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TFA Luke WIP thread

 
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 11:16 pm    Post subject: TFA Luke WIP thread Reply with quote

So, after a trial with the previous commissioner for this costume, I have someone else working on the costume for me. And she just said there's a problem.

The Dharma homespun we all agree is teh mostest awesumest fabric for the TFA cloak is not, in fact, a wide enough fabric to permit her to make the cloak without a seam down the back for someone my size (6'1", 54" around the torso and 22+ inches across the shoulders). And that would result in the costume being rejected by RL. She's working on another part of the costume (which will largely be raw silk or white cotton twill, also from Dharma) while I get advice and try to come up with a way around this problem.

So. Any of you had to deal with anything like this? From the judging side of things, have you ever had to fake out something like this, or seen it done, to comply with a CRL?
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Dharma fabric is not the widest material but that shouldn't make a difference. The thing that makes Luke's cloak different in TFA is that the fabric is draped across the body horizontally, which is why there is a seam running across the back, at about the back of the knees. The front of the fabric is draped down over the shoulders much like you would drape a towel around your body when you get out of the shower, except the front of the fabric would drape to the ground. Let me see if I can take a picture to illustrate this for you so it makes more sense.
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Psab Keel wrote:
The Dharma fabric is not the widest material but that shouldn't make a difference. The thing that makes Luke's cloak different in TFA is that the fabric is draped across the body horizontally, which is why there is a seam running across the back, at about the back of the knees. The front of the fabric is draped down over the shoulders much like you would drape a towel around your body when you get out of the shower, except the front of the fabric would drape to the ground. Let me see if I can take a picture to illustrate this for you so it makes more sense.


I know what you mean - I'm the one who made that crude little graphic a few months ago for someone else. Lay it out for the main body of the cloak, and then add another piece at the bottom of that , which results in that curved-horizontal seam at about knee level (and curving to meet the bottom of the rest of the cloak as you come around to the front.

I'd better check and make sure that's the way she's trying to lay it out, because I really thought that even at 36-37" width after washing, it would be wide enough.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll take a picture of the way I will be laying my fabric.
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So here are the fabrics I've been looking at:

Current selection, the one that's 37" width after washing and possibly too narrow, is https://www.dharmatrading.com/fabric/handspun-handwoven-natural-fabric.html. Initial width 45", shrinks about 16% width (and REQUIRES ironing after washing, or you have even less width and length to work with). Too light in color so it requires dyeing, but otherwise the look of it is REALLY good.

Dharma also has a 55" width fabric similar to that: https://www.dharmatrading.com/fabric/cotton/handwoven-natural-fabric-55-inch.html - but note that the fabric weight is about one-third the other fabric. My take is that this is too lightweight to work.

My first cloak fabric, set aside once I learned of the Dharma heavy handspun, was from http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=big_fabric&fabric_id=549. I really liked the color as a base, the fabric was soft to the touch, and as a heavier-weight linen it would flow and drape pretty well without blowing all over the place. In retrospect, it may well still be too fine a weave to be a great choice - but it might still be an acceptable one. Cost is pretty moderate, and it came out to over 52" after washing, IIRC (57" unwashed). And I have a bunch of it so I may just go ahead and make either a backup robe from it, or a similar one for Renn Faire use or something.

Another recent find that someone just posted is http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=big_fabric&menu=f&fabric_id=1528. Seems like a good loose and rough weave, color's not terribly far off and being undyed should take to any necessary dyeing pretty well. I really do like the look of this fabric. Cost is moderate, and it's 59" wide unwashed, so should shrink to somewhere between 50-55" width.

Jason's using a 60" jute burlap, heavily treated in multiple washes to soften and seal the fibers. I'd previously checked and rejected actual burlap, but am waiting for his results with interest as it sounds like he may have figured out a way around the problems I had with the stuff (rough stiff fibers, and a LOT of shedding). And burlap is *CHEAP* - though some of that savings gets eaten up in the washing/treating process, I suppose. But you have to wash EVERYTHING at least a couple of times...


So, I have samples coming from Fabric-store.com (the IL065 rough linen) and Dharma (samples of both handspun weights, for comparison) to check out. May grab a sample of an appropriately-colored jute burlap, to see if I can make it workable the way Jason describes. Lora says that, laid out properly (the way we've pretty much agreed needs to be done, for Old Luke's cloak - horizontally, rather than vertically), my heavy handspun OUGHT to be wide enough to do the job - measured at 36" from the nape of my neck, that rear curved-horizontal seam will fall at my upper-middle thigh, allowing the bottom 36" width (allowing for seams on each end of both widths) to drape well onto the floor, as it should. And I have a long-enough length of that fabric for the required two pieces of the body, plus the hood - it OUGHT to work.


But I want at least one backup option if it doesn't, I guess.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The second fabric you listed from Dharma is the stuff they used for Obi-Wan's Prequel Outer Tunics. I made 5 sets of tunics from it and while it's a very nice fabric, it is a nightmare to work with. For Luke's Cloak from TFA it would be too lightweight and crinkle way too much. Trust me, you don't want that one. : )

I'm not so sure about using actual Jute for the cloak. It seems like a lot of work and personally I wouldn't want to do all that. But that's just me.

I still think the best option is the Heavy Handwoven material from Dharma. The only downside is that it needs to be dyed and ironed. Which is fine, but it's an few extra steps in the process. As long as you purchased enough yardage of it, if it's laid across the body horizontally there should be no issue with the cloak fitting any size. The only issue I could think of is that if you don't get enough yardage of it, then it won't be long enough to drape over your shoulders and touch the ground.

This is some scrap Dharma material I have that I draped across my body horizontally and simply draped across my shoulders. This way all you need to do is cut a small section for the collar so it lays properly when you attach the hood and then attach the bottom half to get the correct length in the back. Plus this scrap piece is not ironed so this should reach down to the back of my knees once flattened which is approximately where it sits on Mark Hamill on the screen used costume.

TFACloak by Nathan Andrews, on Flickr
TFACloak1 by Nathan Andrews, on Flickr
TFACloak2 by Nathan Andrews, on Flickr
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LotlBotl (Christopher)
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just because i read the phrase "then it won't be long enough to drape over your shoulders and touch the ground.":

The cloak does not touch the ground in TFA, it just looks like that because of the terrain on Skellig Michael and the high grass. In this picture you can clearly see light under the cloak, it ends at about the upper edge of the boots soles.
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/df/49/b3/df49b3dc6ef95f3a5fccbcd9662fbfdb.jpg

I don't know how long the cloak is in TLJ, but keep in mind that you should not use the new movie as reference for a costume from the last movie, as the costume is a new one with an all new cloak with neckstrings ans armholes.
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Psab Keel ()



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You wouldn't likely want it to drag on the ground anyway because then you run the risk of tripping over it. lol Just long enough to sit about the soles of the boots seems right to me.
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It literally just occurred to me that, after washing, I *DON'T* have a ten-yard length of the Dharma heavy handspun (or rather, my costume maker doesn't). I have between 8.5-9 yards, after hot-washing-induced length shrinkage. Which should be plenty long enough for the two pieces of the body of the cloak, but may not leave enough fabric to make the hood. Better talk to her and let her know I may need her to get (and wash, and dye) another couple yards to do the cloak

Neck hole of radius 4" (should be plenty for an 18.5" neck) from the edge of the fabric drops the seam to the upper thigh. Second piece then is able to drag on the ground from there, so it should be enough. Barely. I'd love for the seam to be even a little lower than it will be, but there doesn't seem to be much I can do about that, given the physical limitations of the fabric itself. So I'll have her make it, and work on one myself using that wider Fabric-Store.com linen, since I have both of those fabrics already. May as well, since I've already paid for both of those and have no real prospects for other uses for those fabrics.
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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fabric-Store.com sample just came in. Photos at https://www.dropbox.com/s/ds3zenwd8unhhty/IL095%20Sample%20held%20in%20light.jpg?dl=0 and https://www.dropbox.com/s/sjxc4tdinrjbl3q/IL095%20Sample%20held%20to%20light.jpg?dl=0

It's a 10.2 ounce linen, natural color and 57" width unwashed. Seems like it would soften a bit in the laundry, which appears to be confirmed by at least one reviewer (who says it actually softened more in the dryer than in the wash, actually, and he made a heavy 18th-Century-style shirt out of it). At $10.82/yard it's one of the less-expensive options, but still looks like a good possibility, and the manufacturer says it's easy care - machine wash cold, tumble dry low or line/air dry, steam-iron up to medium heat.

I think I'll keep this in my back pocket in case the heavy handspun version doesn't work out - thread weave is a little tighter on the IL095 than the handspun, but not hugely so. You can still see some light through the fabric. It'll take dyeing if necessary, and looks like it's starting from a decent color to begin with. Going to tell Elzbieta to go ahead on the handspun, since she's got that (and that she may need to get extra for the hood), and see about using the lighter linen I have here to try my hand at doing my own cloak, just in case.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can only wish you the best of luck with this. I'm also curious as to how the burlap experiment will turn out.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just made a cloak from the fabrics-store.com IL095 natural linen. Personally I think the color and texture is pretty darn close. The lighting in these pictures is very similar to the lighting in the end scene in TFA so comparing them to screen shots from the movie should give you a good idea of how the color compares. It's maybe just a shade lighter but I didn't feel the difference was enough to warrant dyeing it. The texture after washing is very close as well, although the weave tightened up a little more than I would have liked.





If anyone would like more detailed pictures of the fabric, I can do that. Just let me know.

Overall I'm really happy with the fabric I chose. It looks great and it drapes and moves exactly how I wanted it to. However, I think I would have been happy with the 4C22 natural linen as well, and if I had it on hand already, I would not spend the extra money to order the IL095 instead. It's worth noting that the IL095 is a VERY heavy, bulky fabric. It doesn't really come across in the sample but when you're handling yards and yards of it, it really sinks in. It was difficult to work with at times. I actually had to go to a laundromat and use their huge industrial machines to pre-wash it because 9 yards wouldn't fit in my high capacity front loader.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

erictank wrote:

Neck hole of radius 4" (should be plenty for an 18.5" neck)


Careful here. I almost messed this up when I did it. Remember you're cutting out a half circle, not a full circle. A 4" radius only gives you about 12.5" to go around the neck. You'll need more like 6.5" to comfortably fit around an 18.5" neck.

Or, you can do what I ended up doing and cut the neck in more of a sine curve shape. You get a little extra room that way without using up any more width of your fabric. I think it also lays nicer in the front.

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erictank ()
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I plan on printing my hand parts this weekend, and starting on the cloak with the 4C22 Natural linen I have here at home (costume maker is proceeding with the one made of the Dharma heavy handspun, as well). I've got it on hand, it's already washed (repeatedly) and dried so it's shrunk, and it's about 50" wide post-wash. That'll be plenty wide enough, if there's an issue with the handspun one, and if not, then I've got a nice Renn Faire cloak. And enough remaining linen to do other costume items, too.

On a related note, I FINALLY found an image I first saw last year about cloak design, that I was unable to find again for the whole intervening year. I'll have to make and attach the hood, as these are JUST for the cloak bodies, but Design #4 (second from the right) is the one I plan to do - the one with the little cutouts in the neck to help bring it around and sit better around the shoulders and neck than just a straight half-circle. And I'll have plenty of room on that fabric to go a little wider on the neck hole, as well.

https://www.facebook.com/eric.tank/posts/1627681137252488?notif_id=1509644908801092&notif_t=like

Cpsnisi - if that's how the IL095 looks in real life, it came out great. Your cloak looks VERY good in your photos.
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