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Hoth Leia for Norway
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2020 9:47 pm    Post subject: Hoth Leia for Norway Reply with quote

Coming up this March some friends and I are meeting up with Blizzard Force in Finse, Norway to check out the Hoth filming site. I decided that instead of constructing a Snowie, I'd put together a Hoth Leia. With that in mind, I am trying my best to make this a warm costume, and therefore may never wear it for regular events unless they're outdoors!



I really appreciate all the other threads on Hoth Leia. They have been a great resource. I've already gotten quite a way, so I figured I need to post something. Also, I may be overly wordy because I appreciated lots of details in other posts.

Jumpsuit
I based this on the Kwik Sew Pattern 2588 which I ordered from Ebay. I modified it to get the yoke seams and princess seams with piping. For material I ordered white Hi-Count Taslan Nylon DWR from Seattle Fabrics. I'm planning on using two layers of the Taslan and sandwiching a cotton batting in between the two layers. I'm going for warmth, and as this is an all-white costume, hoping to cut down on the see-through factor at the same time. Because I'm using essentially double the amount needed, I ordered about 9 yards of the Taslan, and so far I've got just over a yard left.

For the piping I made my own 1.5" bias tape from the Taslan (so I planned a little extra material for this purpose). I used a cording foot for my machine and sandwiched paracord between the bias tape. This made it extremely easy to make my cording an exact match to the jumpsuit. I actually just used this same technique to make several hundred feet of piping for my red invasion Amidala, so this was a quick an easy project.

I did make a mock-up of my patterns before actually cutting any of the Taslan since I added the yoke seam to my existing pattern.



Mock-up of the front pressed seams. At the time I was planning on putting in darts, but I ended up incorporating the darts into the princess seams since they sat at about the same spot on the bust.


Some views of the back pressed seam with the mock-up. The second image I modified the seam slightly to add more of a point.

I designed and put in the princess seams, and ended up taking a dart of material out to fit it better around the bust. (The Kwik Sew pattern is quite relaxed in the area.) I went ahead and sandwiched the cording between the two pieces and stitched it together. I didn't add any of the extra seams to the liner, but did need to add a bust to the front pieces. Once the liner was done I cut out the batting, and sandwiched it between the outer layer and liner. I serged the liner and batting together on the edges to make things a little easier to line up. I also failed to take any photos of this whole process.

Suddenly I had a nice vest, and moved on to the sleeves. The sleeves I actually determined were two separate pieces when looking at photos of Leia. There appears to be a smaller section on the armpit with seam on the sleeve lining up with the princess seam/cording seam on the front and back.

Sorry, this image is bad as its a photo of my TV as I was watching Empire Strikes Back. Haha.

Anyway, I went ahead and designed the sleeve, which took waaay too long. It involved realizing my shoulder seam was too low, so I had to move that up, then lengthen the sleeve... anyway, I'm not a fan of sleeves! My sandwiching technique is complicating things because I have to account for more room so things aren't too tight. Also, I determined I needed to stitch all the pill-pads on before closing the sleeves. On to designing those!
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2020 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your patterns are looking great so far! I can't wait to see more. Leia Buns
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2020 2:39 pm    Post subject: Photo Overload Reply with quote

Okay here are some photos of my finished tunic portion.





Now here's some photos of the pill-patches on the sleeves.




I designed the pill shapes then cut out the Taslan and sandwiched batting in between. Once again I used my cording foot to add the piping along the edges, then just turned them right side out. I then topstitched the swirly design. As I mentioned, I made my sleeves with two separate pieces, a larger shoulder portion, and a smaller armpit portion. I centered the shoulder pill pad just slightly down from the seam, and I centered the forearm pill pad as well. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be more under the elbow, but it looked to me like they are lined up with each other.

As I put the sleeves on and put the wrist hem where I liked it, I'm realizing my forearm pad is about 3 inches away from the hem. That probably means I need to either move the pad about an inch, or remake a new pad that's about an inch longer. Thoughts?

I also topstitched the three lines over the elbow. I honestly missed this little detail, so I'm glad it was on the CRL! I topstitched these before stitching the final seam to close the sleeves, and was able to line up the seams quite nicely.

As for the bodice, I haven't added the swirly designs under the princess seams yet. I wanted to wait until I had stitched it to the pants portion to know how much space I had.
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2020 5:55 pm    Post subject: Wrist communicator Reply with quote

On to the fun 3D print items!
I ordered the wrist communicator and rank badge from PrintedPropz on Etsy. They need a little more finishing and paint, but for now I'm using them to get proper sizing while I complete my soft parts.


This photo shows the location of the wrist communicator, and also is a good example of where the sleeve seam is.



This is my wrist communicator. I flipped it over and countersunk spots on the back where I glued some 10mm rare earth magnets. I used E600 to glue them in, and I'll be stitching magnets into the left forearm pill pad. I labeled the sides of the magnets just to make it easier for me to line them up when I start sewing.


Finally, a shot of it sitting on my unfinished sleeve. I'm waiting to see if my location for the pill pads are in the correct position before I start stitching magnets on.
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2020 6:11 pm    Post subject: The Legs! Reply with quote

So far I've only talked about the bodice of this outfit. It is, however, a jumpsuit! Honestly I struggled with this a bit because this material has no stretch at all. And it is a fairly fitted jumpsuit. I realized I needed a little extra room in the back so I can sit down and bend over. How have people approached this problem in the past?

Anyway, I did a bunch of mock-ups, and finally cut out my material and batting and stitched it all together.


Pants from the mock-up material with my completed tunic on top. Pants fit with a very high waist, but the tunic is still pretty baggy. I also did lots of sitting tests to make sure I could still sit!




These three images are of the completed pants of the Taslan material and batting. I tried to account for the batting needing more space. However, when I first finished them they were a little tight. That freaked me out for a minute, and I was trying to figure out how I was going to add more material to it. However, I was able to let the side seams out a bit, and it ended up fitting just fine. (Still makes me nervous because I can't gain any weight!)


I went ahead and stitched legs to the bodice and added a zipper!! It's finally coming together and starting to look like something.
The back is still pretty baggy, though. This is as far as I got last night, and I'm thinking I need to go back and take in the back of the bodice. I'm toying with adding an elastic to the back bodice to account for sitting/bending movement. Thoughts?

Thanks for your feedback!

Sent from my iPhone
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your progress is looking great so far. Very Happy
The trouble with jumpsuits in a non-stretch material is that you can't avoid bagginess in the back/bottom if you want to be able to sit, much less crouch. Of course, you can get a little stretch by cutting everything on the bias, but that's it.

As for the lower pill pad, I'd say you could probably make it a tad larger and also lower it a little on the arm. That way it should still look proportional and sit closer to the wrist.

Remember the belt will also help gather things, so that might be enough.
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2020 11:40 pm    Post subject: Jumpsuit modifications Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice!

Okay. Based on this exhibit photo, I decided the proportions of my forearm pad is the right size.





I went ahead and added my little rare earth 10mm magnets to the pad, and now it matches the corresponding magnets on the comm pad. Works like a charm. I did, however, decide to move both pads down about 1 inch, and now they're both about 1.5 inches from the wrist seam.



I also took in the center back seam on the tunic about 2 inches. Still a little baggy, but it's much better, and it seems to be just about right for sitting. Besides, pretty sure the vest will cover this part anyway. Wink

Okay, on to collar construction. Cording between both front pieces, and on the top. Pretty simple except my silly sewing machine kept binding. I don't think it liked trying to sew through all those layers.





I wasn't sure if the cording actually went all the way down in the center, but it's not specified in the CRLs. Honestly, it's a little hard to see stuff in the reference photos with the white on white.



I also went ahead and designed the thigh pads.







They could possibly be longer? But the lines were pretty proportional.

So now I just need to add the placket over the zipper, and the belt. Plus finish all my seams and top stitching. Not much more to do unless I need to change the size of my thigh pads.
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think by the time you put your jacket over the jumpsuit, the patch length will look nice.

You really are making great progress on this!
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VeroLeia94 ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2020 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you're doing a great job
Congratulations Smile
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Progress is looking great! Very Happy Yes, perhaps they could be a tad longer, but I think they are within acceptable. (And you might just be taller than Carrie thus making things seem a little out of proportion on you). Wink
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abrookebrown24 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2020 3:08 am    Post subject: Finishing up the jumpsuit Reply with quote

Thanks so much ladies! Yeah I definitely have a couple of inches on Carrie. I appreciate the feedback. Well I've made some more progress.

First up, I finished the major portion of the jumpsuit.




This basically involved finishing up all the hemming, adding the placket over the zipper, and making the belt. I nearly forgot, but I added the little swirly details to the bodice. I'm glad I waited to do these last in order to get the proportions correct, but trying to move the whole jumpsuit around the machine was a pain!

The placket and belt were made of two layers of Taslan material, with batting in between. I made two belt loops from left over bias tape, and stitched them on the side seams. Now what's left over is some minor hand stitching to add clasps, etc to the collar and belt. I'll probably put some snaps on the placket just to keep it from flapping open. But I think it turned out pretty good!

Believe it or not, I'm basically done with the vest as well. This was an interesting one. The pattern itself wasn't very complicated, but knowing me, I made this way more complicated than it needed to be. Haha. For some reason I decided to do goose down filler in the bottom portion because I'm still going for warmth. The hardest part of this was designing the squares on the bottom portion of the vest. I didn't get them perfectly matched up, but even Leia's isn't perfect. I am, however, concerned that I made them too small. Instead of three squares, I've got more like 3.75 or 4. I guess that's where the being taller than Carrie thing comes in. Wink




I drew the squares on with this washable blue marking pen, but turns out it smeared a lot. Hence all the blue. I actually tossed it in the washing machine which got rid of the blue, and helped with all the stray feathers poking out. I also added the padded collar. Then I threw it all together to see how it looked.






I took a photo from behind just to see how the vest fell in the back. I need to remove some down from the collar because it's much puffier than it should be. Otherwise I just need to add the rank badge and I think I'm done with the vest.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 6:05 pm    Post subject: Finishing up details Reply with quote

Okay I think I've officially finished everything on both the jumpsuit and vest. The jumpsuit I added snaps, etc to the collar, placket, and belt.

The vest I removed some of the down filler and ironed the collar to make it lay a little more flat. I also added the faux pocket flaps on the front by hemming a single layer of satin material and stitching it to the waist area of the vest. I might go back and add some hidden pockets to the inside of the vest in the future because who doesn't like pockets?

I sewed on the rank badge holder, but I decided to add a few magnets to the rank badge itself to prevent it from slipping. So I guess I'm not entirely finished with the vest, but close enough? I also purchased some nice white leather gloves to pair with the outfit.






Next activity is to construct the boots. I had considered just making boot covers so I didn't have to pack an entire new set of boots. However, It's going to be much easier, and look a lot better if I use a pair of shoes as a base, and cover it.

I ordered these ankle boots from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XCPGJCF/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_R-foEbEAP9NQK

I then plan to use some gray pleather to cover the top of the shoe. So we'll see how that goes.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 6:21 pm    Post subject: Leia Hair Reply with quote

Oh yes, I've also been experimenting with the hair. I'm very blonde, and I suppose I could be a blonde Leia.




However, I don't think my extensions are quite long enough to pull this off with my natural hair. It's a fun hair style, though!




I started experimenting with a wig. This is actually the Leia wig from Arda. While this is a nice long wig, it's not a lace-front. Because this style requires pulling the hair back, you can really tell it's a wig in the front. Also, this wig is probably a little too thick for these braids. So I guess I'll just save this if I ever decide to make a Senatorial Leia. I do NOT recommend this wig for Leia's braided crown hairstyle.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your progress looks fantastic. Very Happy It's coming along nicely.

And yeah, making actual pockets sounds like a great plan; we all love having pockets in our costumes. Wink

Are you covering the entire shoe or painting the visible parts? (Or a mix?) Best of luck with it.

And yeah, pulled back hair styles doesn't work well with wigs that aren't lace fronts, but you do pull off the brown quite well. Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much for the feedback! You guys are awesome!!

As for the boots, I plan on completely covering the boot so I don't have to try to match paint colors. Here's some quick progress photos.
Once I received my boots from Amazon, I made a duct tape pattern over my jumpsuit. Using this I designed the boots, did a quick fabric mock-up, then cut out the pleather. I purchased two different types of pleather from JoAnn's. They were back in the upholstery section of the store, and I chose based on color, and the lighter gray had more of a leather backing. I did the purely so my generic little sewing machine could get through it. Haha.
The body was made from three separate pieces (two side, one tongue). I stitched them all together, then glued the base over my shoe using barge cement. I then cut one-inch strips of the darker pleather, and measured out three for each shoe.




I'm not really certain how to properly close the shoe without putting a zipper somewhere. I may do some combination of sewing and Velcro to close the shoe.




The rank badge and communicator also got a little love. There were some visible 3D print lines, so I covered them with Bondo glazing putty, sanded, sprayed with filler primer, and painted.


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