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Endor Trooper Pattern Pieces

 
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Grey Jedi (Donna Keeley)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:22 pm    Post subject: Endor Trooper Pattern Pieces Reply with quote

Endor Trooper Gaiter Pattern:
http://www.greyjedi.me/role_clothing/tutorials/_Gaiterpattern.pdf

Endor Trooper Vest Pattern:
http://www.greyjedi.me/role_clothing/tutorials/EndorTrooperVest.pdf

Endor Trooper Vest Tutorial
http://www.greyjedi.me/role_clothing/tutorials/endor_trooper_vest.htm

Endor Trooper Helmet Pattern:
http://www.greyjedi.me/role_clothing/tutorials/_AN-H-15HELMETPATTERN.pdf

Endor Trooper Helmet Tutorial:
http://www.greyjedi.me/role_clothing/tutorials/endor_helmet1.html
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ivar ()
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks a lot for share this!
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Agustus G. ()
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AGREED! Thank you for posting this. Exactly what I needed.
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Amon-Chakay (Unai Urbieta)
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2015 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow Very Happy
Thanks for sharing this!
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Grey Jedi (Donna Keeley)
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have time to wait, I will be offering some of these for sale. Right now I am taking orders for Endor Trooper Vests in the Costuming and Prop forum (only visible to full members).
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Xus Kenobi (Jesús Valcárcel)
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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for sharing! Will put them to good use!
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:47 pm    Post subject: Soft helmet Reply with quote

I used the soft helmet pattern...it seems so big around the ears. I haven't sewn in the ear cups yet. Wondering if there needs to be padding behind the ear areas?

Thanks!

[img]https://www.dropbox.com/s/k670r33xjecsz56/IMG_1845.JPG.jpeg?dl=0[/img]
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a Friendly FYI:

A problem with the patterns that were posted for making your own AN-H-15 soft cap replica,
is that the original real visor on the AN-H-15 Flight helmets was never included in the patterns.

You can see how much material is missing from the forehead when comparing to these real AN-H-15 soft caps:




Some soft cap replica makers have assumed that the missing visor is not needed and sewn the larger (Movie added) visor directly to their soft cap replicas.
Sewing the large visor directly to the soft cap replica pushes the front of the Donut helmet up and is usually the primary reason why the Donut helmet is often rocked back really far in many costume submission photos. (And get turned down by the costume judges.)
The screen used large Movie visors were attached to the Donut helmet, Not to the AN-H-15 soft caps. So it was easy to adjust the height and angle of the Donut helmet.

The original real visor is an essential component of the soft cap's dimensions, which covers the forehead and also provides a comfort layer to help protect the forehead and keep the Donut helmet from digging in.

You may add another piece of material to your soft cap to replace the (real) visor that wasn't included in the patterns. It needs to come down at least an inch or more below the existing front edge of the soft cap pattern.
It doesn't necessarily need to stick out like the real visors do, it just needs to come down more and cover the rest of the forehead.

Now, when I make my soft cap replicas, I have modified my patterns to include at least an additional inch of material at the front, so it covers most of the forehead.


This eliminates the need to add a smaller visor, and you can still finish your replica the way that the tutorial shows.

David L.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the information! I'm new to sewing and that cap gave me a lot of trouble. Especially the bias tape. Doesn't mine seem to stick out on the sides too much? I used cotton duck. Is that too stiff?
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thisiskevin ()
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just want to say thank you so much for sharing this!
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TK-3238 ()



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any pattern for the ribbed piece and visor?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TK-3238 wrote:
Is there any pattern for the ribbed piece and visor?

There hasn't been anything official posted, but here is the pattern that I use for the Visor.
(This is the closest to what looks screen accurate after trying several variations to the shape and curvature.)

The image is sized at 8 1/2 by 11 inches for printing on standard (American) size printer paper.


I also have a PDF copy of the pattern that I can email out.

Once the visor cloth has been sewn together, I will insert the visor plastic into the cloth and adjust the excess cloth edge (that's on the inside) so that it is as flat as possible on the bottom of the plastic insert. This keeps everything looking neat and smooth.
Then I pull the cloth as tight as I can get it and sew a stitch line up against the back edge of the plastic to keep the visor looking nice and smooth. If the cloth is loose you will have wrinkles.

Installing the Visor

The Visor is attached to the hard Donut on screen used helmets. Not sewn to the AN-H-15 soft cap.

You may use three pop rivets or ( # 6 ) machine screws to attach the visor. (Machine screws will allow you to remove it if needed.)
The head of the rivet (or screw) needs to cover the edge of the plastic insert on the visor to keep it tight against the Donut. (Otherwise it may sag down a little in the front.)

You will need to drill 3 holes through the bottom side of the Donut.
The red dots indicate where the holes should be drilled and how far from the edge they should be.



Drilling into cloth doesn't usually work very well (It will likely catch and wrap the cloth around the drill bit.)
so I will start by drilling the holes in the Donut first.

Then I will use a leather punch to punch the center hole in the visor cloth right next to (up against) the edge of the visor plastic.
As mentioned before the head of the rivet / screw needs to hold the visor plastic up tight against the Donut to keep the visor from sagging. This is especially important in the front.



You will probably need to make a couple of cuts in the excess material at the back of the visor to get it to properly wrap over the edge of the donut around the curve.
(see the last image of this post below.)



Align the hole in the visor with the center hole in the Donut, and wrap the cloth over the edge.
You still need to make another hole in the back side of the cloth before you can put a screw/rivet through it.
You can use the leather punch to make the hole, by punching right through the existing hole(s).

NOTE: I once tried to skip using a drill and just used the leather punch
to punch the holes right through both plastic and cloth all at once,
but the plastic cracked, so I don't recommend doing that.




Once you have the hole in the back side of the cloth you can insert a rivet/screw into the hole and through both layers of the cloth.
Use a washer on the inside so it firmly holds the inside layer of cloth in place.

Make sure you get the outer ends of the visor clamped in place before you rivet it down tight.



---

Making the Ribbed Panel

My template for the ribbed panel is wider in the center and tapers down some at each end. Here are the dimensions that I use for size Medium to XL:
It is 5.6" wide for a 2" stretch at the center. 5" wide at each end and is 16" long overall.

To make the ribs I sew a stitch line every half inch, all the way down the panel.
Then I use some inexpensive cloth clothes line cord as a filler for the ribs.
I cut the cord 1 inch shorter than the width of the panel at each channel.
Then I push a very long thin screwdriver or stiff piece of wire through the channel and out the other side. I use a 1.5" long piece of masking tape and lightly tape the end of the cord to the screwdriver or wire. (the tape should be well attached to the screwdriver/wire.)
Pull the cord through the channel until it is centered with a 1/2" wide empty space at each end.
Put your finger down on the cord so it won't move, then pull the screwdriver / wire out. the tape should break free of the cord.
you can reuse the same piece of tape several times to install the cord in the channels.

Once all of the ribs are filled with cord, you can sew the bias tape around the edges of the panel. (Make sure you have a 1/2" wide flat space all the way around the panel so the cord doesn't get in your way when sewing.)

David L.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks very much for that! Will give it a shot. One thing that has struck me is that the size and shape of the visor (i.e. somewhat wide side to side and short front to back) appears to be extremely close to the the one that is on my Class A uniform hat. I'm well past due for a new one, so once I get it I may dismantle my old one and do some experimentation...
In the meantime, going to give your tutorial a try! Thanks again!
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