Drafting methods, basic blocks & fitting adjustments

[tenebris (empathy)]

Some of the new films have costumes that it can be quite difficult to find commercial patterns for. It's sometimes less work to start from scratch.

Here is some info on making your own blocks, which is a basic pattern that's close to your body, you can then add design elements to, ie collars, cuffs, seam detail.

Just to note, if your body is hard to fit (like mine) you may need to tweak a block even if its directly made from your measurements.

Article on slopers (In the UK we generally call them basic blocks)
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/02/the-merits-of-a-basic-fitting-pattern

Ready made blocks

Pattern Lab are a company who make a basic block for you, from your measurements and you print off a PDF pattern. (once its downloaded its yours to print as you want). I have a very hard to fit body and they did a pretty good job of mine. You do it all online, its all computerized so it's instant. I think i paid £8 so pretty reasonable. You can change the ease (how much room is in the garment) and the dart placement. They will be doing trousers and men's blocks soon.
https://patternlab.london/home/

Taking a pattern from an existing garment
https://www.fabric.com/blog/sewing-101-pattern-drafting/?

Fitting Shells
Pattern companies make 'shells' or basic block patterns you can further adjust to fit your body.

Vogue 1004
https://www.johnlewis.com/vogue-women%27s-dress-sewing-pattern-1004/p1511346?

Vogue 1003: trousers

Butterick: B5628
https://www.mccall.com/b5628

Vintage Butterick:

1000
3003

McCalls: 2718
https://www.mccall.com/m2718

Measuring

Measuring yourself:
https://www.sewdirect.com/fit-help/

Tutorial from pattern lab:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGN1DcJ0qK0&feature=youtu.be

Traditional Pattern cutting/drafting books:

Winifred Aldrich Metric pattern cutting: is the book they still use on a lot of UK degree fashion and pattern cutting courses, it teaches you to draft your own basic blocks from measurements. Then how to add design elements.

Women's Wear Version:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Pattern-Cutting-Womens-Wear/dp/1444335057

Menswear version:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Menswear-Winifred-Apr-2011-Hardback/dp/B005KZ0SDO

Designing Patterns :Martin Shoben (Teaches you to draft your own basic blocks from measurements. Then how to add design elements. It also includes info on pressing and making up.)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Making-Up-Professional/dp/075060364X

Designing patterns - Hilary Campbell

Drafting from measurements:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Designing-Patterns-Approach-Pattern-Cutting/dp/0859504042

Less Traditional Block Making Books

Pattern cutting primer (Making a block from a square grid in S, M, L it has a bit of drafting a bit of draping and design elements.)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Primer-Andrew-Richards/dp/1408156679

This book is good because you can create the basic blocks for making your own patterns by upscale onto grid paper and it also includes some core sewing info.

How to adapt and design sewing patterns:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Adapt-Design-Sewing-Patterns/dp/1408120003





Create the perfect fit, Joi Mahon: (This book is a less traditional approach, she uses a fitting shell pattern. Vogue 1004, but it also teaches you to apply the method to any pattern.)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Create-Perfect-Fit-Measuring-Solutions-ebook/dp/B00QOBM8JA

Suggested Pattern:
https://www.johnlewis.com/vogue-women%27s-dress-sewing-pattern-1004/p1511346

Fitting Books:

Fitting and Pattern Alteration: (This book is pretty hardcore and has 3 different methods for fit alteration and a lot of fit defects I've not found in other books.)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fitting-Pattern-Alteration-Pottberg-Steineckert-Elizabeth/dp/1628929723

Perfect fitting, Sarah Veblen: (Lots of toile making!)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Photo-Guide-Perfect-Fitting/dp/1589236084

Pattern fitting with confidence, Nancy Zieman:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Fitting-Confidence-Nancy-Zieman/dp/0896895742

Complete Fitting Guide:
https://www.palmerpletsch.com/product/palmer-pletsch-complete-guide-fitting/

Fitting adjustments can be applied to any pattern, or basic blocks.

Fitting adjustments: (Pictorial Guide for fitting adjustments, not the most technical, but gives you a good visual idea of fit issues.)
https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_c/C228/welcome.html

Shoulder Slope:

Shoulder Slope 101:
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2013/02/11/shoulder-slope-101

How to Measure Shoulder Slant:
http://kosherpatterns.com/how-to-measure-shoulder-slant-sloper.html

Shoulder adjustments:

Shoulders:
https://mellysews.com/shoulder-fitting-adjustments-when-sewing/

Sleeve adjustment, to match shoulder adjustment:
https://www.dreamcutsew.com/adapting-sleeve-patterns-for-square-or-forward-rolling-shoulders/

Back:

High round back:
http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutorial-how-to-do-a-high-round-back-adjustment/

Broad back:
https://patternandbranch.wordpress.com/tag/major-broad-back-adjustment/

Bust:

Dart manipulation:
http://isntthatsew.org/dart-manipulation/

Full bust adjustment: (If you need more room in the bust area.)
http://curvysewingcollective.com/tutorial-a-full-bust-adjustment-on-a-one-dart-bodice/

How to alter bust height:
https://blog.megannielsen.com/2012/09/how-to-alter-bust-dart-height/

Adding a dart and bust adjustment to a pattern with no dart:
http://curvysewingcollective.com/how-to-add-a-dart-and-an-fba-to-an-unshaped-top/

Dress Forms

Having a dress form that mirrors or is similar to your body is important, especially if you have significant fit issues.

polystyrene with cover from ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tailors-Dummy-Bust-Female-UK-16-18-Dressmakers-Student-Sewing-Mannequin-Display/180756257755

Adjustable:
https://sewing-online.com/dressmakers-dummies.html?filter_general_tooleqp_subtype=6162

How to make a duck tape dress form:
https://www.handimania.com/diy/your-own-shape-sewing-mannequin.html

Dress form pattern from your measurements: (They have a few options: Use over an existing dummy, custom from measurements, standard sizes. Men and women.)
https://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern.html

Padding a Dressform to Your Shape

Threads DIY:
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2015/05/07/pad-a-dress-form-to-your-true-body-shape

Fabulous fit set:
https://www.fabulousfit.com/professional-dress-form-padding-system/full-fitting-set
_________________
Legion Costuming Judge: Officers
Galactic Strategic Command , DXO
BMO Elstree Base UK
Duty Officer Home One Command, Elstree Base UK

[RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)]

Adding this tutorial from Melly Sews:

How to Make a Bodice Pattern – Draft a Sloper of Block
https://mellysews.com/how-to-make-a-bodice-pattern/
_________________
Legion Costuming Judge: Officers, Rebel Supporters
Sunrider Base, BXO
Galactic Strategic Command, DCO
Yavin Command Post, Duty Officer
Sunrider Base Charity Officer 2016-18
-------------------------------------------------------
Mon Mothma, OT Pilots, Willrow Hood, Resistance Officer, TLJ Leia, ANH General, Mirax Terrik, Lyra Erso

[RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)]

Fitting Key Pattern Adjustments:
"In the video Fitting: Key Pattern Adjustments, Judith Neukam walks you through two important pattern alterations that can simplify the fitting process. Judith shows you how to create a template of your shoulder slope and transfer the changes to your pattern. She also demonstrates how taking the right length measurements can make all the difference in a well-fitting garment. "

https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2017/04/05/video-fitting-key-pattern-adjustments
_________________
Legion Costuming Judge: Officers, Rebel Supporters
Sunrider Base, BXO
Galactic Strategic Command, DCO
Yavin Command Post, Duty Officer
Sunrider Base Charity Officer 2016-18
-------------------------------------------------------
Mon Mothma, OT Pilots, Willrow Hood, Resistance Officer, TLJ Leia, ANH General, Mirax Terrik, Lyra Erso

[RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen)]

Bust Dart Manipulation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTSbn608Rcc

Dart Manipulation: The Pivot Method for Beginners:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FmD3aLpni8

A Full Belly Adjustment for a 3XL Gentleman:
https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/2015/12/07/full-belly-adjustment-for-a-3xl-gentleman-altering-a-vest-pattern-for-the-fuller-male-figure/
_________________
Legion Costuming Judge: Officers, Rebel Supporters
Sunrider Base, BXO
Galactic Strategic Command, DCO
Yavin Command Post, Duty Officer
Sunrider Base Charity Officer 2016-18
-------------------------------------------------------
Mon Mothma, OT Pilots, Willrow Hood, Resistance Officer, TLJ Leia, ANH General, Mirax Terrik, Lyra Erso