New Costume Standard: Leia Organa- Raddus Bridge Gown

Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)

Below is my standard proposal for The Last Jedi Leia- Raddus Bridge Gown.

I know the movie is new however with so many people making the costume I wanted to start a formal detail discussion so costumers and judges had a place to reference important details. Hope it is helpful! Lets get this going!

1) Outer Coat
a. The coat should be made of a black or very dark gray fabric with a basket weave featuring a square pattern. The fabric should have a silver-metallic sheen
b. The fabric must be rigid enough such that the collar and sleeves stand stiff when worn. The collar and front sections of the coat should be self-lined
c. The coat features a shoulder seam, mid back seam, side seam, and back collar seam. There is no collar seam on the front portions of the coat
d. The coat has a standing collar that hits just under the hairline in back and no more than 1 inch from the bottom of the chin in front
e. The coat sleeves should angle up from the body, starting 3-4 inches/7.6-10 cm past the fingertips close to the torso and ending about half way between the wrist and proximal knuckle. The sleeve is folded kimono style and is attached to the main coat just under the armpit in front and at the lower shoulder blade in back. The sleeves can be self-lined or lined with black fabric
f. The coat length should reach or be no higher than .5 inches/1.3 cm off of the floor

2) Under Dress
a. A light charcoal gray under dress
b. The dress is long sleeved and has no top-stitching around the bottom hem, belt band, sleeves or neckline
c. The dress features a front center seam.
d. The dress features a split neckline, the top of the neckline starts at the clavicle and the split extends down roughly 4 inches/10 cm
e. The dress is gathered at the front at empire waistline level
f. There is a front band 1.5 to 2 inches/3.8-5 cm wide at empire waistline level starting under one side breast and extending across the front of the dress and ending at the opposite side breast.
g. The sleeves of the dress end at wrist level and the bottom hem of the dress ends 2 inches from the floor.

3) Hair
a. The front of the hair is styled swept back in front with a twisted band across the top of the head
b. There is a bouffant style hair bump at the crown of the head approximately 3 inches/ 7.6 cm in height
c. The front twisted band is hidden on the sides by sections of hair above the ears – these sections are pinned under the bouffant hair in the back of the head
d. There are two low loose buns pinned to the bottom of the hairline covering the back of the head horizontally. The buns start vertically at the half-way point of the ear and ending at the half-way point of the neck
e. Naturally-occurring hair color only (brown with a touch of gray recommended); no bangs. If a wig or extensions are used, they must be of high quality and appear like real hair

4) Shoes
a. Black round-toe boots with dark soles

5) Jewelry
a. Screen accurate gold or bronze ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear
b. A screen accurate gold or bronze wrist cuff approximately 3 inches/7.6 cm wide worn on the right wrist consisting of a thin wired effect. The wrist cuff should feature a gradual wave pattern
c. A screen accurate gold or bronze ring with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger
d. A screen accurate gold or bronze blue tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger

Optional Items:
1) A screen accurate tracking device worn on the left wrist colored to match visual references and held with a ¼ inch/.6 cm black chord.
2) Natural make-up: matte red-brown lipstick, light blush, light brown eye-shadow, and mascara
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Photos by Robbins Studios

In Progress:Padme Loyalist Gown, Leia Raddus Bridge

Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius) · Posted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:57 am Post subject:

I think it would help a lot if you could post reference photos for all the things that are mentioned in the standards. That way it's also not only up to the people who have already studied the photos to make comments and suggestions.

Lora Skywalker () · Posted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 7:54 pm Post subject:

Our current reference gallery: http://www.senate.rebellegion.com/?portfolio=leia-organa-the-last-jedi-grey-gown-and-coat
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plushie (Shana Rich) · Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 11:01 pm Post subject:

If it's helpful, this article states the coat is tweed.

https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/last-jedi-costume-designer-his-inspiration-1068776
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Lora Skywalker () · Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 11:12 pm Post subject:

All information is helpful. Smile

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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt) · Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:43 am Post subject:

Blue (Beth) · Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 1:22 pm Post subject:

Maybe something like tweed fabric preferred? Then at least the information is right there.

LaV317 (LaVonne) · Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:08 pm Post subject:

Preferred, but not required. Maybe, a fabric that is close in weave/texture.

Edit:

A quote from an interview with Michael Kaplan (mentions both cloaks):

"She has two costumes that are somewhat similar because they're both capes. One is metallic woven fabric and the other one which is much more simple — a gray-green cape that she wears until the end of the film. I love how it frames her face. Rian loved how it looked when [the camera] hit her face and you just saw her eyes. Toward the end of the film, there's a beautiful shot of her looking above the cape, with just her eyes, with the the collar spiraling around her head and face. It's a beautiful moment."
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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt) · Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 8:40 pm Post subject:

LaV317 (LaVonne) · Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 9:18 pm Post subject:

I think the grey one can be considered a coat, as it does have actual 'sleeves', and fits the body like an overcoat. It appears that the gray/green (olive) one is more of a cape/drape.
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Lora Skywalker () · Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:43 pm Post subject:

This one is definitely a coat, not a cape.
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Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius) · Posted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 7:48 am Post subject:

I also think that we should not write tweed. Unless it comes straight from the costume designer I don't trust when second or third parties talk about what kind of materials were used, to be hones a lot of them don't know enough about fabric to identify them correctly.

With that being said I would also remove the reference to basketweave, and only keep th square pattern, since that allows for more flexibility when it comes to fabric choice. Tweed if for example not basketweave, but can have a square pattern. I also don't think it is a basketweave, since the fabric lacks the over/under aspect of basketweave and is more rows of uniform squares.

The coat should be made of a black or very dark gray fabric with a basket weave featuring a square pattern. The fabric should have a silver-metallic sheen

Remove in red.

LaV317 (LaVonne) · Posted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 5:58 pm Post subject:

Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)

ok changes made:

ibejedi (Heather Tanner) · Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 5:26 pm Post subject:

I just checked out the reference images you have -- I have a few more that you don't have posted -- would you guys like me to send them to you, or post a link? Also, I've found two decent hair tutorials that give fairly accurate instructions. Just wanting to make sure anyone working on this one has all the info possible Smile

One question regarding the back collar seam -- are you referring to a vertical seam that joins the halves of the collar (in line with the back seam of the coat), or a seam attaching it to the coat (but only in the back). I haven't seen a seam attaching it to the coat, so if that's what it's referring to, I'm wondering what specific reference image that is in regards to?

Anyway, thanks for all the hard work and getting this all in writing! I'm off to work on my version 2 Smile

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