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Joined: 01 Jun 2016
|Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2020 8:28 am Post subject: Drafting methods, basic blocks & fitting adjustments
|Some of the new films have costumes that it can be quite difficult to find commercial patterns for. Its sometimes less work to start from scratch.
Here is some info on making your own blocks, which is a basic pattern that's close to your body, you can then add design elements to, ie collars, cuffs, seam detail.
Just to note, if your body is hard to fit (like mine) you may need to tweak a block even if its directly made from your measurements.
Article on slopers ( in the UK we generally call them basic blocks)
Ready made blocks
Pattern Lab are a company who make a basic block for you, from your measurements and you print off a PDF pattern. (once its downloaded its yours to print as you want). I have a very hard to fit body and they did a pretty good job of mine. You do it all online, its all computerized so it's instant. I think i paid £8 so pretty reasonable. You can change the ease (how much room is in the garment) and the dart placement. They will be doing trousers and mens blocks soon.
Taking a pattern from an existing garment
Pattern companies make 'shells' or basic block patterns you can further adjust to fit your body.
Vogue 1003 : trousers
Tutorial from pattern lab
Traditional Pattern cutting/drafting books:
Winifred Aldrich Metric pattern cutting: is the book they still use on alot of UK degree fashion and pattern cutting courses, it teaches you to draft your own basic blocks from measurements. Then how to add design elements.
Designing Patterns :Martin Shoben
teaches you to draft your own basic blocks from measurements. Then how to add design elements. It also includes info on pressing and making up.
Designing patterns - Hilary Campbell
Drafting from measurements
[u]Less traditional Block making books[/u]
Pattern cutting primer
Making a block from a square grid in S, M, L it has a bit of drafting a bit of draping and design elements.
This book is good because you can create the basic blocks for making your own patterns by upscale onto grid paper and it also includes some core sewing info.
How to adapt and design sewing patterns
Create the perfect fit: Joi Mahon
This book is a less traditional approach, she uses a fitting shell pattern. Vogue 1004, but it also teaches you to apply the method to any pattern.
Fitting and pattern alteration (this book is pretty hardcore and has 3 different methods for fit alteration and alot of fit defects I've not found in other books.)
Perfect fitting: Sarah Veblen
Lots of toile making
Pattern fitting with confidence, Nancy Zieman:
Complete fitting guide:
Fitting adjustments can be applied to any pattern, or basic blocks.
Pictorial Guide for fitting adjustments, not the most technical, but gives you a good visual idea of fit issues:
Sleeve adjustment, to match shoulder adjustment:
High round back
Full bust adjustment: (you you need more room in the bust area)
How to alter bust height:
Adding a dart and bust adjustment to a pattern with no dart:
Having a dress form that mirrors or is similar to your body is important, especially if you have significant fit issues.
polystyrene with cover from ebay
How to make a duck tape dress form:
Dress form pattern from your measurements
They have a few options: Use over an existing dummy, custom from measurements, standard sizes. Men and women.
Padding a dressform to your shape.
Fabulous fit set
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|RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)
Joined: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
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|Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 11:19 pm Post subject:
|Adding this tutorial from Melly Sews:
How to Make a Bodice Pattern – Draft a Sloper of Block
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