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TROS Poe Dameron Costume Discussion and Reference Thread

 
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Dax-Kai (Griffin Reina)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 31, 2019 12:51 am    Post subject: TROS Poe Dameron Costume Discussion and Reference Thread Reply with quote

This thread is the place for all things TROS Poe Dameron related! While costume standards will not be completed until after the movie has been out for long enough to allow the necessary references for the new costume standard format to be gathered, we can certainly start the discussion/framework and can start gathering references an resources in a central location.

Some things that will be useful to the discussion:
-Reference images (along with their source)
-Any possible identified costume pieces (gloves, boots, greebs)
-Sourcing for materials, patterns, costume bits

Here's a breakdown of the elements involved in this costume:

The Scarf


The scarf is a dark olive green color with black silk screening. The exact pattern is hard to determine, but the reference shots here give you a good idea.




The scarf appears to be a pashmina or similar fine fabric with straight weave.


The Shirt

Poe's shirt is a natural (slightly off white) linen weave fabric. The material is believed to be cotton, however any chunkier linen should do the trick. It shouldn't be too heavy so as to be thick, but shouldn't be so light that it is at all see-through.

The shirt has a lot of small details, that I'll try to outline. The basic shape is that of a front closure dress shirt, with standard sleeves and a collar. The front banding has no visible closures, and appears to be sewn from the pant line up to about an inch above the bottom edge of the shirt pockets

The finer details are as follows:

The collar is a standard band collar, slightly taller than the common "Han Solo" style (Mandarin). It also has a band that runs have the height and the full lenght of the collar on the bottom. The construction is actually very similar to a standard dress shirt collar, but slightly shorter and stands up straight (no fold over) and no collar peaks.

I don't have a good picture of this at the moment, but will amend this with one as soon as I do.

The shirt pockets have two small tabs off center on the flaps. These are made of chevron weave webbing,and are sewn into the attachment of the flap, but not anywhere else.



The shirt pockets also have several rows of decorative top stitching. Two vertical, one above the pocket flap attachment about half of an inch, and another that is in line with the lower top stitch on the pocket flap. Both these lines run from the center banding to the arm holes.



The pockets themselves also have 4 vertical top stitches about an inch apart. (4 evenly spaced from themselves and the edge. Size will vary on pocket size)



The shirt also has two oversized epaulets that run from the collar, over the shoulder seam and down the sleeve several inches.




The back of the shirt has a standard yoke that runs across the shoulder blades.



The shirt has top stitching on the underarm seams, running from the edge of the sleeves all the way down the side seams. All the edges of the shirt are top stitched including the collar, front banding (edge and attachment) and the cuffs (these are almost never visible in the film due to his sleeves always being rolled up.


Bag and Bandolier

The bandolier and bag are made of a tan canvas material of a medium-heavy weight.

There are 3 pouches on the bandolier section with the outer 2 being smaller then the 1 center bag. All the bags are capped style pouch with a leather strap attached with single brass rivet, and secured down with a single brass chicago screw post. The pouches all have 2 brass eyelets on their right front corners.





The pouches are secured to a strip of the canvas material that runs from the bag up to the shoulder. This strip is the same material as the pouches and bag, with rounded edges, and 2 rows of tops stitching around the border. The bandolier section is secured with two clasps held to the bandolier with a cross of webbing.



The clasps and the webbing itself has been identified as being from a Czech Army M60 Backpack. These are widely available on eBay.



The back strap is a straight piece of leather angle cut on both sides to attach to the clasps. The rear section attaches to a loop of leather that then attaches to another clasp (same as the 2 on the front) and is secured by a single brass stud screw (same as on the Bandolier bags)



The bag itself is slightly off-squared rectangle about 2-3 inches deep. It has a single front pocket on the center below the top flap. This front pouch is secured with a strap attached by a brass rivet and secured with a brass stud screw the same as the bandolier pouches. This pouch is top stitched down to the bag. The pouch has two brass eyelets on the front right corner.

The bag has a leather top piece that is two layers. The top layer of leather is secured to the bottom layer with 6 brass rivets (one in each corner) The bottom layer is sewn to the flap of the bag and extends beyond the flap and acts as the closure for the bag flap. On the bottom end of the bag is a wire clasp attached to the bag with webbing (clasp and webbing also harvested from the Czech M60 backpack)
The bag has two large eyelets on the right edge (front face when on the hip). The bag has two leather strips attached at an angle to the sides that attach to the bandolier clasps on the front and back. These leather strips are secured by two brass rivets each, as well as being stitched around the edges.




The GunBelt and Holster

The gunbelt is constructed from two layers. A bottom layer about 4 inches wide, and a top layer about an inch and half wide. Both of these are cut on a curve so as to curve around the hips. The belt is a wrap closure with the left side of the larger strip overlapping the right at the small of the left hip. and the smaller strip going from that edge the opposite direction around the top of the larger strip and securing on the far left hip. There is no visible closure. The end of the larger strip is rounded on the top and squared on the bottom.
The top strip is held in place to the larger strip with 5 belt loops. There are also 3 disc greeblies on the front center and right of the gunbelt just to the front of the holster drop.






The drop is comprised of two layers of leather, one that is triangular cut and larger that is attached under the larger top strip of the gunbelt, and a smaller rectangular piece that sits over the larger strip of the gunbelt and is attached under the smaller strip. This runs down over the top of the triangular piece and turns into the holster.
The holster is squared with a straight front, then the side is angle cut downward. the holster has two approximately 1 inch strips running around the middle (just at the bottom of the taper) and bottom of the holster. These complete the holster's squared shape in the back. The main base of the holster stops at the 3rd corner on the back and there is a gap between the two strips on the very back. There are two brass rivets on the back edge of the base holster, just under the top strip.
The holster is secured to the leg with 2 approximately 3/4 inch leg straps that are attached to the holster base (between the triangular and rectangular drop segments). These straps secure on the back of the leg with brass stud screws (the same used elsewhere on the costume)




The Pants

The pants are constructed from a fine nap khaki suede leather.
The front of the pants have a fly closure with an angled extension towards the waistband.



The waistband has 3 wide belt loops. One in front of each hip, and one in the back center. These belt loops have 3 rows of top stitching on their edges.



The side seams of the pants are top stitched with 3 rows of top stitching. The pants have two angled front seams for gussets on the front sides. These have 3 rows of top stitching on the edge and match the side seams on the pants.




The Pants have 3 top stitched seams on the front, and 1 on the back by the knee area, just above the boot. The top front seam angels up and creates a "Knee pad" shape, while the bottom 2 on the front, and the 1 on the back angle down.



The back of the pants have 2 butt pockets. Each pocket has a flap closure that is top stitched on the edges 3 times. The flaps are also sewn down on the sides. The back panels of the pant have a seam running down the underneath the pockets from the waistband all the way to the back knee seam.




The pants belt is a 2 inch belt in a darker tan or "spanish brown" color. It is closed with a silver squared buckled with rounded corners and pitted distressing on the front.



The Gloves

The gloves have been identified as Black Diamond Transition Gloves, that have been slightly altered. They come with yellow leather and some obvious branding embroidered on the top and bottom of the wrist. The screen worn have had 2 strips of leather sewn over the top strap and the bottom wrist to cover the branding, and all the leather has been dyed a dark brown.





The Gloves can be purchased from several outlets, but here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Transition-Climbing-Gloves/dp/B00L31WYRW


The Boots

The boots are a dark brown leather knee high boot. They are constructed with detail seams on the ankle, a flare zipper on the inside seam, and a back seam with a cover panel. The soles are slightly lighter brown in color than the leather.







This is a deceivingly complex costume, with a lot of details, and just about every costume complication. But it is doable. The standard will obviously not be anywhere near as in depth or strict as this breakdown was, so don't fret about that. I am in the process of finding resources for this costume: Fabric links, alternatives, etc. As well as tutorials on the trickier aspects. I will add them to this thread as I get them. For now I hope this serves as a decent guide to the various pieces involved.
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Indy Magnoli (Indy Magnoli)



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are we certain that the pockets on the back of the pants are flapped and not just a top-entry pocket with an extra panel at the top?
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Dax-Kai (Griffin Reina)
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Indy Magnoli wrote:
Are we certain that the pockets on the back of the pants are flapped and not just a top-entry pocket with an extra panel at the top?


Yes, I'll see if I can find a good image of it, but the flaps are inverted sewn on above the pocket, with 3 lines of stitching on the bottom and side edges. The Sides of the flaps are also sewn down so they don't flap around. This makes the pockets not really that usable, but they are never used in the film.
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Indy Magnoli (Indy Magnoli)



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2020 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, please post what you can. I haven't found any good images showing this point. So the flaps are tacked down like Han's vest pockets. Got it.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2020 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Super work guys! Really fantastic breakdown.
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Indy Magnoli (Indy Magnoli)



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2020 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the best photo I have of the back. Pockets look like they could be top-entry...



We're making a pair of these right now, so need to sort out this detail beforehand.

Thanks,
Magnoli
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 2:36 am    Post subject: Re: TROS Poe Dameron Costume Discussion and Reference Thread Reply with quote

Dax-Kai wrote:


The Shirt

Poe's shirt is a natural (slightly off white) linen weave fabric. The material is believed to be cotton, however any chunkier linen should do the trick. It shouldn't be too heavy so as to be thick, but shouldn't be so light that it is at all see-through.

The shirt has a lot of small details, that I'll try to outline. The basic shape is that of a front closure dress shirt, with standard sleeves and a collar. The front banding has no visible closures, and appears to be sewn from the pant line up to about an inch above the bottom edge of the shirt pockets

The finer details are as follows:

The collar is a standard band collar, slightly taller than the common "Han Solo" style (Mandarin). It also has a band that runs have the height and the full lenght of the collar on the bottom. The construction is actually very similar to a standard dress shirt collar, but slightly shorter and stands up straight (no fold over) and no collar peaks.

I don't have a good picture of this at the moment, but will amend this with one as soon as I do.

The shirt pockets have two small tabs off center on the flaps. These are made of chevron weave webbing,and are sewn into the attachment of the flap, but not anywhere else.





The chevron weave webbing=twill tape
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