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TROS:General Leia Organa Costume Discussion/Reference Thread

 
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ibejedi (Heather Tanner)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 11:27 am    Post subject: TROS:General Leia Organa Costume Discussion/Reference Thread Reply with quote

This thread is for all things TROS General Leia Organa related! We'd like to gather references and resources in a central location to help with both people's builds and costume standard creation. Once the blue ray has been released and high resolution screen caps are available, I'm sure we'll be able to add to the resources here.

NOTE -- as I make edits, I'll indicate in colors. I realized I made a mistake originally about the belts, and I've corrected it below in blue (1/14/20)

At this time, this is a discussion of ONLY General Leia's "main" costume for the film -- not the flashback scene or ending shot.

One thing that is unique to this discussion and this costume is that while a physical costume exists (and has been displayed multiple places), by all accounts it never actually appeared on film. Michael Kaplan (costume designer) has been quoted in multiple places stating that he designed and constructed the costume (to Carrie's measurements Sad ) and then gave it to the digital effects team so that her footage could be "dressed" in it. This will need to be considered as we get more footage and images from the film and especially in regards to fabric color. I will link the relevant articles at the bottom.

Now, as for the discussion, here are things that will be extremely helpful to add:
-Reference images (along with their source)
-Any possible identified costume pieces (gloves, boots, greebs)
-Sourcing for materials, patterns, costume bits

I have started an album on Imgur with reference images which can be found here: https://imgur.com/a/AMngqns

Below are a few screen shots - there haven't been any publicity or trading card shots released yet that I've seen:









And these are photos from the LFL press event held the first week of December where Leia's costume was displayed (I am trying to track down the source where I found them originally):













Myself and other RL members had a chance to see the costume in person when it was displayed during the afterparty at the premiere for The Rise of Skywalker on 12/16/19. The lighting was awful for photos! I have included some of mine in the Imgur album above. However, having seen it in person, I can confirm that the photos from the press event represent the color as I saw it very accurately.

This is the costume card from the display at the premiere: *SPOILER ALERT*



Based on observations and this card, the costume appears to consist of the following:

Base Costume Elements:
Vest/Waistcoat
Shirt
Pants
Belt/Buckle
Shoes

Accessories:
Two stone ring worn on right hand
Large signet/stone ring worn on left hand
Multi-Wire cuff bracelet worn on right wrist
Earrings/Ear Cuffs

My observations are listed below -- this is not "costume standard" wording, just elements and items I noticed.

Vest/Waistcoat:
--Per the display card it is a "Heavy silk waistcoat"
--Color in person and on film appears to be a medium-dark to dark purple -- a blue/violet/cool toned purple. (However in one of the linked interviews, Michael Kaplan refers to it as "blue")
--Fabric has both vertical and horizontal stitched lines over the entire surface, in rectangle shapes. The rectangles appeared in person to be approximately 3/4" wide by 2" tall
--Viewing close up, and when I zoom in on one of my photos, it almost seems the horizontal lines might be "pintucked", and the vertical lines stitched. Pintucked meaning similar to diamond shaped pintuck fabric often used for curtains or other home decor.
--Viewed up close, the fabric has a definite texture/weave -- it seemed like a twill or herringbone to me.
--Fabric had a matte or sanded appearance - not shiny
--Hard to tell the thickness for sure, but the collar and front opening appear to be faced with matching fabric. One photo I have seen shows that the inside is possibly lined with a different fabric.
--Hem appeared to be about 1 3/4"
--Vest is ankle-length, same or slightly longer than the pants, with an open front, shoulder width sleeves and a standing collar.
--Collar appears to be one piece in front of the shoulder seams, and possibly two piece behind the shoulder seams, with a central back seam as well

Close up photos of fabric/weave (taken at premiere):





Screen grab photo with some of the construction details highlighted:



Shirt:
--Display card states "Gauze cotton blouse"
--All reference photos indicate it being a loose gauze fabric, possibly double layered, and cut on the bias.
--Sleeves are 3/4" length, slightly bunched/gathered around the elbow area, but fitted close to arm.
--Shirt appears to have a slight cowl neckline, slightly wider than the opening of the vest
--Shirt length appears to be about mid-hip length -- ending slightly above the crotch.
--Per Michael Kaplan the color is "bordeaux". It is definitely in the "red/warm" range of magenta or purple.

Pants:
--Display card states "Cotton wide-legged trousers"
--Pants are a similar, but not an exact color match to the shirt -- a few shades darker than the shirt but same color family
--Pants fabric does not appear to have any visible weave or pattern. Matte finish.
--Pants are wide legged, and just below ankle length, not showing much of the footwear
--Pants are wide-legged enough to appear as possibly being a skirt/dress

Belt/Buckle:
--The buckle of the belt is the same size and shape as the buckle for the TFA Leia costume (jumpsuit), but in a gold or brass color and a hammered texture
--There appears to be two separate belts, one worn above the other, that consist of a central leather piece and metal links.
--The leather piece in the middle of each belt is about 1" wide (based on dimensions from the TFA Leia buckle", medium brown color, with brown top stitching on the edges. The leather portion ends at the edges of the buckle, and is woven over posts in the 3 verticle openings of the buckle.
--The metal pieces are connected to each other on the long ends,forming an evenly spaced "chain" effect, that extends at least as far as the edges of the vest. The top and bottom belt links are not attached to each other, but remain separate elements.
--The metal part of the belt appears to possibly be made of something similar to "flat slide buckles", connected to each other with metal sheet fastenings. They appear slightly taller than the leather section of the belt, possibly about 1.5" inches tall

Close up belt photos from premiere (these were taken with flash):







Image of a "Flat slide buckle" that seems similar to the belt "links":



Shoes:
I have not seen any photos that show the shoes worn with this costume. Per the card on display they are "leather boots", but I myself could not see the shoes when I saw it in person, as the pants are ankle length or below; as well as the lighting being very dark and that portion of the costume being behind plexiglass.

Jewelry:
All of the jewelry worn in the film is from either TFA or TLJ; as such I will not post full descriptions here. More info can be found in the standard that is referenced for the item.
Two stone ring (Right Hand) -- Identical to the one worn in both TFA and TLJ
Signet/Stone ring (Left Hand) and Multi-Wire Cuff Bracelet -- Identical to the ones worn in The Last Jedi -- Raddus Bridge costume
Earrings/Ear Cuffs -- Identiical to the ones worn in TLJ (I have to go back and research if they are the Raddus Bridge or Crait ones)

HAIR!!
Leia's hairstyle seems to be similar to her TLJ hairstyle -- she wears a twist over the top of her head (a "mourning braid", according to the TLJ Visual Guide") and her hair is swept back off of her face. However, it is not teased into a bouffant, and the top braid/twist seems to sweep back into two crossed sections on the back of her head, that feed into two smoothly twisted buns at the base of her neck. Hair is brown, with more grey than in TLJ, particularly at her crown and sides.

Back of head:



Front of head:



******

And with that -- I've got to stop for now. I will add more to this in the next day or two -- it's very late here as I post this, but I know many have been anxiously awaiting this post. Feel free to add your comments, links, photos, etc. below. As we go on, we may add some of those to the main post. I will be adding all of my additional information to this initial post.

Links/Sources/Add'l Info:
Links to Michael Kaplan Interviews:
https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/how-michael-kaplan-costumed-700-creatures-rise-skywalker-1264308
https://fashionista.com/2019/12/star-wars-the-rise-of-skywalker-costumes

This is a good article talking with the V/X team about the process of bringing Leia into TROS (touches on some of the costume ideas): https://www.ign.com/articles/2020/01/07/star-wars-the-rise-of-skywalker-carrie-fisher-scenes

Another article interviewing the V/X team that touches a bit on the costume elements of reusing the footage of Leia (as well as some info about the *SPOILERS* flashback scene): https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/star-wars-the-rise-of-skywalker-visual-effects-secrets-revealed-200000081.html
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Heather "ibejedi"
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Now or Never Creations and Cosplay: https://www.facebook.com/nowornever2016

Stay afraid, but do it anyway. What's important is the action. You don't have to wait to be confident. Just do it and eventually the confidence will follow. - Carrie Fisher


Last edited by ibejedi (Heather Tanner) on Tue Jan 14, 2020 10:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it helps, my (poorly-lit) photos from the premier are in an album here.

One detail that a bunch of us were staring at is that she appears to have a narrow box-pleat in the coat down the side-seam under the arm, which gives it more fullness when she moves. It looks like the front has princess seams (two panels each side) and the back had several seams/panels as well (I don't remember how many).

In person, the fabric color looked pretty charcoal, but it was in really blue, dim lighting, so it's hard to tell.
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RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all this hard work, Heather! Excellent job! Smile


A couple of things to add that may help people with search terms:

-The shirt/tunic looks like it is a double gauze specifically. It has the box-like pattern you get from the stitching visible on the sleeve. Etsy may actually be a good place to look for this, there are a ton of vendors selling it there and the best price/most color variety I found for the double gauze I got for Lyra was on Etsy. It may end up being a difficult color to match, but white is readily available and it takes dye really, really well.

-Vest collar appears to be an "all in one collar". Kenneth King has a video on the Threads YouTube explaining the theory behind it and how to pattern. The collars he makes there are shaped slightly differently, but it may be helpful for people to watch before patterning.

Here's the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bm2GeA27Nzc

Here's Threads article on the topic:
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2018/06/22/drafting-one-collars

- The earrings look like the Crait version- they don't have the little bit that curves in at the front that the Raddus Bridge ones do. Smile
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 8:14 pm    Post subject: TROS Leia shirt material Reply with quote

Question: Should we be going for costume accurate or screen accurate? My tendency is to go screen accurate. (i.e. - Star Trek Next Gen blue uniforms are actually more green in person, but appear blue on screen.)

But here are a bunch of Etsy links to a variety of colors and fabric weave. There are other websites with material options as well. But what do you think looks best here?

See links posted below.

WHICH OPTION LOOKS BEST TO YOU? A,B,C,D,E,F?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am forum posting illiterate! I can never post links or photos properly! HELP.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

doinit4carrie wrote:
I am forum posting illiterate! I can never post links or photos properly! HELP.


I tried editing your post to see if I could get the links to work, and apparently not so much. So I'll try just adding them here from scratch.

These are the same listings Amy added above:

Option A, Choose "mauve":



https://www.etsy.com/listing/530507194/double-gauze-fabric-muslin-fabric-muslin?

Option B, Choose 15 or 16:



https://www.etsy.com/listing/615180323/1-yard-meter-double-gauze-fabric-pure?

Option C, I think you meant "Vintage Red" not "Red"? Red is super bright and saturated.



https://www.etsy.com/listing/462833884/pashmina-washing-gauze-fabric-muslin?

Option D, would need to be overdyed darker:



https://www.etsy.com/listing/255442712/double-gauze-fabric-japanese-fabric?

Option E, Needs Dye:



https://www.etsy.com/listing/727009292/shannon-embrace-double-gauze-solid?

Option F:



https://www.etsy.com/listing/739747317/bordeaux-double-gauze-fabric-premium?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 10:32 pm    Post subject: Re: TROS Leia shirt material Reply with quote

doinit4carrie wrote:
Question: Should we be going for costume accurate or screen accurate? My tendency is to go screen accurate. (i.e. - Star Trek Next Gen blue uniforms are actually more green in person, but appear blue on screen.)


I think because the costume was modified purposefully with CGI, we should stick with screen appearance where there are conflicts between the costume as it appears in the movie and the touring costume.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for fixing that! I agree we should go with screen appearance.

Could you also please give me instructions on posting links and photos? I would like to share as I find things.

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 2:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

doinit4carrie wrote:
Thank you for fixing that! I agree we should go with screen appearance.

Could you also please give me instructions on posting links and photos? I would like to share as I find things.

Thanks!


Honestly, I reposted because I couldn't find anything wrong in the code on your original post. Let's keep this thread focused on the Leia discussion. I'll try and get a tutorial for using BB-Code up in another area and send you the link soon.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started looking at patterns and material today. Didn't find much. I found this linen like cotton which could work for the pants if the blouse material is a little lighter. I also found these 2 patterns for the pants. What do you think?
(I'm now hosting my pics on Flickr, so these are the links)

[url]https://www.flickr.com/gp/amyyoungspix/g0Vy91[/url]
[url]https://www.flickr.com/gp/amyyoungspix/0c3GTh[/url]
[url]https://www.flickr.com/gp/amyyoungspix/1wc45S[/url]
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ibejedi (Heather Tanner)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I updated the original post with a correction about dimensions on the belt elements. I will mostly make changes there and indicate with color, for easy reference Smile
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ibejedi wrote:
I updated the original post with a correction about dimensions on the belt elements. I will mostly make changes there and indicate with color, for easy reference Smile


Heather please use comments instead. We don't get notifications of edits. Thank you!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bunching/gathering you mentioned at the elbow of the tunic look like it may be ruching. JenEyre's picture here shows it pretty well.




There also looks like there is some pleating on the waistcoat- they can be seen in these pictures from Jen's album:











Jen has a good picture of the waistcoat lining you mentioned. It looks like a grosgrain?



I also noticed there is a split on the side seam in this picture from her album:



And here's a great back reference to add to what you have:


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