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Building Hoth footwear/Rebel Commander "hero" boot
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:55 am    Post subject: Building Hoth footwear/Rebel Commander "hero" boot Reply with quote

ATTN: for anyone starting to build their Hoth footwear, read on through this thread, because there IS an EASIER way to accomplish this. *** I will post more info as I go.


Today I will start to build Hoth Commander boots.



This is the fabric & supplies pile that I am starting with courtesy of Phyllis.
Phyllis has pointed out that there are no images of a Hoth Commander's feet shown in ESB. However it is assumed that a Commander would wear a grey colored boot, much like the "hero" version.

There are some images of the "hero" boots from ESB.





If you look closely at these photos, you can see that there are eyelets for laces that were covered over with some sort of cloth binding tape to hide them. These boots also seem to be made of a suede leather.





The main difference with the "hero" style boot is that it is definitely a 'front-opening' boot with a tongue.

As you can see from these images of the screen-used boots, they were some-what cobbled-together, which makes me suspect that they were originally a boot that was modified to be more "Star-Wars"

The boot base that I will be working with for our costume boots are also front-opening, lace-up boots. In order for our costumer to wear these, he will need to be able to access the laces of these boots underneath.

***There is an easier way to build these boots which could be accomplished by choosing a different style base boot to build this on.
If anyone else is looking to create these boots, I would suggest starting with a PULL-ON style boot (like UGGS)
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Obviously...I will be watching this thread closely as I failed in my attempt to scale the historic boot pattern correctly....



Where the hero boot does look like a suede...that is impractical for us who live in the real world doing parades on concrete etc...
so the only practical thing is to use a base of a hiking boot or similar for those of us who pound the pavement.
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right now = I serged the fabric pieces (cotton duck) and they are currently in the washer. Then into the dryer. If the fabric is going to shrink, better do it now rather than later.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and it never ceases to amaze me the things that I miss...

I have looked at that one photo a gazillion times and never saw those shoelace grommet impressions


Embarassed

I always thought that the boots were made from moccasins ...
clearly I was wrong..
I don't know of any moccasins with shafts that tall and shoelaces...
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Schph Gochi wrote:
..................


Where the hero boot does look like a suede...that is impractical for us who live in the real world doing parades on concrete etc...
so the only practical thing is to use a base of a hiking boot or similar for those of us who pound the pavement.


Right. What was made for filming use was probably built to last for the duration of filming, hence the 'cobble-together' look.

We will need to be wearing these in any type of condition and will need to be built to be durable and last hopefully for many years.

I think that suede could be used, but it would be very difficult to sew unless you have a really heavy-duty sewing machine.
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Deathscythe (Jérémy)



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For my hoth boots i used leather (not smooth side, the opposite) for gray part and smooth white leather for white parts, it looks good (exept the bottom, I have to add some parts to hide the shoes sole).
was it a good idea? what do you think?
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deathscythe wrote:
For my hoth boots i used leather (not smooth side, the opposite) for gray part and smooth white leather for white parts, it looks good (exept the bottom, I have to add some parts to hide the shoes sole).
was it a good idea? what do you think?


Can you post a picture / pictures of your boots please?
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have started to work out how to make a pattern. Now it's time for an Internet break. While looking for more information, I came across this:


on this website: http://www.missouritrading.com/patterns-footwear.htm

This could be helpful, but since I don't have this pattern to study, I will keep working on my paper pattern.



I flattened out some paper and cut out a rough approximation of the size that the shaft and tongue of the boot will be. I also cut out a piece of fabric for the toe pattern. I want to use fabric for the toe pattern, because fabric bends / forms better to the shape of the boot.
I folded the paper pieces in half so I can get symmetrical pieces.


I taped the toe piece of fabric directly onto the boot, so that I could draw the shape directly from the boot.


I fit the paper to the boot to get the curved shape for where the shaft of the boot will join the toe piece.


Boot shaft pattern piece. There will be a seam running down the back. I want to get this so it will fit together there and still have enough material in the front to overlap the tongue piece.


Here are the pieces so far, taped to the boot. It's not quite right, but this is the basic idea.
Right now, this is also taller than what it needs to be. I will cut it down a little more, once I have the shape better.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having deja'vu looking at this...

this is my Hoth Trench Trooper boot build...well...as much as I photographed while doing it..



















Looking at your build so far...
I think I am starting to see my critical error when trying to make this other style boot...

I should have just tossed aside the pattern too...



Laughing
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Last edited by Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte) on Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Deathscythe (Jérémy)



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's my boots.





Problem with them it's the base, not good but anyway, i will paint the bottom in gray and it will be ok i think.
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DL (Johan Hanson)



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deathscythe wrote:
For my hoth boots i used leather (not smooth side, the opposite) for gray part and smooth white leather for white parts, it looks good (exept the bottom, I have to add some parts to hide the shoes sole).

I did the same, except that I used a rubberised fabric to cover the "eyelets". I used thicker white leather straps that close with velcro.

I learned that the leather needs to be sprayed with leather-protection spray or it will get soaked if you use it in real snow. The straps also need to be fastened to the gaiters - they will not stay up with tension alone. I covered only the top and sides of the shoes so I also installed stirrups.
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


The pieces of the pattern seem to fit the boot and fit each other. I still have them longer than they need to be, so that I can trim them to fit.


I tweaked the paper pattern some more making the tongue narrower at the bottom. I extended the sides of the boot shaft that will be at the instep area.


Then I decided that I could be messing around with paper for a few more hours and not know whether it was right or not, so I cut the shapes of the boot shaft out of the cotton canvas fabric. I cut out 4 identical pieces. As I was cutting these, I decided I would cut the same size shapes out of a thinner material that would act as a lining. I still have quite a bit of this khaki fabric that I used for my Hoth trooper pants. It is thin enough. I think that there will need to be some batting inside of this part of the boot. Batting will not stay in place by itself and will probably all fall apart if it is exposed.


I serged all of the edges of the grey canvas fabric pieces, then sewed the center back seam into each set of boot sides.


Here is what one of the boot shaft pieces looks like on the boot. The fabric is floppy by itself. It will definitely need some interfacing.


I cut out the fusible interfacing / stabilizer that Phyllis included to be slightly smaller than the fabric pieces, then fused the pieces together.


This is what the stabilized fabric looks like on the boot now.


...in fact, it is so stable that it can stand by itself! Here is the construction for the other boot standing by itself.


I decided that I would need to have a stiffer facing inside the tops of the boot covers, because the upper part of these covers will need to be bulked up some to offset the thickness of the base boots. Here is the pattern piece I came up with for this facing. I will cut it out of the grey canvas.........


Before I can add this facing, I need to finish the back center seams with single-fold bias tape.......


I top-stitched this centered over the seam of each boot. The ends will get sewn inside the other pieces of the boot covers.....


Here is the pressed front & back of the canvas facings. I fused a 2" wide piece of the stabilizer just below the upper edge of the facing. I pressed the lower edge of the facings.....


....then pinned them in place on the lining fabric pieces. I sewed the lower edges of the facing to the linings.


Then I pinned the outsides of the boot pieces to the linings/facings at the top edges, sewed the top edges together, pressed them. I fit them to the boots and decided to trim out about 1" from either side of the front openings. Then I re-serged the front edges of the boots/linings/facing.


Before I place the batting inside this construction, I will sew down some of the other pieces, like this velcro that I will sew down on the inside tops of each side of both boots. This will be to help keep the tongue in place. I will sew this in now so that there will not be any stitching for this showing on the outsides of the boots when they are finished.


Another thing that I want to sew in is all of the straps. Here I have one of the boots with the straps made out of the double-fold quilt binding pinned in place to figure out the spacing. I pressed, then top-stitched the binding pieces. I also sewed the velcro on. It will be a lot easier to do this now rather than have to try to maneuver the whole boot under the sewing machine.... I sewed the straps into the outer fabric of the boots.


Here are both boots with the straps sewn in place.



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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked
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TKvanB (Kathy van Beuningen)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

....and this is what I did yesterday.......


First I trimmed the paper pattern piece for the tongue of the boot to fit into the shape of the boot shaft construction. I found the original fabric pieces that Phyllis had started and decided that I might be able to re-use this material. After I had cut the tongue pieces out, I realized that this fabric probably hadn't been pre-washed because it was really stiff - plus I didn't want part of the finished boots to possibly shrink. So I cut more boot tongue pieces out of the pre-washed fabric. I figured that these boot tongues would need to be either fused with interfacing or have batting inside, so they would need a lining. I accidentally cut out 4 pieces of lining fabric. So I decided that I would try it both ways. I would build one set of tongues interfaced and one set filled with batting.


I sewed basting stitches through all the layers of the fabrics and batting together, with the fabric face-to-face and batting / interfacing on the outside.


After I basted all pieces together in my sewing machine, I ran all of the edges through my serger. Then I pressed the pieces. I was careful not to press the batting. I want there to be some 'poof' in those pieces.


Then I turned all 4 tongues and pressed again. I pressed the batted pieces very lightly.


Then I wanted to add the 'chevron' detail to the pieces. (See photos of the original boots) I measured out where approximately I wanted to make them. This would not really be structurally necessary for the interfaced pieces, but it DOES keep the batting more in place in the center of the batted tongues.


Here is one of the batted tongue pieces on the boot. I do like how this looks.


Here is one of the interfaced tongues on the other boot. This piece is very stiff.


Here are both boots with the shaft pieces wrapped around, one with each of the different style tongue constructions.


Side view of both boots. Now either of these would work. BUT, since the laces of the base boot will need to be accessible to the wearer, the flexibility of the batted tongues will work better for this application. SO I will proceed with using the batting-filled tongues for these boots.


Then I trimmed & cut the final shape of the fabric toe pattern piece (tan). I placed the pattern piece onto the pre-washed fabric on the bias to cut out the (grey) fabric for the toes. By cutting these toe pieces on the bias of the fabric, I will be able to take advantage of the natural stretch properties of the fabric to help create a more rounded piece to cover the toes of the base boots.


I cut out the fabric, serged the edges and sewed in gathering stitches at the rounded part of the toes. Here is one before I gathered it and one that is gathered. I played around with the gathering to be able to fit the toes of the base boots and then pressed the edges under.


Here they are on the boots. I manipulated the fabric even more by bending it to be more rounded, but since there isn't a whole lot of stretch to canvas, there are some small creases at the toe. This is about how flat I could get it while still conforming to the shape of the boot.


Then I pinned the tongues onto the toes so that the tongues would be in the correct place inside the boot shafts.


I took the tongues & toes off the boots and turned them over & re-pinned so that I could sew the seams on the inside. I first based them in place, and then re-fit them on the boots to make sure that they would be straight (up & down) yet curves to conform with the shape.


Next I needed to finish the shafts of the boots. I held off doing this previously because I needed to see how the boots will fit together. Here is the batting placed inside the boot shaft. The batting needs to fill the upper part of the boot shaft to fill-out this part. The lower part of the shafts will be flush against the base boots, so there does not need to be excess filling in that area.


I turned the lining over the batting and pinned all of the edges in place, matching the edges of the fabric & lining. I folded and tucked the bottom edge of the lining into the bottom edge of the fabric. This is where the boot shaft will be glued onto the base boots.


After I had these sewed, I decided that I would need to secure the loose batting in the centers of the shafts. I did that by sewing through all layers over the top-stitching of the bias tape on the back seams of the shafts.


Then I got out the extra-wide, double-fold bias tape, cut it to fit the outer edges of the boot shaft pieces and pressed it flat. I pinned it to the outside of the boot pieces at the tops, sewed it in place, then mitered the angles at the points. After that, I pressed the bias tape into curves to fit the side shapes, pinned those down and sewed them in.


Here is one of the sides being sewn in......


Then I turned the bias tape to the back sides, pinned it in place and started to hand-sew the back of the bias tape in place. I got one of them done last night and started on the second one, but it was getting late, so decided to stop for the night. I plan to top-stitch the bias tape on the outsides. Doing it this way will allow me to keep a very straight and even stitch in the top stitching.
Here are the pieces as of this morning.
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Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TKvanB wrote:
....



Here are the pieces as of this morning.




Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised Surprised
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