Forum and Costume Controls

   FAQFAQ  SearchSearch  MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups  medals.php?sid=ba0a5bb2992a3103e23611173925f1e5Medals   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in

       
REMINDER: Do not change your e-mail address yourself. Please read this first for why.

New Costume Standard: Leia Organa- Raddus Bridge Gown
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Royalty/Senatorial -> RLGS Archive
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 21 Apr 2015
Posts: 292

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2017 2:40 am    Post subject: New Costume Standard: Leia Organa- Raddus Bridge Gown Reply with quote

Below is my standard proposal for The Last Jedi Leia- Raddus Bridge Gown.

I know the movie is new however with so many people making the costume I wanted to start a formal detail discussion so costumers and judges had a place to reference important details. Hope it is helpful! Lets get this going!

1) Outer Coat
a. The coat should be made of a black or very dark gray fabric with a basket weave featuring a square pattern. The fabric should have a silver-metallic sheen
b. The fabric must be rigid enough such that the collar and sleeves stand stiff when worn. The collar and front sections of the coat should be self-lined
c. The coat features a shoulder seam, mid back seam, side seam, and back collar seam. There is no collar seam on the front portions of the coat
d. The coat has a standing collar that hits just under the hairline in back and no more than 1 inch from the bottom of the chin in front
e. The coat sleeves should angle up from the body, starting 3-4 inches/7.6-10 cm past the fingertips close to the torso and ending about half way between the wrist and proximal knuckle. The sleeve is folded kimono style and is attached to the main coat just under the armpit in front and at the lower shoulder blade in back. The sleeves can be self-lined or lined with black fabric
f. The coat length should reach or be no higher than .5 inches/1.3 cm off of the floor

2) Under Dress
a. A light charcoal gray under dress
b. The dress is long sleeved and has no top-stitching around the bottom hem, belt band, sleeves or neckline
c. The dress features a front center seam.
d. The dress features a split neckline, the top of the neckline starts at the clavicle and the split extends down roughly 4 inches/10 cm
e. The dress is gathered at the front at empire waistline level
f. There is a front band 1.5 to 2 inches/3.8-5 cm wide at empire waistline level starting under one side breast and extending across the front of the dress and ending at the opposite side breast.
g. The sleeves of the dress end at wrist level and the bottom hem of the dress ends 2 inches from the floor.

3) Hair
a. The front of the hair is styled swept back in front with a twisted band across the top of the head
b. There is a bouffant style hair bump at the crown of the head approximately 3 inches/ 7.6 cm in height
c. The front twisted band is hidden on the sides by sections of hair above the ears – these sections are pinned under the bouffant hair in the back of the head
d. There are two low loose buns pinned to the bottom of the hairline covering the back of the head horizontally. The buns start vertically at the half-way point of the ear and ending at the half-way point of the neck
e. Naturally-occurring hair color only (brown with a touch of gray recommended); no bangs. If a wig or extensions are used, they must be of high quality and appear like real hair

4) Shoes
a. Black round-toe boots with dark soles

5) Jewelry
a. Screen accurate gold or bronze ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear
b. A screen accurate gold or bronze wrist cuff approximately 3 inches/7.6 cm wide worn on the right wrist consisting of a thin wired effect. The wrist cuff should feature a gradual wave pattern
c. A screen accurate gold or bronze ring with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger
d. A screen accurate gold or bronze blue tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger

Optional Items:
1) A screen accurate tracking device worn on the left wrist colored to match visual references and held with a ¼ inch/.6 cm black chord.
2) Natural make-up: matte red-brown lipstick, light blush, light brown eye-shadow, and mascara
_________________

Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 23 Nov 2002
Posts: 1655

Medals: 2 (View more...)
Rebel Legion Supporter (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it would help a lot if you could post reference photos for all the things that are mentioned in the standards. That way it's also not only up to the people who have already studied the photos to make comments and suggestions.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Lora Skywalker ()
Detachment XO
Detachment XO


Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Posts: 6589

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Our current reference gallery: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/?portfolio=leia-organa-the-last-jedi-grey-gown-and-coat
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
plushie (Shana Rich)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 06 Sep 2011
Posts: 1142
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Medals: 2 (View more...)
Colorado Wildfires 2012 Relief Award (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's helpful, this article states the coat is tweed.

https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/last-jedi-costume-designer-his-inspiration-1068776
_________________
Alpha 75 - "No Instructions? No problem!"
FISD - First Order
501st Pathfinder
RLGS, RLSC


https://www.gofundme.com/a2e82f-psychiatric-service-dog-help
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Lora Skywalker ()
Detachment XO
Detachment XO


Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Posts: 6589

Medals: None

PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All information is helpful. Smile
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 21 Apr 2015
Posts: 292

Medals: None

PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

plushie wrote:
If it's helpful, this article states the coat is tweed.

https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/last-jedi-costume-designer-his-inspiration-1068776


I saw that article thanks for posting! I think it’s likely a plain weave tweed if it is tweed as the interviewer says but am not sure we should require tweed fabric... thoughts?
_________________

Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Blue (Beth)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 26 Apr 2005
Posts: 2265
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Medals: None

PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe something like tweed fabric preferred? Then at least the information is right there.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
LaV317 (LaVonne)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 22 Dec 2011
Posts: 731
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Medals: None

PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Preferred, but not required. Maybe, a fabric that is close in weave/texture.

Edit:

A quote from an interview with Michael Kaplan (mentions both cloaks):

"She has two costumes that are somewhat similar because they're both capes. One is metallic woven fabric and the other one which is much more simple — a gray-green cape that she wears until the end of the film. I love how it frames her face. Rian loved how it looked when [the camera] hit her face and you just saw her eyes. Toward the end of the film, there's a beautiful shot of her looking above the cape, with just her eyes, with the the collar spiraling around her head and face. It's a beautiful moment."
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 21 Apr 2015
Posts: 292

Medals: None

PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue wrote:
Maybe something like tweed fabric preferred? Then at least the information is right there.


This may be semantics but if I read the article right it is the interviewer saying tweed not the costume designer which just makes me question the validity...

LaV317 wrote:
Preferred, but not required. Maybe, a fabric that is close in weave/texture.

Edit:

A quote from an interview with Michael Kaplan (mentions both cloaks):

"She has two costumes that are somewhat similar because they're both capes. One is metallic woven fabric and the other one which is much more simple — a gray-green cape that she wears until the end of the film. I love how it frames her face. Rian loved how it looked when [the camera] hit her face and you just saw her eyes. Toward the end of the film, there's a beautiful shot of her looking above the cape, with just her eyes, with the the collar spiraling around her head and face. It's a beautiful moment."


So should we change the wording of coat to cape?
_________________

Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
LaV317 (LaVonne)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 22 Dec 2011
Posts: 731
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Medals: None

PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the grey one can be considered a coat, as it does have actual 'sleeves', and fits the body like an overcoat. It appears that the gray/green (olive) one is more of a cape/drape.
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Lora Skywalker ()
Detachment XO
Detachment XO


Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Posts: 6589

Medals: None

PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This one is definitely a coat, not a cape.
_________________
DXO of Royalty & Senatorial detachment

Detachment website: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 23 Nov 2002
Posts: 1655

Medals: 2 (View more...)
Philippines Typhon Relief (Amount: 1)

PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also think that we should not write tweed. Unless it comes straight from the costume designer I don't trust when second or third parties talk about what kind of materials were used, to be hones a lot of them don't know enough about fabric to identify them correctly.

With that being said I would also remove the reference to basketweave, and only keep th square pattern, since that allows for more flexibility when it comes to fabric choice. Tweed if for example not basketweave, but can have a square pattern. I also don't think it is a basketweave, since the fabric lacks the over/under aspect of basketweave and is more rows of uniform squares.

The coat should be made of a black or very dark gray fabric with a basket weave featuring a square pattern. The fabric should have a silver-metallic sheen

Remove in red.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
LaV317 (LaVonne)
Legion Costume Judge
Legion Costume Judge


Joined: 22 Dec 2011
Posts: 731
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Obi Anne wrote:
I also think that we should not write tweed. Unless it comes straight from the costume designer I don't trust when second or third parties talk about what kind of materials were used, to be hones a lot of them don't know enough about fabric to identify them correctly.

With that being said I would also remove the reference to basketweave, and only keep th square pattern, since that allows for more flexibility when it comes to fabric choice. Tweed if for example not basketweave, but can have a square pattern. I also don't think it is a basketweave, since the fabric lacks the over/under aspect of basketweave and is more rows of uniform squares.

The coat should be made of a black or very dark gray fabric with a basket weave featuring a square pattern. The fabric should have a silver-metallic sheen

Remove in red.


This.

And just for clarification, the quote I posted above was from the costume designer, and he did not mention tweed specifically, but rather 'metallic woven' fabric. (He could have meant tweed, but didn't state it directly.)

I feel we do need a wee bit of wiggle room as far as fabric selections for some of these costumes. Trust me, I'm all about screen accuracy and quality (I'm the costumer/designer for our college theatre department), but sometimes the search for these specialty fabrics is like the quest for the Holy Grail. Especially if (like me), you live in an area that has just a few fabric stores.

I just want to add, great work to everyone researching/building these costumes! Back to work I go on Version 2! Laughing
_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
Active Legion Member


Joined: 21 Apr 2015
Posts: 292

Medals: None

PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 3:53 pm    Post subject: Re: New Costume Standard: Leia Organa- Raddus Bridge Gown Reply with quote

ok changes made:

Daughter of Alderaan wrote:
Below is my standard proposal for The Last Jedi Leia- Raddus Bridge Gown.

I know the movie is new however with so many people making the costume I wanted to start a formal detail discussion so costumers and judges had a place to reference important details. Hope it is helpful! Lets get this going!

1) Outer Coat
a. The coat should be made of a black or very dark gray fabric woven silver metallic fabric. The fabric should weave should give the impression of a neat square pattern.
b. The fabric must be rigid enough such that the collar and sleeves stand stiff when worn. The collar and front sections of the coat should be self-lined
c. The coat features a shoulder seam, mid back seam, side seam, and back collar seam. There is no collar seam on the front portions of the coat
d. The coat has a standing collar that hits just under the hairline in back and no more than 1 inch from the bottom of the chin in front
e. The coat sleeves should angle up from the body, starting 3-4 inches/7.6-10 cm past the fingertips close to the torso and ending about half way between the wrist and proximal knuckle. The sleeve is folded kimono style and is attached to the main coat just under the armpit in front and at the lower shoulder blade in back. The sleeves can be self-lined or lined with black fabric
f. The coat length should reach or be no higher than .5 inches/1.3 cm off of the floor

2) Under Dress
a. A light charcoal gray under dress
b. The dress is long sleeved and has no top-stitching around the bottom hem, belt band, sleeves or neckline
c. The dress features a front center seam.
d. The dress features a split neckline, the top of the neckline starts at the clavicle and the split extends down roughly 4 inches/10 cm
e. The dress is gathered at the front at empire waistline level
f. There is a front band 1.5 to 2 inches/3.8-5 cm wide at empire waistline level starting under one side breast and extending across the front of the dress and ending at the opposite side breast.
g. The sleeves of the dress end at wrist level and the bottom hem of the dress ends 2 inches from the floor.

3) Hair
a. The front of the hair is styled swept back in front with a twisted band across the top of the head
b. There is a bouffant style hair bump at the crown of the head approximately 3 inches/ 7.6 cm in height
c. The front twisted band is hidden on the sides by sections of hair above the ears – these sections are pinned under the bouffant hair in the back of the head
d. There are two low loose buns pinned to the bottom of the hairline covering the back of the head horizontally. The buns start vertically at the half-way point of the ear and ending at the half-way point of the neck
e. Naturally-occurring hair color only (brown with a touch of gray recommended); no bangs. If a wig or extensions are used, they must be of high quality and appear like real hair

4) Shoes
a. Black round-toe boots with dark soles

5) Jewelry
a. Screen accurate gold or bronze ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear
b. A screen accurate gold or bronze wrist cuff approximately 3 inches/7.6 cm wide worn on the right wrist consisting of a thin wired effect. The wrist cuff should feature a gradual wave pattern
c. A screen accurate gold or bronze ring with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger
d. A screen accurate gold or bronze blue tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger

Optional Items:
1) A screen accurate tracking device worn on the left wrist colored to match visual references and held with a ¼ inch/.6 cm black chord.
2) Natural make-up: matte red-brown lipstick, light blush, light brown eye-shadow, and mascara

_________________

Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
ibejedi (Heather Tanner)
Mos Eisley Base XO
Mos Eisley Base  XO


Joined: 13 Apr 2016
Posts: 366
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Medals: None

PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just checked out the reference images you have -- I have a few more that you don't have posted -- would you guys like me to send them to you, or post a link? Also, I've found two decent hair tutorials that give fairly accurate instructions. Just wanting to make sure anyone working on this one has all the info possible Smile

One question regarding the back collar seam -- are you referring to a vertical seam that joins the halves of the collar (in line with the back seam of the coat), or a seam attaching it to the coat (but only in the back). I haven't seen a seam attaching it to the coat, so if that's what it's referring to, I'm wondering what specific reference image that is in regards to?

Anyway, thanks for all the hard work and getting this all in writing! I'm off to work on my version 2 Smile
_________________
Heather "ibejedi"
Beggar's Canyon Command Post Duty Officer
Now or Never Creations and Cosplay: https://www.facebook.com/nowornever2016

Stay afraid, but do it anyway. What's important is the action. You don't have to wait to be confident. Just do it and eventually the confidence will follow. - Carrie Fisher
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Royalty/Senatorial -> RLGS Archive All times are GMT
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can post calendar events in this forum
The Rebel Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred volunteer Rebel costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © 2019 Lucasfilm Ltd. & ™ All rights reserved. Used under authorization.


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group