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Cloud City Leia Build Thread
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antoa ()
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 6:14 am    Post subject: Cloud City Leia Build Thread Reply with quote

I started this project a few months back and I wanted to finally start a build thread.

I have this pattern to use as a base for the tunic and pants:

New Look Sewing Pattern 6602 Misses Dresses, Size A (S-M-L-XL-XXL)
https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/brands/new-look/new-look-pattern-6602-misses-dresses/

I will use view C with sleeves and a zipper or hooks at the shoulder(instead of buttons) and the pants with the bands added at the ankle.

For the fabric I have the Casa Collection Crepe fabric (for the tunic, belt and pants - 10 yds) and the Casa Collection Solid Chiffon fabric (for the cape lining - 5 yds), both in Chili Oil

https://www.joann.com/casa-collection-crepe-many-colors/16025868.html

https://www.joann.com/casa-collection-chiffon-many-colors/16023996.html

For the copper I trim I got 3 spools of Kreinik Heavy (#32) Braid in “021 - Copper“

http://www.kreinik.com/shops/Heavy-32-Braid-5m.html

For the cape, I am using the Spoonflower fabric for embroidery on Poly Crepe de Chine
https://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/5978487-princess-cloud-embroidery-by-princess_seams

For the embroidery I am using DMC threads colors:

Dusty rose - 3778
Rust Red - 400
Dark burgundy - 3857
Dark brown - 801
Butter Cream - 746
Light yellow - 745

Shadow stitch for everything but the Light Yellow, which is a stem stitch.

I was provided a rough ‘map’ of the color placement from a member of the Bun Squad Facebook Group who I was working on the updated standards. From that I pulled together this rough guide for myself with a photo of my spoonflower fabric



I hope to make a neater ‘map’ soon to share.

Here is my first finished panel:






And for those wondering what the back of a shadow stitch looks like,


I can go more into detail about the embroidery in a future post if people want tips. I like to pass on what I’ve learned, so people might not have to make the same mistakes I did.

The only thing I am missing is the material for the yoke of the cape, which might be hard to match, and the shoes. I plan on going to a local bridal shop with a fabric swatch and getting a pair of custom dyed ballet flats.


Last edited by antoa () on Tue Jan 28, 2020 1:25 am; edited 1 time in total
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow!

I think your progress on the embroidery and the colors are excellent. Very Happy Very beautifully done!

And please share more about what you learned embroidering; we can always use more pointers.

We also look forward to seeing a cleaned up version of your color guide; that would undoubtedly be a great help to others.
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antoa ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanted to share the pictures I took of my completed embroidery panel with the tunic and lining fabric

The lining is underneath, tunic fabric is next to it.






All the fabric


And a close up of the tunic fabric next to the rust red embroidery that it should match per the CRLs



I also got shoes. I originally was going to get the satin ones and have them dyed, but that turned out to be really expensive. Instead I am going to cover them with the tunic fabric and Modge Podge. I found this tutorial that looks pretty straight forward

https://www.practicallyfunctional.com/customize-your-shoes-with-mod-podge/

These are the shoes I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VBVSFQ/

Since I am covering them, I just got the neutral colored ones since they were the least expensive. I didn’t want black or a dark color in case it showed through the fabric. The shoes are really comfortable.
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice find on the tutorial and your embroidery is stunning. Beautiful stitches!
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LeiaAurora ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is coming along beautifully, Amanda! Can't wait to see the finished result. Great job!
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking great! Mr. Green Very nice shadow stitching.
You've got this!
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AlCeRey ()
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm gearing up to start my own Bespin gown and found your thread and I've got to say WOW your embroidery work is absolutely gorgeous! Surprised
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antoa ()
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Unfortunately due to Celebration costume builds, this one has been on hold.

My first tip for the embroidery is to use a hoop with a stand. I hurt my wrist doing ten first panel because of holding the hoop with my wrist at a weird angle.

I also recommend wrapping you inner hoop - I used some bias tape that I had on hand. The fabric is so thin that it is difficult to keep the tension in the hoop if you don’t have it wrapped. I personally am not using interfacing, but I like to live (or embroider) dangerously.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great advice, antoa. Very Happy Keep on embroidering dangerously.
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antoa ()
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2019 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update.

I just finished the 3rd panel. I am really powering through this right now and I hope the finish the last 2 panel quicker than I have been going.



I actually tracked the time I spent on this panel and it was 120 hours and 38 minutes. Ugh.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 29, 2019 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done! Very Happy If it's any comfort to you, at least the two front repeats aren't full repeats as a little has been cut off of each side. But it'll probably still take many, many hours to do. XD
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antoa ()
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2019 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lora Skywalker wrote:
Well done! Very Happy If it's any comfort to you, at least the two front repeats aren't full repeats as a little has been cut off of each side. But it'll probably still take many, many hours to do. XD


Yeah, unfortunately I still embroidered the entire first panel.

I now have been commissioned to make the cape for a fellow member, but no embroidery (just the printed version), so I can have a practice run. I will probably make it before I do the last panel so I can save myself some embroidery.
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antoa ()
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello! I am back! Still working my embroidery - I am almost done with my 4th panel.

In the mean time I am making this same costume for a friend. She is just using the printed spoon flower fabric, so no embroidery.

I am so lucky to get this opportunity to do a test build of sorts.

Instead of making a new thread, I'll just include my updates here.

*note her fabric is much more red rather than rust, but it matches the spoon flower fabric beautifully*

Her fabric is the Joann's crepe in Cabernet (now sold out, I believe). They were out of the chiffon in that color, so I had to improvise. Someone on Facebook had a link to some curtains from Walmart that were sheer and seemed to be a good color. I ordered the largest one, which was 59x108 or 3 yds of a 59" wide fabric. Perfect! It's the red ones here:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-Marjorie-Sheer-Voile-Curtain-Panel/44434384?fbclid=IwAR02w2jNKCTzdQBgLiDpFPb4BmXanRrp6JbOQGVbxhHgX-tDBCBgS1VYea8

Fabric with the spoonflower print:


Fabric with the curtains for the cape lining


I am using the same pattern mentioned in my first post. View A is the correct length (my mock up was view C and it was too short), but I ignored the pockets, added side slits, made it less A-line, lengthened the sleeves and did a full lining (except sleeves) instead of just facing.

Here is the original mock up (for sizing - 6 inches was added):



I used the pants pattern included and the only thing I added was the cuff at the bottom. Since the future owner has larger feet, but I still wanted it fitted at the ankle, I opted to add a small tab on the inside that will close with a pants hook:




Here is the mock up of my yoke without the quilting:



The I took the main cape fabric and started draping and pleating right on my dress form until I was happy with how it sat. I will tidy up the spacing of the pleats before I sew it.




The arm hole will go here - I will cut out a small wedge just big enough to get the arms through.



And that's all I have for my mock ups. I am going to break up this update and put the final tunic and belt info in the next post.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That progress looks excellent. Very Happy

I think you should make the wedge rounded under the arm like a normal armscye. Smile Best of luck with both projects.
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antoa ()
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lora Skywalker wrote:
That progress looks excellent. Very Happy

I think you should make the wedge rounded under the arm like a normal armscye. Smile Best of luck with both projects.


Yeah, I realized that after seeing a behind the scenes picture Smile

Here is the update on the tunic and belt.

The tunic and pants were a straightforward sew.

The belt construction was a process. I wanted to make it sturdy enough so that it wouldn't crease. I have a waistline that is killer on waistbands, so it is a requirement for me.

Materials for the innards:
Pellon 926
Pellon 71F
Plastic boning in casing

I cut 2 layers of the 926 of the entire belt and 2 layers of the 71F for just the diamond. I fused the diamonds to each belt base.



Then I cut strips of the boning and spaced them out along the belt - % in the diamond and then 4 on each side along the belt




I sewed these down and trimmed the boning. I then placed the second piece on top so that the boning was sandwiched and sewed around the edge (careful of the boning)



Then I cut 2 belts from the fabric, adding seam allowances - I added 5/8", but sewed at 3/8" to accommodate the width of the innards - I would have been fine sewing at 1/2"

Fused interfacing to each piece.



Then I sewed it, leaving the bottom part of the diamond open and both ends. Trimmed seams and corners, turned and pressed.

Then I unceremoniously shoved the innards into the fabric - leaving the ends open helps with this because you can pull from the end instead of pushing.



Then I folded in the raw edges on the bottom of the diamond and hand sewed it shut.

I also realized that I forgot to add the 1" to the fabric that I had added to the innards, so my fabric was a little short - I didn't want to cut off the last piece of boning, so I made little and caps and hand sewed them on. This actually gave it a really nice finished look.



So here is the state of the costume.



I just need to hem the sleeves and tunic and add the trim and all the hooks. I of course would like to have the friend try it on again before I hem it to make sure the length is good. In the mean time, I have moved onto the cape!

My first version of the yoke wasn't the best - it didn't have enough structure and I couldn't get the blue markings off! I was angry until I realized that it wasn't really up to my quality standards anyway, so I started version 2.

I fused interfacing to each fabric piece and use one layer of cotton batting.

I basted the batting onto the white fabric and then sewed the fabric and the lining together, making sure the batting was caught firmly in the seam and leaving the neck open. Then I trimmed the seam allowance and corners



Turned it right side and pressed:



Found my tailors chalk (and not the evil new fabric pencil that wouldn't come out) and lightly drew on the quilting lines - not sure if you will be able to see them in the picture.



Today I will do the quilting.

I also worked on tidying up the pleating on the cape - taking my rough draping and making the pleats even. I might need to loosen up the pleats in the back a bit - the mock up yoke wasn't talking correctly in the front - it was too open. That should be an easy fix.
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