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Ep 9 tROS General Leia WIP
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2020 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does look like it will be a very comfortable costume to wear. Smile
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2020 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Lora Skywalker"]It does look like it will be a very comfortable costume to wear. Smile[/quote]

Haha! That's partly how I pick my costumes!
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done a lot more blouse fabric research.

I found the perfect fabric in 2 places, ONLY one is in Germany and it would cost a ton and the other, doesn't have enough left! In fact, I just checked and they were sold out. UGH!
Still here's a link and photo of what I think is the perfect fabric.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/617263096/05-m-kokka-double-gauze-bordeaux?ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-3



Since I can't get that fabric, I narrowed it down to these two. The first one is lighter rose-colored, which it looks like in a lot of our still photos of the actual costume. But on screen, and natural lighting the blouse is darker. So I have orderd the second one listed and will start on the blouse when I get it.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/669228683/organic-cotton-doublegauze-muslin?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_low-low_b-craft_supplies_and_tools-fabric_and_notions-fabric&utm_custom1=e57d6e3c-6b79-47f7-967d-880eb4b1384a&utm_content=go_6721326405_86204092784_388342220597_aud-496171762479:pla-295916403786_c__669228683&utm_custom2=6721326405&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhtT1BRCiARIsAGlY51KmFMd0q_sf0PRY3_F_AFTpLQYNHComxWBr_Szvga2CNCiiQy-h3YMaAvnmEALw_wcB



https://www.fabricwholesaledirect.com/products/cotton-gauze-fabric?variant=29178845036659

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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EDIT!!! 7/2/2020
I finally figured out the belt. It is NOT with tubing or slide buckles, but I’m leaving all the belt posts so you can see how changes progressed.

Original post:
I've been fiddling around with hardware and jewelry parts for a few months now and think I finally have a way to make the belt. Not perfect, but it should work.
There are links here are for the parts I bought to make the jewelry/link part of the belt. (The buckle and leather and unseen parts of the belt will come later.)

bra buckle:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K21XG8R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

plastic tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BD0G0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

brass sheeting:
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/hardware/metal-sheets-and-rods/sheet-metal/5686720

I cut 1 and 5/8" pieces of tubing and slit them lengthwise. The split tube then fits around one side of two links and joins them together. It's fairly strong. Then I am wrapping brass sheeting around the tubing.

The pictures show just the raw elements and very beginning of this process. The finished product will be more tarnished looking. (For some reason all my photos won't link. I'll try separate posts for the ones that dropped off this post.)

Tubing:



[img]https://i.imgur.com/gxgb3qf.jpg?1[/img]



[img]https://i.imgur.com/gxgb3qf.jpg?1[/img]

Links:

[img]https://i.imgur.com/EelEg4p.jpg?1[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/EelEg4p.jpg?1[/img]

Brass sheeting:





The brass sheeting is loose in this photo. I haven't perfected how to tighten it yet, but it looks good.



Here's an idea of what a single run at about 8", 10 links, would look like.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/Y64eSbk.jpg?1[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/Y64eSbk.jpg?1[/img]



I think that once the buckle is added, I'll only need 6-8 links each run.



Last edited by doinit4carrie (Amy Young) on Mon Jul 06, 2020 1:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some of my photos from imgur just won't stick!
here is a link to my account so you see the rest of the belt making photos.

https://doinit4carrie.imgur.com/all
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm currently pulling my hair out over this belt!

I thought I had it figured out, but there are a couple of problems.

The brass sheeting is very difficult to roll down tightly and keep together. Placing it over the plastic tubing makes that piece look fat like big macaroni. I have experimented with just the brass, that doesn't work because it won't tighten enough to keep from having a gap. If I compress it tighter it just wraps around the links and doesn't create a tube.

I then decided to use metal tape around the plastic tubing. This seems to work. I had silver on hand, and some gold spray paint, so I painted over the tape to get an idea. It looks good but rubs off too easily. I'm thinking of trying gold tape with dulling spray and then brush with a black wash to get the patina look.

But the size of the tubing is bugging me too. If I get a thinner tube, the inside diameter is not enough and then the whole thing flattens out when trying to span over 2 links. Does this matter? Yes.

Then there is a matter of the size of the slide/link. The 1.5" looks good sitting in front of you, but add another set below and this makes for a very wide belt. But maybe that's okay. It's decorative. It also may just look a little big on me because I'm 5'1". With this in mind, I tried a shorter length slide/link, 1". But it's looking too square and frankly not so impressive as the larger one, even with two sets running one on top of the other. I also tried the original oval slide buckle idea with the metal tape covered tubing. It kind of falls into the same unimpressive looking category.

Conclusion? The larger links and larger tubing (that won't flatten out), covered with metal tape is probably best as a base. The links will get sanded and dulled and sprayed with a dull gray. I'll use gold tape over plastic tubing, either sanded or lay a dulling spray over them. Then the black spotting and wash for a patina.

Why plastic tubing? There are no brass beads or tubing available that are slit along the length to roll around the link sides. That's why I tried the sheeting.
I suppose a jeweler with the right tools could make the right wire for links and make the brass beads. But I am not a jeweler, so this is my best shot.

https://imgur.com/a/KiGCUYb
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doinit4carrie (Amy Young)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2020 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE ON THE BELT MAKING...
Forget most of what I posted previously, it's not working!

I'm currently trying other types of bendable wire and small hard plastic tubing and am still looking for just the right brass tubing that would work.

Part of my problem is not having the right tools. I've talked with a few of my base friends who are good at this sort of thing and we are working on it.

In other news, I'm still waiting on the shirt material to show up. I ordered it just as the supplier was slowing down their delivery schedule because of COVID.

Meanwhile, I did make a Force Ghost Leia. Not approvable, but nice to have.

More soon, I hope.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I DID IT!! FIGURED OUT THE BELT!!! IT'S LOOKING GOOD!

So forget everything I suggested for the belt before.

I had success using 1/4" brass pipe and 18 gauge aluminum wire.

I bought this pipe cutter:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBMQN2Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I bought 3 packs of this brass pipe:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z98SQC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought my wire at ACE. Hillman brand. See photos. Amazon has wire, but the spools were for a lot more than I needed.

So I have some really nice looking pieces ready to make a whole belt. I need to get the buckle 3D printed and finished. I also need to get the leather needed to attached the metal parts of the belt to the buckle and for the back, under the cloak.

I'm really excited. It feels like a turning point!

Here are pics of the materials and how I made the metal parts of the belt.
(Some of my pics won't post, don't know why, so here is the link to my photo imgur page. Look in the album labeled "BELT".)

https://doinit4carrie.imgur.com/all

To make this part of the belt you will need to:
- cut 1.5" pieces of 1/4' diameter brass pipe.
- Cut several 4" pieces of aluminum wire.
- wire cutters
- needlenose pliers

(You need to estimate the length you will need from about your belly button to your side/waistline. The width of each "link" is about 3/8" wide. Add it all up and divide to estimate how long to make it and how many pieces of brass you'll need. Make more than you think you need. You may need to make it longer or replace parts. I have a 32" waistline. I used, so far, 14 pieces of 1.5" brass tube for each metal section of the belt. There are 4 sections.)

Once you cut the brass into smaller pieces, start with 1 4" piece of wire inserted into the tube. Center. Bend each end of the wire into right angles. Then hold the end of needlenose pliers closely to the wire near each end of brass tube. Fold the wire down on each end. these will be the top and bottom between each brass tube piece. They should be about 3/8" wide.
Then slip another brass tube onto one end of the cut wire, then slowly, but forcefully guide the rest of the wire into the other end of the tube. square it up using the pliers and by hand. Keep going by inserting another wire into the same brass pipe you just finished.



[img]https://i.imgur.com/mFeNUcG.jpg?1[/img]



[img]https://i.imgur.com/MKJAZFv.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/DC3YZho.jpg?1[/img]







I also experimented with some treatment to age the brass. I used a little black acrylic paint. Just barely brushed a little on then blotted with a paper towel. I also put a clear Satin varnish on top of that to dull the brass. What do you think? (See below)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2020 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While I wait for more brass and getting the buckle made for the belt, I'll switch gears to the problem child of this costume - the cloak. Thanks to a member of Bun Squad, I got referred to a costume maker who may be able to make the material. Anticipating that, I started putting together a file of reference pics and my notes for the construction.
I made these detailed sketches this morning.



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2020 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The belt is turning out really well- I'm so glad the tubing and tool worked out! For anyone else looking, I posted the Amazon links for them them in the resource thread here:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=110626&start=30
The second drawing with the collar and shoulder pad is especially clear- that will be very helpful. I recommend waiting just a bit to send seamstresses notes until the standard discussion is completed. The first draft is up in the standards section of this forum, and I know RogueWic noticed a couple of spots where there may be pleats not in the draft or on the drawings above. You should also add your comment about the color range for the tunic/blouse. Please go give input on that thread- the more eyes we have working together, the better and clearer the standard we end up with will be. Smile

Here's the link:
http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=113352
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Last edited by RebelLady (Kristina Gundersen) on Fri Jul 24, 2020 3:54 am; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2020 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I will add my notes about the blouse color. There really are no other pleats. I'm not great at drawing, but I stood right next to the costume to make those drawings. Should I note that also in the thread?

[quote="RebelLady"]The belt is turning out really well- I'm so glad the tubing and tool worked out!
The second drawing with the collar and shoulder pad is especially clear- that will be very helpful. I recommend waiting just a bit to send seamstresses notes until the standard discussion is completed. The first draft is up in the standards section of this forum, and I know RogueWic noticed a couple of spots where there may be pleats not in the draft or on the drawings above. You should also add your comment about the color range for the tunic/blouse. Please go give input on that thread- the more eyes we have working together, the better and clearer the standard we end up with will be. Smile

Here's the link:
[url]http://www.forum.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=113352[/url][/quote]
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a step by step guide on how to build the Episode 9 Leia belt.

BUCKLE:
I used this 3D print file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783692
If you don't have a 3D printer or know anyone who can print for you, take your business to Mark Tuttle at Printed Propz on ETSY.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/PrintedPropz.

I bought my TFA Leia belt buckle from him and it looks fantastic and is holding up great. I contacted him to ask if he'd make the Episode 9 buckle if I sent him the print file. Once again he did a terrific job!



LINKED METAL SECTIONS:
I used brass tubing and aluminum wire.
-Brass Round Tube, 6mm OD 0.5mm Wall Thickness, Seamless
Straight Pipe (Purchased on Amazon)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z98SQC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- 18 gauge & 16 gauge aluminum wire. (Galvanized or not.)

-Tools used: vise, tube cutter, needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, ruler/tape measure, file, black sharpie, paper towels, thick rubber band, ruler.
(Tube cutter purchased on Amazon)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBMQN2Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Assembly:

- I first measured the distance between the back center of the buckle to the sides of my waist to get the overall length I'd need. I also counted the number of brass tubes in a section of the LFL costume. This will vary on your size of course. I am 5'1", 115 lbs., basically Carrie Fisher sized, so I could copy the costume, which for me was 14 tubes in each section. The distance between them was about 3/16".



- I set up the vise on a corner of my work surface. (Table, etc.) I measured and marked each uncut brass tube at 1.5" between each mark for cutting.




- I wrapped the very end of the tube in a small piece of paper towel with a thick rubber band wrapped around the paper towel. This was to protect the brass tube and to stabilize the tube from slipping while I cut it.

- Then I cut 56 pieces of tubing at about 1.25"-1.5" each. I also filed each end of each tube to get rid of any shavings hanging on.


- Then I cut 3-4" long pieces of the 18 gauge wire. Same number as tubes. (May need more or less
as you go along.)
- Then start with one piece of brass tube and one piece of precut wire. Thread wire through tube and eyeball that it is centered. Then using the ends of the tube as a bending point, bend the wire at each end so it is at a right angle. (Using your hands/fingers.)




- Then with the tip of needle-nose pliers holding the wire right up against the end of the tube, use the point at which the needle-nose pliers sits to bend wire again (with fingers) to make a closed, very tight rectangle.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/MKJAZFv.jpg?1[/img]


You may have to snip off a little bit of wire in the center if it overlaps too much. You need to be able to bend it into the next piece of tubing.

- Then grab another cut piece of brass tubing. Slip it over one end of the wire you just bent into place. Bend it up enough to catch the other side of the bent wire. Then press down into place to create a "closed loop" of two brass tubes held together by a rectangle of wire. Make adjustments to push the wire into shape/place with your needle nose pliers.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/jberYmy.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/D8w9QsP.jpg?1[/img]


- Do this over and over until you get the length you need. Check by holding it up to your waist with the buckle also.
When you have the length you want, insert 3" pieces of 16 gauge wire at the very ends of the finished sections. (16 gauge is stronger and will support the connection points to the rest of the belt better.)

[img]https://i.imgur.com/QRBQZdL.jpg?1[/img]


- Next I weathered the brass and metal links. I used a black sharpie and it worked well. I had tried watered down black acrylic, then a dull varnish, but it really didn't do anything. The sharpie worked best and was easiest. There was already some sharpie ink where I measured the brass to cut it. I dabbed random splotches on the brass tubing and blotted with a paper napkin immediately. This soaked up most of the ink but left a stain on the brass. I decided not to use a dulling varnish because in the process of making the belt and handling the brass, it was already tarnishing a bit on it's own. Imagine how good it will look after years of handling!
[img]https://i.imgur.com/s3FyyeJ.jpg?1[/img]
^Top is acrylic paint, Bottom is Sharpie.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/CQ6EbOr.jpg?1[/img]


- I also decided to wait to weather the brass till after the run of links were done. That way I could see how the black marks looked in relation to the other tubes next to each other.


PUTTING THE BUCKLE AND LINKS TOGETHER:

My first intentions was to use the 1" wide lengths of leather I had to slip through the buckle to hold the links, as well as use for around the back of my waist. But it didn't fill the buckle space well and I could see it was going to put a strain on the buckle itself. So I decided to use the fake leather I had for the buckle itself and the real leather for the back.

Assembly:

Tools for this part: Measuring tape, pins, Brown thread, hand sewing needle, Brown leather thread (waxed),leather needle, leather awl, wood block, 2" utility buckle, binder clips, Xacto knife.

- The fake leather going through the buckle was 2 strips cut at 1 & 1/8 inch width. (Length is just enough to go through the buckle then fold over itself in the back. About 6".)On one edge of each strip I folded over the 1/8" and hand sewed it down using a running stitch. This was just for looks to duplicate the stitching seen on the real costume belt. Unfinished edges go to the top and bottom of the openings in the buckle.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/weMneYM.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/3bfDL6a.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/i0r2oib.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/oZPuPD5.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/lYAoyM5.jpg?1[/img]

- Next I folded the strips in, on top of themselves and sewed each strip shut together.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/maSPMyn.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/pCsAqbM.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/liAHvUT.jpg?1[/img]
(Sewing is a little sloppy, but it works.)

- The next part took a lot of finagling to make things line up just right. I knew there would be too much stress on the buckle to hold onto the links directly. So I created a buffer between the strips going through the buckle and the ones holding the links together. I cut 2 strips of the fake leather at 1&1/2" wide each and about 7- 8" long.
I folded over the edge about 3/16" and machine stitched both edges down.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/iv0FH5x.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/c3f4u43.jpg?1[/img]

- Then I connected two sections of links in parallel with the strip of fake leather. Then again for the second set.
I pinned them closed then placed on top of the back of the buckle to line up the strips in a way that these pieces would be sewn together AND that the ends of the linked sections would not poke out or be seen from behind the buckle. Once everything was in place, I sewed each run of links together by the strip of fake leather, then sewed those onto the back of the fake leather in the buckle.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Ce8Dd21.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/PFQWHi6.jpg?1[/img]

(Then flip it over.)
(Line it up with the fake leather strips on the buckle.)
[img]https://i.imgur.com/nYOh4Tn.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/SFMfK1K.jpg?1[/img]

(Sew it down.)
[img]https://i.imgur.com/q1GagC1.jpg?1[/img]

- This part of the belt is now done!
[img]https://i.imgur.com/UISokAk.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/OweX3Eb.jpg?1[/img]

Onto the back of the belt....
(Use the REAL leather for this part.)

- Using a measuring tape, I held the front part of the belt in place on me, then measured the distance between the end/side of the belt to the center of my back at the waist.
I cut the 1" wide leather to that measurement with an added 4" for looping around the link and back buckle. You will need TWO lengths of leather at this measurement. One each for the top and bottom runs of the belt. THEN, you will cut these two pieces of leather exactly in half. Use an Xacto knife for cutting the leather.

- Starting with the ends of the metal link sections, slip one end of one of your leather strips around the end link. (It should be 16gauge wire at the end.) With just enough folded over the link at the end, hold in place on top of wood block and punch 4 holes through leather with the awl to create holes for sewing.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/78qPW8V.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/DKc9BQX.jpg?1[/img]

- Do this for each end of the metal sections. Then using the waxed brown leather thread and needle, sew these closed using a ladder stitch, going both ways.

- Then hold the belt to your waist again and put the open ends of leather through the ends of the utility buckle. (They should go through the openings next to each other, filling the 2" wide slot.) Adjust the length of the leather through the ends of the buckle to your desired tightness. I used binder clips to hold the loops of leather in place at the buckle ends while I made other adjustments.

- Cut any extra leather off the end. You only need about an inch looped back over. Then using the awl and wood block, make 4 holes in each loop and sew as you did on the metal section ends.


- The belt is finished!

[img]https://i.imgur.com/FM3o48u.jpg?1[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/P1J44AJ.jpg?1[/img]




If you have questions message me.

I also have all of the above info and photos in a separate document I can send you.

I was very frustrated with this belt, but once I got it, it was fun to make!
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