Elizabeth II wearing a military cape that inspired me. "
.."She has two costumes that are somewhat similar because they're both capes. One is metallic woven fabric and the other one which is much more simple — a gray-green cape that she wears until the end of the film."
And about the cape fabric. It might be a satine, but the girls at the premiere thinks it's something like suede and I tend to agree because satine is just too shiny.
_________________
Failure is a guarantee of success.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
PondLife81 (Christine Evans)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 17 Feb 2016
Posts: 280
Location: NYC
Medals: 1 (View more...)
2018 Dragon Con Medal (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for looking this over and your feedback.

I had the opportunity to spend quiet a bit on time with the Crait dress a few weeks back. It is currently on display at the FIDM Museum in LA. http://fidmmuseum.org/exhibitions/current/

The display is wonderfully laid out and well lit, I was able to get color, and fiber content identification off of the garment at that time.

I have updated my description of the underdress above, I forgot to post the pantones and update the writing, in my notes I had it listed as a Dark Chocolate, thank you for catching that.

The articles that you posted links to are fascinating reads, I remember how exciting it was to see these when they were posted. The "Hollywood Movie Costume" article is a blog, when I read it I wasn't able to track who the writer is. The pictures are the best they could have done at that time, but the display is so poorly lit I am sure that is where much of their color issues are coming from.

As for Michael quote in the the article, the fabric does have a gray-green hue to the brown. You can see this in the pantones that I posted. As we all know colors are made of several different other colors and this cloak is a wonderful example of this.
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
SongofAmazon (Jenna)
Detachment CO
Detachment CO


Joined: 09 Aug 2008
Posts: 2443
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for putting this together. I'm going to sticky it so that more people will see it.
_________________


In planning and progress:
Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

Galactic Senate DCO | RLGS FaceBook | RLGS Web Site
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
RogueWic ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 04 May 2016
Posts: 32

Medals: 1 (View more...)
Rebel Legion Supporter (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just made my second visit to the FIDM show where I took some close up photos and went straight to the stores that sell woolens. Their opinion was that it is a wool flannel. Their reasoning was that the fabric has some roughed up areas that are characteristic of flannels. Also, flannels have a slight sheen to them.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
stripeythecat (Alex Rose)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 13 Jan 2012
Posts: 41
Location: London
Medals: 1 (View more...)
TFA LFL Red Carpet World Premiere (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not convinced about flannel as I don't think it would drape so well and it is, after all, the material of school uniform trousers which don't have as much of a sheen as I think we need. However, in the UK we might have slightly different terms for things. There are so many different blends of each fabric these days, we'll probably end up buying something called "brushed satin flannel moleskin suiting" ...

Also, for the standards, I believe the dress is flared not straight. It's like the swing dress which Alyona posted earlier.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
RogueWic ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 04 May 2016
Posts: 32

Medals: 1 (View more...)
Rebel Legion Supporter (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree about the different names for fabric. I looked up flannel satin moleskin suiting fabric and all I found was some scary pajama material. Is the flannel you mentioned cotton or wool?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 21 Apr 2015
Posts: 293

Medals: None

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think ankle length is not a great description for the under dress based on some photos I have seen? It seems to me that this also hits almost to the floor.

I also think we should add descriptions of where the angled outer cloak sleeves fall on the body to try and help people navigating the proportions.

Given that the description is called "Olive" I think we would be better served calling it Olive-Brown, or Dark Olive as we will end up with a variety of brown cloaks as people are not checking pantones regularly

Do we thing "jewel" neckline is accurate? I have seen this as a higher neckline than what appears on screen?

Lastly I would say each time we are editing the proposed standards we should re-post and highlight or change color for the changed areas rather than editing the first post Smile
_________________

Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
RogueWic ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 04 May 2016
Posts: 32

Medals: 1 (View more...)
Rebel Legion Supporter (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[img]https://www.fanthatracks.com/news/ew-luke-leia-whats-stake-long-lost-twins-last-jedi/[/img]

Okay. I can't get this photo to open but anyway, it is a picture of Crait Leia without the cloak. It looks like there is a dart or a seam line above the bust. I would love to know what other people make of this. The more I look at it, the more I think it's an armhole dart.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
PondLife81 (Christine Evans)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 17 Feb 2016
Posts: 280
Location: NYC
Medals: 1 (View more...)
2018 Dragon Con Medal (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On Length: I can agree that it could be made longer in the standard with the option of an inch or so off the floor. I really don't want to drag this fabric through the dirt on a baseball field.

On the asymmetrical angles and sleeves: This would be a great addition with the caveat of "in proportion to the wearer"

Cloak Fabric: The fabric is definitely a sateen weave, there was nothing spongey (like flannel) it has a slight pill to the fabric but I think this was from wear. Its is a finer fiber than wool, the strands are far longer. It doesn't read as a woolen until you realize that it is a suiting.

Cloak Color: I love the idea of using Pantone rainbows to help builders. "Colors along this spectrum will be accepted." I was able to find amazing fabric for this costume with the pantones. We start using "Olive" we will end up with green cloaks.

I was discussing this very topic with a designer the other day and they were questioning the pros and cons of the "Screen Accurate" (What is seen on the screen) color vs. the "Hero Accurate" (What is seen in real life without filters). They said something very poignant, the 7 year old seeing you at an event is going to be thinking of what he saw on the screen, not a production still, or exhibit.

Collar shape: I went back and forth on calling this a "boat neck" or "Jewel", but it is a traditional "Jewel" (as in a gown style, not t-shirt) it is slightly wider than a typical round collar at the sides then goes down to the clavicles. The neck Line does move on Carrie, from shot to shot.

Lastly RogueWic thanks for the huge version of that picture, its one of my favs! Thats great. But the "dart" you are seeing is a "drag" line. But I am not unconvinced that there might be a side bust dart on the underdress.

I am adding some additional photos here, one is of the fabric/dress at the museum, taken with a natural light filter (The exhibit is already using a white light as well, no gels) a close up of the fabric, and next is of one of my fabrics that was color matched against the garment, next to a drab olive "Ike Jacket"

Cloak in Exhibit:


Olive against sourced fabric:


Close up of fabric:
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
stripeythecat (Alex Rose)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 13 Jan 2012
Posts: 41
Location: London
Medals: 1 (View more...)
TFA LFL Red Carpet World Premiere (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about the slight sparkle/shimmer on the dress, where the outline of the diamonds meet? Is that just lighting and should we be aiming for it if possible (bearing in mind I'm finding it very difficult to get suitable fabric here in the UK, let alone with a shiny/pearlised blob in it). Also, I'm sure the dress is flared.

Last edited by stripeythecat (Alex Rose) on Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 21 Apr 2015
Posts: 293

Medals: None

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PondLife81 wrote:
On Length: I can agree that it could be made longer in the standard with the option of an inch or so off the floor. I really don't want to drag this fabric through the dirt on a baseball field.

On the asymmetrical angles and sleeves: This would be a great addition with the caveat of "in proportion to the wearer"

Cloak Fabric: The fabric is definitely a sateen weave, there was nothing spongey (like flannel) it has a slight pill to the fabric but I think this was from wear. Its is a finer fiber than wool, the strands are far longer. It doesn't read as a woolen until you realize that it is a suiting.

Cloak Color: I love the idea of using Pantone rainbows to help builders. "Colors along this spectrum will be accepted." I was able to find amazing fabric for this costume with the pantones. We start using "Olive" we will end up with green cloaks.

I was discussing this very topic with a designer the other day and they were questioning the pros and cons of the "Screen Accurate" (What is seen on the screen) color vs. the "Hero Accurate" (What is seen in real life without filters). They said something very poignant, the 7 year old seeing you at an event is going to be thinking of what he saw on the screen, not a production still, or exhibit.

Collar shape: I went back and forth on calling this a "boat neck" or "Jewel", but it is a traditional "Jewel" (as in a gown style, not t-shirt) it is slightly wider than a typical round collar at the sides then goes down to the clavicles. The neck Line does move on Carrie, from shot to shot.



Re collar: I think we either need to call it a boat neck or add the description you just provided regarding a jewel collar, so something like "a wide jewel collar that extends to the clavicles on each side" or something like that

Re sleeves: so do you have a proposal for where the sleeves should hit roughly based on your research? You have looked at a lot more photos than me...

re color: if we are going off the screen then it is a pretty solid grey- if we say brown we are going to get vanity fair brown...

re hem: so are we ok changing the description to "floor length to 1 inch off floor length gown" rather than ankle length?

I agree with Stripeythecat regarding the metallic threads in the under dress
_________________

Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
PondLife81 (Christine Evans)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 17 Feb 2016
Posts: 280
Location: NYC
Medals: 1 (View more...)
2018 Dragon Con Medal (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I am working on the underdress I agree that it is flared and it is starting at the bustline and tapering down.

I am worried to call the collar a boat neck because it isn't wide to the shoulders so finding a description that we all like would be better.

The "sparkle" you are seeing is white threads. Probably the bobbin thread of the stitched design pulling through the fabric. There is no metallic to it.

Here is a close up of the fabric, you can see the threads pulled through. I am not sure if we want to make this required, I just got the blue ray to see how many of these pull throughs are obvious on the screen, I have included a couple here. Close up images images from FIDM.

Working on sleeve research now.






Images fro Blue Ray:



Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
ellisbelle (Julie Douberly)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 07 Jan 2018
Posts: 18
Location: Georgia
Medals: 1 (View more...)
2018 Dragon Con Medal (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am worried to call the collar a boat neck because it isn't wide to the shoulders so finding a description that we all like would be better.

The "sparkle" you are seeing is white threads. Probably the bobbin thread of the stitched design pulling through the fabric. There is no metallic to it.




So the diamond pattern on the under dress is not metallic at all? It looks metallic here in the Vanity Fair photo with Mark.


_________________
"We are what they grow beyond"--Yoda

ellisbellecosplay on Instagram

Approved Costumes:
General Leia Organa (Crait)

Works-in-Progress:
General Leia Organa (Raddus Bridge)
General Leia Organa (Medbay)
General Leia Organa (D'Qar, Blue Dress 2.0)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
PondLife81 (Christine Evans)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 17 Feb 2016
Posts: 280
Location: NYC
Medals: 1 (View more...)
2018 Dragon Con Medal (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some of the revisions and additions:


1.) Boots:
Plain black closed-toed boots with low heel (up to 2″ or 50mm). Boots should not have any buckles, laces, or obvious decorative designs.

2.) Under dress:
a. The body of the dress is cut flared with a gradual A line, dress of dark chocolate to off black, diamond patterned, lightweight fabric (suggested: cotton, other lightweight matte fabric), lined with another dark solid lightweight fabric. The dress is floor length to 1 inch off floor length gown.
b. The bottom of the dress, and lining is finished independently with a two inch hem with no visible stitching on the outer garment.
c. The dress has a wide jewel neckline that dips below the clavicle and no visible seams or darts on the front. The underdress is finished off with a smooth-cap, narrow-wrist, full-length sleeve.

3.) Great Cloak:
a. Floor length great cloak is constructed of a seal brown matte satin finish fabric (pantone mix of 19-1314 TPX/19-0810 TCX), this is not a silk type satin, but a brushed satin suiting.
b. The cloak is SW take of a traditional Inverness style sleeveless jacket.
c. The body of the garment is slightly longer than the under dress and is a looser fit than the underdress. It should not be more than an inch off the ground.
d. The body of the cloak has an asymmetrical center front opening that extends directly from the front of the garment without a neck seam.
e. The right collar has the ability to close over the left. There is an invisible closure on the left shoulder.
f. The collar, in the standing position, meets the center of the wearer’s ear on the side and extends around concealing the face to the bridge of the nose.
g. The back neck is shaped by a separate collar piece connecting to the center back by a horizontal neck seam. Collar reaches past the wearers hairline.
h. The long tapered bottom sleeves are set into the garment at the front of the shoulder in the armscye, and extend back to attach on to the back of the cape with a back shoulder seam.
i. The bottom of the sleeves end just below the knee and taper back to end at the hem of the body of the garment.
j. There is no center back seam to the cape.
k. The sleeves are faced with the outer fabric, then lined with a matching brown silk-like fabric.
l. The coat is fully lined, the neck and center front opening are self-faced with the outer fabric.
m. There is no visible topstitching on any edges.



4) Hair
a. The front of the hair is styled swept back in front with a twisted band across the top of the head
b. There is a bouffant style hair bump at the crown of the head approximately 3 inches/ 7.6 cm in height
c. The front twisted band is hidden on the sides by sections of hair above the ears – these sections are pinned under the bouffant hair in the back of the head
d. There are two low loose buns pinned to the bottom of the hairline covering the back of the head horizontally. The buns start vertically at the halfway point of the ear and ending at the halfway point of the neck
e. Naturally-occurring hair color only (brown with a touch of gray recommended); no bangs. If a wig or extensions are used, they must be of high quality and appear like real hair


5) Jewelry
a. Screen accurate gold or bronze ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear
b. A screen accurate brass or antique gold three band bracelet accented with breads of brass and cut blue stones is worn on the right wrist.
c. A screen accurate gold or bronze ring with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger
d. A screen accurate gold or bronze blue tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger


Optional Items:
1) A screen accurate tracking device worn on the left wrist colored to match visual references and held with a ¼ inch/.6 cm black chord.
2) Natural makeup: matte red-brown lipstick, light blush, light brown eyeshadow, and mascara
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Royalty/Senatorial -> Leia All times are GMT
Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next
Page 1 of 3

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can post calendar events in this forum
The Rebel Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred volunteer Rebel costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © 2018 Lucasfilm Ltd. & ™ All rights reserved. Used under authorization.


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group