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Generic Resistance X-Wing Pilot Standards Revamp (FINISHED!)
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Blue Banshee Leader (Alex Buirch)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting that, while I don’t think we need to be too technical with optional items I do see what you’re saying. That picture might be a good reference picture to use in the standards. Do you mind if I put a link to the image in the standards?
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BigFatCat (Geoff Hawley)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue Banshee Leader wrote:
Do you mind if I put a link to the image in the standards?

No, by all means. I'm keen that any information I'm aware of that's relevant is shared where possible.
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Blue Banshee Leader (Alex Buirch)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigFatCat wrote:
Blue Banshee Leader wrote:
Do you mind if I put a link to the image in the standards?

No, by all means. I'm keen that any information I'm aware of that's relevant is shared where possible.
Roger roger! Are the images from the TFA/TLJ visual guides or something?
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BigFatCat (Geoff Hawley)
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those ones are from the Visual Dictionaries I think. I use either that or social media posts, John Boyega quite likes his Glie.
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Blue Banshee Leader (Alex Buirch)
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roger roger! I don't have access to the submitted proposal anymore so whatever happens with it is out of my hands.
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Kylo Ren (Dawn Bright)
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2018 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great start however I feel this is way to detailed. I think some of these items need to be removed or some leniency given. Just for transparency sake id like to see it a taste more like this. With a lot more removed or less detailed as I think this is still way way to wordy. If I was an applicant I would find this very confusing. A wall of text is no fun to read for anyone judges and applicants alike. Sorry If I sound harsh on this I know you put a lot of work into it. However I (for judging sake) like to look on the side of getting folks approved. I worry this may turn some folks away.


Required Items
Flightsuit

*The flight suit is a one-piece pair of coveralls.T
*The suit is tailored to the wearer. (no need to go further with details..., thats what fit the wearer means)
*Made of a heavy orange-red material. (*no ones lookin that close)
*Waist band is removed.
*A strip of 2 to 3 inch pleated/ruffled inch trim goes down the outside of each arm starting from the base of the suit collar and continues down either arm to the sleeve cuff. The strip is same or one or two shades lighter or darker than the color of the suit.
*The sleeves can have two varients:
(A) the sleeve ends roughly near the wrist and a piece of dark gray ribbed wool is attached to the end of the sleeve.
(B) the sleeve ends at the wrist or slightly beyond and does not have a dark gray wool cuff.
*The collar is made of the same pleated/ruffled trim as the arm strip and must be the same color. It is backed with the suit material.
*The collar attaches to the collar of the suit and is approximately 2 inches tall.
*The collar closes in the following variants
(A) one end of the collar is attached to the left collar edge (wearer’s right) of the suit top, wraps around the back and wraps around the front with overlap.
* The collar closes with three or four black or silver hook-and-loop clasps. The collar opens to the wearer’s left.
Or,
(B) both ends of the collar are positioned directly in the center of the suit and does not overlap. To close, the sides of the collar touch and hook together via a hidden fastener.
*On the left upper arm is a 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch (2.5 to 3.8 cm) strip of material of the same material as the suit. The strip is divided into three equal-width pen loops with approximately ¼ inch between each loop, and is stitched directly over the arm trim.
*A strip of orange-red material runs down the front of the suit to cover the zipper, the strip goes straight down the zipper and ends at the crotch.
*Sewn onto the zipper cover roughly 4 or 5 inches (10 to 13 cm) below the collar is a loop that the chestbox attaches to. This loop is roughly 2 inches (5 cm) wide and can be made of either the orange-red suit material of a piece of silver-gray or charcoal gray webbing. Edges must be tucked under before being stitched down, no unfinished edges.
On the back of the suit and above the waist seam, so as to be visible sitting above the belt, is an adjustment strap made of 1 inch (2.5 cm) silver-gray webbing with the outside ends either sewn into the side seams of the top (TFA) or with the edges folded under and stitched down over the top of the suit top side seams (TLJ). A 1 inch (2.5 cm) black plastic side-release buckle is on the strap at roughly the center.
*The pants can end at the ankle or tucked into the boot (TLJ).
*The flightsuit features a pair of chaps made of the same orange-red material as the suit. The chaps are made in two pieces, a front half and a back half, with a seam running down the inside and outside center of them, matching the seams on the pants.
*The chaps wrap around the front and back of the legs and curve up at the outside of the hip, ending in a straight edge about one inch below the waist seam, and this top edge is stitched down.
*The chaps go down the legs and end directly below the knee with a straight stitch across them.
*The bottom edge of the chaps are stitched onto the pants leg.
*On both chaps there is a puffy rectangular cargo pocket on the knee of the chaps with a closure flap over the top of each one. These are centered on the front of the legs. Neither cargo pocket should go lower than the bottom edge of the chaps.
*On the chap of the wearer’s left is a larger rectangular cargo pocket with no closure flap. This pocket has a wide upper edge that is folded over. This pocket features decorative stitching in one of two options: a ladder stitch along the front length of the pocket from bottom to top (under the folded upper edge) done with a close zig-zag stitch (TFA) or vertical stripe stitching going down the face of the folded upper edge (TLJ). This pocket is positioned on the outside of the wearer’s left thigh, higher than the knee cargo pocket.
*Behind the side cargo pocket mentioned just previously is another smaller flat pocket, a simple rectangular piece of material with an open top sat directly behind the cargo pocket, with the top edge sitting slightly higher than the top of the cargo pocket.
*A flat map pocket with a closure flap sits on the front of the wearer’s right thigh. The side that faces toward the inside of the leg is rounded (as is the closure flap) while the other side is straight, making a elongated D shape.
One more large puffy rectangular cargo pocket with a closure flap, is on the outside of the wearer’s right thigh, roughly at the same height as the left thigh cargo pocket but is sat farther back. The front most edge of this cargo pocket is layered over the back edge of the rounded map pocket. It has no decorative stitching.
*There are no rear pockets.
Directly beneath the bottom edges of the chaps are a length of silver-gray 1 inch webbing, one strap on each leg.
*The straps wrap around the legs and the ends are sewn into the inside seam of the pants legs.
*The straps are flat to the pants with no sag, they may need to be stitched in place with a matching thread to keep them tight.
*There is a square metal slide on the front center of each strap in either silver or gunmetal. Black or plastic slides are not acceptable.
Collar example: https://image.ibb.co/daV5qU/Resistance_Collar01.jpg

Flak Vest
*The flak vest consists of two pieces that are stitched together.
*They are stitched together around the vest collar and down the front opening sides of the vest.
*The vest is a off-white and weathered.
*The vest section consists of a large squarish back with circular arm holes with ten approximately 1 1/2 inch (3.8 cm) wide evenly spaced ribs (the number and size of ribs may need to be adjusted depending on the wearer's height, i.e. less for shorter costumers but no more for taller costumers).
*The last rib stops roughly 2 inches (5 cm) above the bottom edge of the back of the vest.
*The front of the vest wraps around the body, stitched together at the sides, and each front side of the vest is made of two pieces, a rectangular upper piece with five ribs of the same width as the ribs on the back, and a lower L-shaped section. There is an open squarish section on the outside of the front vest, on each side, between the rectangular vest piece and the L-shaped piece, and connecting between them is a length of 1 inch white webbing.
*There is a U-shaped piece with a stuffed collar around the neck, the long front sections hang down the front of the torso and on the wearer's right side of the vest are seven ribs again of the same width as all other ribs and the wearer's left side has two ribs.
*Below the seven ribs is a wide ring of material, the same material as the vest, with a piece of black mesh within the ring's hole. Behind the mesh is a piece of black material so that the white isn't seen through the mesh. The outer edges of the vest are thick and rounded.
*Roughly 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) above the two ribs (wearer's left side) the words "PULL TO INFLATE" printed in the Star Wars language of Aurebesh and are displayed and positioned up-side down. The text is black and must be screen printed or ironed on, not written by hand. Approximatly 5 inches (13 cm), above the text is a black Rebel/Resistance starbird insignia.
*A single strip of 2 inch (5 cm) wide trim wraps around the vest, the center of which is positioned on the back of the vest under the last rib and is stitched down along the top and bottom edges and in the very center has a rectangular stitch with an X stitch in the center of the rectangle. The loose ends loop around either side of the vest with a bit of loose hang, and the end of the strip is stitched underneath.
Optional
* White canvas pouch with a closure flap that comes down into a point and is closed with a small piece of white Velcro, which hangs from the right side strap of the vest.
Vest example 1: https://ibb.co/ctz9H9
Vest example 2: https://ibb.co/ksEn4p

Vest Buckle
*The vest buckle is a piece that is roughly 6 inches tall an 4 inches wide (15 cm tall and 10 cm wide) and around 1/4 inch thick (0.6 cm).
*It is white with a black channel down the center of it. The indented side details may either be left white or painted black or light gray.


Chestbox
*The chestbox is a solid rectangular object painted light gray.
Two verticle light blue rectangular buttons on the wearer's right side.
*Four gray rectangular buttons on the wearer's left side, aligned in rows of two.
*The bottom two gray buttons have a small round divot in the center of each.
*Two square glossy white buttons in the upper center of the chestbox.
*The center of the chestbox has a rectangular cut and is painted black or bronze. Below the white buttons there is a long cut in the black rectangle, and the inside of this cut is ribbed.
*A round metallic silver button on the lower left side of the black box.
*A green lightbulb to the right side of the flat black box. A functioning light is optional.
*Beneath the flat black box is a trench that cuts horizontally across the front of the chestbox and down the sides. There is also a wider trench cutting through all four sides of the chestbox, and two more tiny trenches on the front.
*These trenches should be painted either flat black or grey.
*There is a black circle cut on the lower left front corner of the chestbox.
*There is another black colored cut located on the top front of the chestbox.
*A clip attaches the chestbox to the loop on the zipper cover of the coveralls.
A hole on the bottom of the chestbox allows for a black hose to be inserted. *machine hose with rings alternating in two sizes between small and large and the loose end is tucked into the left chap or into the left thigh cargo pocket (TFA) or can be a ribbed gas mask or similar hose with a silver elbow connector with a round base on the other end of the hose, and this connection "attaches" to the left thigh cargo pocket via magnets, Velcro or another hidden system (TLJ).
Chestbox example: https://ibb.co/fk8rVU

Optional
*A tiny hole at the very bottom of this black rectangle, centered, is optional.
**Four pill-shaped cuts are on the wearer's right side of the chestbox and stretch down into the trench. These are painted the same color as the trench.
*Functional LED Lights: if added the lights may either be the single green LED (TFA), or the green LED and backlighted white and light blue buttons (TLJ)

Belt
*Medium gray belt with ribbed detailing.
*There is a silver metal roll-pin buckle on the front of the belt.

Belt example: https://ibb.co/ju5t3m

Optional
*There is a pull tab of black webbing with two vertical rows of contrasting gray stitching or a pull tab of light gray or silver-gray webbing with two rows of gray stitching. Optionally, there is a 1 inch (2.5 cm) belt loop wrapping loosely around the front of the belt behind the roll-pin buckle, the color of which closely matches that of the belt.
*Two black 1 inch (2.5 cm) plastic loops attached to the top or bottom edge of the back of the belt are also optional.

Ejection Harness
The ejection harness is made of approximately 2 inch wide charcoal gray webbing that is lighter in color than the belt.
*Begins with a tail on the back of the belt, the top of this tail loops around the belt (with the loose webbing piece facing the wearer) and is stitched closed or is closed with two silver or black Chicago screws or flat rivets, with the flat side facing out.
*The tail hangs to roughly the center of the thigh, though it may be as short as five or six inches below the belt if preferred, it has another loop at this end (single or double roll) with a stitch at the top of the loop to keep it closed (silver or black Chicago screws my also be used to close the loop with or without the stitching).
*Next there is a single long length of webbing (or two pieces split in half if the split is hidden within the lower tail loop) that wrap around either side of the body, they are threaded through a silver roll-pin buckle (one on each side), and the end goes up behind or between a strap of approximatly2 inch (5 cm) light or medium gray webbing.
*This new lighter-colored webbing wraps around the top of the roll-pin buckle, feeds through the lower slot of an L-shaped silver paddle, and then wraps around the belt. It is closed with a frame of box-shaped stitching with an X through the center of it and two black or silver Chicago screws or rivets with the flat side facing out.
* Two more Chicago screws or rivets are placed in the center of the X stitch.

*Alternatively, the belt hang strap may be made of the same charcoal gray webbing as the rest of the harness and may be one piece (with the harness) or two separate pieces (the strap and the harness separate). It still has the same box and X stitch and screws/rivets.
*The L-shaped paddles are solid silver in color.
*Each paddle has a dot hole in the upper corner that faces toward the belt buckle, a carved pill-shaped slot to the opposite side of the aforementioned hole (at the longest point of the "L"), and another cut slot at the bottom where the harness strap is fed through.
*The paddles attach to the front most straps of the harness over the belt with to silver or black Chicago screws or rivets with the flat side facing out, and hang roughly an inch or two from the top of the belt.
*Approximately 2.5 inch pull tab strip of black webbing with two lines of contrasting gray stitching or a strip of the same length of gray webbing with two lines of matching gray stitching are optionally allowed on the small slots of the longest end of the L-shaped paddles and on the small slots of the harness-mounted roll-pin buckles. Also optionally, the paddles may have a slight backward bend on the longest end of the paddles.
Harness example 1: https://ibb.co/ju5t3m
Harness example 2: https://ibb.co/ksEn4p

Leg Flare Holster
*A length of approximately 2 inch (5 cm) gunmetal or black webbing that wraps around the leg and closes in the back with a piece of black Velcro.
*On the front of the strap, slightly off to the outside of the leg, are five loops of the same webbing.
*Within each loop is one metal, plastic of wood flare with accurate detailing that are silver in color.
*The flare holster can be worn on either the right or left leg, at the knee or below, or on the upper calf.
Leg holster example: https://ibb.co/djzLPp

Boots
*There are two styles of boots acceptable for generic Resistance X-wing pilot costumes and they are as follows...
(A) A pair of black mucker boots that are about lower calf length. A rubber foot with accurate ribbing and dot details with a black cloth or vinyl calf. There should be no visible buckles, laces or zippers, and any visible logos should be removed if possible.
(B) Black rubber five-buckle overboots with ribbing and black-painted metal buckles, and (optionally) a red rubber band at the top of the shaft.
*A strip of smooth black rubber or vinyl goes down the front center of the boot, hiding most of the metal buckles.
*The strip has ten slits cut into the sides of it, five on each side, that the buckles slip through. This style of boot should always be worn the pants pulled down over the shaft.
Boots example: https://ibb.co/fFDQqU

Optional Items
The applicant must have at least one of the following items…

Gloves
Black leather or pleather police-style gloves with a mid-length cuff. The cuff has three panels going vertically down the front of it, a large panel and a thin panel on the top of the hand, a single panel down each finger, and either one or two panels on the thumb. There is a thick strap around the wrist that is secured down with Velcro.
Gloves example: https://ibb.co/mNj9H9


Helmet
A Resistance X-wing pilot-style helmet with an amber visor, accurate details and greeblies, with an appropriate paint scheme. The interior edge lining of the helmet is black (TFA) or beige/light brown (TLJ). Hasbro Black Series Poe Dameron helmets are acceptable with the following modifications: 1) fill in the thumb tab behind the battery compartment. 2) Repaint the microphone a metallic silver color. 3) Add a black wire to the microphone that reaches from the bottom outside corner of the microphone tip to the base “barrel”. 4) Remove the plastic black “legs” from the back cord black greeblie and add a real black cord. 5) Fill in the “sliced onion” detail on the right cheek if it is not being used as part of the paint scheme-- if it is being used as part of the paint scheme it must be painted a different color than the base color of the helmet.
No real world text or logos may be visible on the helmet.

Blaster & Holster
A Glie-44 blaster pistol with accurate details and paint application. This should be paired with a smoke gray holster with accurate details and that hooks onto the belt with a strip of 2 inch (5 cm) silver-gray webbing. It should hang just below the belt with no leg strap (TFA) or can hang a couple inches lower with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) silver-gray leg strap and a silver metal slide on the front of the strap (TLJ).
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BigFatCat (Geoff Hawley)
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought there was a move to deliver more descriptive and illustrated standards?

I've previous aired my views on components of this costume, with a number of supporting images and I now read areas that are worded in such a way as to not accommodate proven screen accurate details. I have no problem making a costume standard so it's accessible but not at the cost of removing provable accurate details from the standard. This says yes, you can make the costume but you can't make it accurate. Sorry for wanting to look like it is on screen.
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Blue Banshee Leader (Alex Buirch)
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kylo Ren wrote:
Great start however I feel this is way to detailed. I think some of these items need to be removed or some leniency given. Just for transparency sake id like to see it a taste more like this. With a lot more removed or less detailed as I think this is still way way to wordy. If I was an applicant I would find this very confusing. A wall of text is no fun to read for anyone judges and applicants alike. Sorry If I sound harsh on this I know you put a lot of work into it. However I (for judging sake) like to look on the side of getting folks approved. I worry this may turn some folks away.


Thanks for the response. I think, though, that there is already plenty of leniency given in the standards proposed here. There are plenty of "you can do it this way, or you can do it this way" in the standards, and parts that are described in a more basic fashion and then "or, you can do it in this more accurate way". The proposed standards also seemed to be fairly easy to read already, at least I thought.

Some things can be described with pictures, that's true, rather than writing them all out... But I still feel that having clear text explaining the parts is a good idea and leaves no questions about what someone may or may not see in any particular image.

A few things you mentioned, though... The material, I think that the description of the texture needs to stay. People shouldn't be making the coveralls out of cotton or something, it wont have the right look at all. I'm not saying that the applicant needs to have one particular kind of material, but it definitely needs to be a heavier material with a heavy, grainy texture.

Gloves should remain required, not optional. They can be optional for the briefing room version, sure, but for the full-suited version an applicant should definitely have gloves.

I still believe that the belt needs to be listed as a PLCE belt. While a replica belt should be perfectly acceptable, saying that it's a PLCE belt gives people something to look at, something to look up and see what their belt should ideally look like.

The material that attaches the "vest buckle" to the vest needs to remain in the standards. People shouldn't submit this piece made out of webbing or flat cotton or something, and if it's not in the standards then people will be able to use whatever they want for this piece... Which kind of defeats the purpose of a costume standard, y'know?

Either way, I think these standards have pretty much died, anyway. The new RLSC CO seems to have taken a blaster to these, and for reasons that are very clear to me. So... Razz
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