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WIP - Rebel One's Luke Skywalker (Jabba's Palace)

 
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RebelOne ()



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 4:21 am    Post subject: WIP - Rebel One's Luke Skywalker (Jabba's Palace) Reply with quote

Hi everyone,

Below is a draft plan of my Luke Skywalker (Jabba's Palace) costume. If anyone has advice or knows the answers to some of my questions, I would appreciate hearing from you (in public or PM)!

No photos yet, but I will update as I finalize patterns, collect materials, and finish parts. I expect to hire a seamstress to tailor and sew the patterns.

SHIRT / INNER TUNIC

Material: black stretch wool gabardine

Pattern: Burda 6874, Pattern A: http://www.simplicity.com/burda-style-pattern-6874-mens-wear-sports-wear/B6874.html#start=11

Notes:
- Pattern Mods:
    - front:
      - no button opening

    - collar:
      - replace with mandarin collar

    - cuffs:
      - no opening, except an invisible zipper on left sleeve

    - bib:
      - add bib per reference photos
      - very light grey/white lining under top bib
      - magnets to close

    - back:
      - add center back seam, with stitching per reference photos


Q_S1: Is the bib lining very light grey or white? Costume standard indicates either, but I was wondering if anyone knows the exact colour.

Q_S2: Costume standard mentions a "hidden zipper under the left sleeve". How far back does it go? Do I need a hidden zipper for the right sleeve too?

Q_S3: Can anyone recommend a bib lining material for the "slubby linen look fabric in white or very light grey"?

Q_S4: If there are no buttons on the front and it is close-fitting, how do you get the shirt on? I can't image putting on a no-button, snug dress shirt from the bottom.

Q_S5: Some RL costumes have two pleats on the back. Does anyone have a film reference photo for this? Do I need the two pleats?

Q_S6: How tall is the mandarin collar? Based on scale measurements, I estimate it to be about 2.45 in. tall


VEST + TABARD + OBI / OUTER TUNIC

Material: black suit-weight washed raw silk tussah

Patterns:
    - vest: kimono
    - tabard: preacher stole, curved and narrows around neck


Q_V1: vest: Can anyone recommend a kimono/vest pattern?

Q_V2: How is the obi attached in the back?


PANTS

Material: black stretch wool gabardine

Pattern: riding pants

Notes:


Q_P1: Can anyone recommend a pattern? If not, I may buy cheap pants and use them for a base pattern: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-Flexible-Horse-Riding-Chaps-Equestrian-Chaps-Or-Pants-Horse-Riding-Breeches-For-Men-women-and/32570191305.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.2.JWnp7M


BOOTS

Material: leather, semi-gloss

Pattern: N/A, will buy

Q_B1: I plan to buy boots. Has anyone tried:



GLOVE

Material: leather

Pattern: N/A, will buy

Q_G1: Can I use any short "black leather glove"? Is there anything I should consider when buying the glove?


HAIR/WIG

Notes:
    - wig: ask seller if they will style and highlight
    - eyebrow liner: selected to match wig, after it is delivered


Q_H1: Can anyone recommend a wig? I'm leaning towards Epic Cosplay, Aether wig in caramel blonde: https://www.epiccosplay.com/neat-trimmed-caramel-blonde-cosplay-wig.html


LIGHTSABER

Sources:


Q_L1: Any comments on these lightsabers?

Q_L2: If your lightsaber has a fixed blade, won't it drag along the ground if you clip it to your belt? Do you carry it around all day?


BELT

Notes:


Q_B1: Anyone have a pattern for Luke's belt pouch?

Q_B2: Anyone have a pattern for the belt clip (the metal hook to the left of the lightsaber clip)?

Q_B3: If the D-ring on the belt is for the lightsaber, and the lightsaber has a D-ring, how do you hang the lightsaber?

Q_B4: What color and gloss of black should I look for in the belt dye?


CLOAK

Material: thin, dark brown wool

Pattern: unknown

Notes:
    - back of cloak just touches the floor, but front of cloak is about 3 in. above the floor
    - seams over shoulders and down arms
    - black hook closure (costume exhibit, but couldn't see on film pics)


Q_C1: Anyone have a pattern for Luke's cloak?

Q_C2: Anyone know the panatone color or dye color of the robe?

Q_C3: The cloak on the costume exhibit appears to be very thin (you can see the manaquin's hand under it). Has anyone else made their cloak that thin?

This is quite a long post. Thank you for any insights you can provide!
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Cobalt-60 ()
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can answer a few of these:



S1: light grey. it has a texture to it, as well.. I took these photos myself.
http://imageshack.com/a/img661/1381/6KbhLR.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img661/6696/QpagvV.jpg

S4: http://scottandtemphotography.com/graflexSaber/219421_442066315844975_522145585_o.jpg
follow the line of the bib, on the left side of the pic (luke's right), as it extends down towards the belt..
compare to right side of the pic (Luke's left)..
you can see where the shirt closes at the front.

S5: movie references can be found here: this is the entire film in 'frame-by-frame' screencaps @1080p
https://starwarsscreencaps.com/star-wars-episode-vi-return-of-the-jedi-1983/




V : the material / texture looks like this:
http://imageshack.com/a/img909/4593/iglkKz.jpg



P: looks like this:
http://i.imgur.com/Xucf2dA.jpg



L1: I think you're probably better off with one of these(?)
http://www.parksabers.com/arcwave.html

L2: yeah you basically carry it around all day. unless you're really tall.
http://imageshack.com/a/img540/8418/xA7QSH.jpg



B1: 4" x4" square. looks like this:
http://imageshack.com/a/img540/3521/kqixQK.jpg

B2: Dave makes these:
http://www.saberbelt.com/SaberHook.htm
"back in stock soon"

B3: the metal hook is for hanging the lightsaber (see B2)
the D-ring on the belt is for show.



C1: 3/4 circle with a hood.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going for Jabba's palace then forget about the glove. He doesn't wear that until he leaves Tatooine anyway. Cloak and glove should never be worn together. Smile
Also the belt: belt should never be worn on top of the vest and obi. Under obi, fine, but not over. That is a common dressing mistake in exhibitions.

I also recommend washing the fabric for vest, stole, and obi a few times to get it preshrunk and to get any excess dye out of it. You want a light black for these items and a dark, solid black for the shirt and pants.
Having a zipper in the left side should give you all the space you need to get in and out of your shirt. Smile
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only time in the film where Luke wears his glove and vest with the belt over the vest is in the ewok village during the scene where he talks with Leia about Vader.

Here are the fabrics I will be using for my personal Luke ROTJ Costume. I have all of these fabrics in hand and they match exactly what I see when I look at reference photos of the costume, plus what I saw in person at the NYC Power of Costume exhibit.

Tunic and Pants: (For comfort and affordability I opted for this over Wool Gabardine, plus the look is nearly identical.)

http://www.sellfabric.com/store/p/577-Black.aspx

Tuxedo Stripe: (Mohair braid is expensive and hard to source, but this is a very very close looking alternative, much easier to find and much, much more affordable.) It has been confirmed in the Star Wars Costumes: The Original Trilogy by Brandon Alinger that the Tuxedo Stripe is 1 inch wide.

http://www.joann.com/black-braided-elastic/11384468.html#q=braided%2Belastic&start=15

Bib detail: The color of this fabric is spot on. It's just light gray enough where it could appear almost white in certain lighting, just like on the real costume.

https://www.fabric.com/buy/0408429/european-100-washed-linen-prism

Vest, Stole, Sash:

http://www.bblackandsons.com/black-matka-fabric-p-434.html

Hope this is helpful.

Psab
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RebelOne ()



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much, Cobalt-60, Lora Skywalker, and Psab Keel! I am blown away by how much knowledge you have on the costume and how helpful your comments are!
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Cobalt-60 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: WIP - Rebel One's Luke Skywalker (Jabba's Palace) Reply with quote

RebelOne wrote:

Q_S6: How tall is the mandarin collar? Based on scale measurements, I estimate it to be about 2.45 in. tall


looking at this photo, and using the belt width as a reference @ exactly 2 inches...

I would estimate the collar to be about 1.5 inches tall.



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RebelOne ()



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice catch, Cobalt!

I tried your proportion method, using a 2 in. belt width, and the collar comes to exactly 1-1/2 in. I also measured on a dress shirt with the collar up, and 1-1/2 in. comes just below my chin as it does on Luke in the reference photo.

Regarding the shirt opening below the bottom right side of the bib, what is a good way to close it ... invisible zipper?
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Cobalt-60 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

or maybe those hook/eye closures?
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RebelOne ()



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for your advice, everyone, both in the topic and by PM!

I ordered the materials I'll need, and about half have arrived. I will post again in a few weeks after all the materials have arrived and I start putting the costume together.
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RebelOne ()



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. How/where is the invisible zipper installed? The Star Wars Costumes book shows the zipper under the left sleeve (p. 132); the pic in the RL reference photo section shows the zipper on the left torso, can't see if it is under the sleeve. If the invisible zipper runs along the torso and sleeve, I suspect the stress in the armpit will split it.

2. Is there piping along the top and side edges of the bib (like upholstery seams)?

3. Is there stitching along the edges of the belt? A pre-movie photo with Mark Hamill shows stitching (also shows lightsaber on the D-ring clip), but I don't see stitching in any movie photos.

4. Update: Still waiting (since April) for the pants pattern, boots, lightsaber, and a wig stylist. No response to my emails and phone messages for the pants pattern and local wig stylists, boots are delayed, and lightsaber won't be ready until August. In the interest of time, I'm going to make my own pants pattern, so I hope to have mock ups ready for review in about two weeks.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The belt stitching is likely from a famous preproduction photo of Mark Hamill doing a photo shoot of a costume fitting. If it's the one I'm thinking of it has a red back drop. That belt has all kinds of pouches on it and a buckle similar to Han Solo's belt. The final screen used belt has no stitching at all. It has the hexagonal buckle, one d-ring, saber hook, single pouch and is highly weathered.
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RebelOne ()



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your feedback, Psab!
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RebelOne ()



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the pants: how to you keep them up? Do you wear a belt under the belt? Elastic waistband?

In some of the pre-production photos, where you can see the waist line of the pants, Luke is not wearing a belt. My mockup pants are quite snug (glad the vest covers the crotch!), yet they keep sliding down if I move around in them for more than a few minutes.
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