Ceremonial Leia

[SenatorSnips (Jane Rosado)]

Hello all!

I'm new here and trying to get various costumes approved as we speak. The only one that's giving me trouble is this one -I underestimated the amount of work/ difficulty that's in it- for now, i got the front top part + sleeve/ wings done and am wondering if i'm on the right track bust seam wise. And if i correctly made the pleat on the top. Any advice/ help is welcome

[Lora Skywalker ()]

It's a good start, but it needs some more work. This costume looks simple, but is deceptively complicated to make.

Firstly, you need a sharper inverted V at the bust. Move the point further up. And no rounding the lines. I'd also move the top of the pleat to the center while keeping the bottom placement.
The U cut of the neckline also needs to be wider at the bottom.
It might just be folds in the fabric, but there appears to be extra seam lines on the bust over the breast area, too. Those would need to go.
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DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/

[SenatorSnips (Jane Rosado)]

Yes, I certainly thought it would be easier. That might also have to do with the outer layer constantly working against me

I was doubting if the point was ending too low, so I'll definitely make it end higher. That and the pleat seem easy enough fixes. I've already changed the bustline to make it more straight towards the sides. Same goes for the neckline, -it was roughly pinned on in the pictures -. Yes, I did make darts in the underlayer for a better fit, I wasn't aware I shouldn't do that. Is there anyway to fix that without having to start over?

[Lora Skywalker ()]

I made three versions of this, so I feel your pain. Granted I didn't do much research the first time and RL didn't figure in my dreams back then, but even so.

Getting the darts out depends on whether you have cut the excess fabric off or not. If it's still there you should be able to take them out and tweak the fabric to get the right fit. Move the not existing dart to the side and armpit.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/

[SenatorSnips (Jane Rosado)]

Oh wow and here I thought making it once was already a pain I respect you, I'd never have the patience to make it over again.


Yes, luckily i kept the seam allowance! That should do the trick, thank you!

[Lora Skywalker ()]

Good. Then you should be able to rework it.

Yeah... I promised myself to never do it again after the third time... but... y'know... you keep researching and learning new things, and... well...now I have a bunch of things I want to redo, but it would require starting anew and I don't want to make this a fourth time. XD I've just accepted that it has inaccuracies. Mostly accepted it, anyway.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/

[jeneyre ()]

If it helps, I included a link to a pdf copy of the pattern I made for my ceremonial gown here: http://www.jeneyre.com/2016/11/princess-leia-ceremony-gown-pattern.html That might help with the bust dart!

[Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)]

It looks like you haven't hemmed the sleeves yet- for me it was easier to do this before I put the rest of the garment together so it might make sense to try and do that sooner than later! Good luck, looking great!
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Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge

[SenatorSnips (Jane Rosado)]

Thank you! 😀 the dress is almost complete now, but I have decided to make it over again from scratch as it's still not to my liking 😕 it just keeps 'wrinkling' and that annoys me. It's possible that the pattern or even fabric I used weren't good. I think I'm going for a heavier kind or non stretch for the inner dress. But the pattern will surely help me a lot better than my previous one! 😄

[SenatorSnips (Jane Rosado)]

Yes, I wish I figured that out sooner 😣 I had some struggles to get them hemmed after because they frayed badly 😕 Definitely something I'll do with the next version!

[Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)]

I feel like its so hard to know all of this stuff! I have made all my costumes at least twice to get them to where I like them and there is STILL TONS of room for improvement. Is your mannequin set to your height? Some feedback I got on mine was that the sleeves shouldn't drag and it looks like yours are on the floor, I wish I knew that BEFORE I hemmed mine as taking out my rolled hem stitch has not been my favorite....
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Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge

[SenatorSnips (Jane Rosado)]

I know that feeling all too well 😕 sometimes it's so frustrating, I've been sewing for a couple of years now and with some costumes (especially this one) it feels like I'm a beginner again.


Yes, my mannequin is set to my height ☺I know the sleeves are too long, but since I didn't really have a pattern for them and basically had to 'wing' it I thought it would be safer to make them too long and trim them after ☺

[bremark ()]

What and where did you buy your fabric? What type did you purchase? The fabric has been my stopping point (I assume will the the first of many!). I have bought several different types but feel they are too heavy or too sheer. I followed Jay-Dee with type and pattern purchase but can not seem to find the correct fabric type.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you!

[SenatorSnips (Jane Rosado)]

I used chiffon for the outer layer and a light stretch fabric for the inner layer ☺ altho when I'll remake it, I will be using a heavier kind for the inner layer.

[Lora Skywalker ()]

I used a thick chiffon for the outer layer and a stretch for the inner layer. If I were to remake it, I would use something with less stretch for the inner layer.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/