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Dyeing Process Question

 
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bluelou6 ()



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:22 pm    Post subject: Dyeing Process Question Reply with quote

What is the general process for dyeing?

pre-wash/dry/dye/post-wash?

Do you dye the fabric before you cut it, after you cut it, or once assembled?

I am using Rit dye on cotton gauze.

thanks
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Fuzzy_Jedi_Slippers ()
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pre wash first, I use a special detergent for this purpose, however any will do, but don't use fabric softener. While the fabric is washing prepare your dye bath. I prefer to dye in a large tub, like the kind you find at Walmart in the storage section. I boil alot of water enough to cover your fabric completely when submerged. Mix the dye and the water before adding the fabric. After your fabric is washed while it's still wet add it to the dye bath. How long you keep it in the dye is more art then science. Doing tests of fabric swatches, in advance, is a good idea to avoid ruining large quantities of fabric. When you reach your desired color and shade carefully pull it out and rinse your fabric.

What color are you dying? What fabric? I may be able to offer more advice on the timing and whatnot with more information
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bluelou6 ()



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am dying crinkle gauze. One OT is going to be dyed camel and another dark green.

Do you dye the whole yardage or cut the pieces to the pattern and then dye?


Fuzzy_Jedi_Slippers wrote:
Pre wash first, I use a special detergent for this purpose, however any will do, but don't use fabric softener. While the fabric is washing prepare your dye bath. I prefer to dye in a large tub, like the kind you find at Walmart in the storage section. I boil alot of water enough to cover your fabric completely when submerged. Mix the dye and the water before adding the fabric. After your fabric is washed while it's still wet add it to the dye bath. How long you keep it in the dye is more art then science. Doing tests of fabric swatches, in advance, is a good idea to avoid ruining large quantities of fabric. When you reach your desired color and shade carefully pull it out and rinse your fabric.

What color are you dying? What fabric? I may be able to offer more advice on the timing and whatnot with more information
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Fuzzy_Jedi_Slippers ()
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always try to dye fabric yardage uncut. Your post says your outer tunic is to be "camel". And what will be dark green? I ask because dark colors may require more dye depending on the fabric amount to be dyed.

Your outer tunic may need about 6-7 yards of fabric. Since camel is a lighter color you could try using one bottle of dye.The longer you leave it in the dye bath the darker it will get. What I do is place the fabric in the dye bath, and constantly stir the water. Set a timer for say 10 mins. When the timer goes off, find the end and snip off a 4x4 inch peice. Run your swatch under cold water. If you like that color take your fabric out if not try aging in 10 more minutes.
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EeanLedgor ()
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wrote this dying info and recipe for some of our Anakin* costumers a while back. I think it’s still useful today. For darker colors, the amount of dye is often tripled or quadrupled. For lighter colors, using the recommended amounts (in the isntructions for your project) should be good. Enjoy!

*For Obi-wan Kenobic fabrics, I usually find a suitable pre-dyed fabric, but when I end up dying white cotton gauze I more often use Dharma Trading dyes like: Ecru or Ivory.

First, the fabric:

www.onlinefabricstore.net
You can order "white gauze":
Product ID: GAU126
http://www.onlinefabricstore.net/apparel-fabric/gauze/polyester-gauze/white-gauze-.htm
Or, you can order "brown gauze":
As of October 2017, there is none available.

THE PROBLEM WITH a dark brown FABRIC is that most believe it is too light in color. The ONLY way you'll know is to order a swatch. If you don't order a swatch of dark brown fabric, then if you order it and it's not right...you can still dye it.

Okay...for the white gauze:

-I got it at $4/yard by ordering 25 yards. I don't think you need 25 yards. This fabric, however, is thin and you MUST either double it or add a liner in order to get the right "thickness" and look for the fabric.
I generally use about 10 yards of fabric for the Jedi costumes I've made. All Jedi costumes I've made have been either patterned after Obi-wan Kenobi or Anakin Skywalker. They really use the same costume pattern and the same amount of material. So...you should consider ordering at least 20 yards.
Here's the thing....if you order some fabric, dye it and then decide you need more fabric...you WILL NOT be able to dye new fabric to match what you've already dyed. You really need to get enough and dye it all in the same batch at once. Also keep in mind that loosely woven cottons shrink…a lot. So, unless you’re a small person, ordering 10 yards might not be enough.

For the Dye:

I use http://www.dharmatrading.com/
Here's the chemicals I use for dyeing the fabric:
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3796-AA.shtml?lnav=dyes.html
Dye #1: Dark Brown, PR 35, 8 ounces ($12.14)
Dye #2: Jet Black, PR 250, 2 ounces ($9.25)
Calsolene Oil, CAL 8 ($6.65)******
Soda Ash Fixer, FIX1, 1 pound ($1.69)
And...salt, regular table salt (I use the non-iodized, though it doesn't matter).
******You don't NEED Calsolene oil. This helps the fabric get "wet" with the dye, for a smoother dye (that is it helps the dye not be blotchy). I DO use this, but...I've forgotten a couple of times and as long as you agitate (mix) the fabric in the dye properly, this oil is not a must-have.

Here's my recipe:

For 10 yards of fabric (which is about 2 pounds of dry fabric) being dyed in 13 gallons of water:
The dye mix is:
Dark Brown: 6 tablespoons
Jet Black: 2 tablespoons
Salt: 6 cups dissolved into 3-4 gallons of boiling water. The more salt the better, but I think 6 cups in 3 gallons of water is about as concentrated as you can get it.
Soda Ash: 1/3 cup of Soda Ash dissolved in 2 - 4 cups of hot water.
Calsolene Oil, about 3 - 4 table spoons

The Procedure:

1. Wash your fabric as normal (with detergent). Allow the fabric to go through the spin cycle. DO NOT dry it.
2. Dissolve Salt in 3-4 gallons of boiling water.
3. Mix the dye powders, then add enough hot water to make a slurry. The dye will not be dissolved, but will be all wet so it is easier to add to the washing machine.
4. Dissolve the Soda Ash in a 2-4 cups of hot water.

When everything is prepared:

1. Turn your washing machine on using the load size (probably “small”) that gives you about 13 gallons of HOT water.*
2. Add your dissolved salt water into the washer (before it’s finished filling. Most washers will stop filling once the selected level is reaches, regardless of how much you add. Therefore, if you add your hot water after it’s finished filling, you will have 13 + 3 = 16 gallons of water).
3. Add the dye.
4. Add the Calsolene Oil (if you chose to use it)
4. Mix well.
5. Once the washer has stopped adding hot water, make sure everything is mixed well (I use an old mop handle or stick to help mix)...then ADD WET fabric.
-When the fabric comes out of the washer from being washed, I untwist it and get is all open.
6. Wash on the wash cycle for 30 minutes.
-The wash portion of the cycle (that is, not including the rinse and spin part of the cycle) is finished in less than about 10-15 minutes. You will need to stand by the washer and reset the wash cycle near the end of each wash cycle. My wash cycle on "heavy" runs for about 14 minutes. I set a timer for 10 minutes. At the end of the first 10-minutes, I reset the washer to start over, then time it for another 10 minutes. I do this three times for a total of 30 minutes of agitation in the dye mixture.
7. Once the dye procedure has gone for 30 minutes, I slowly add the dissolved Soda Ash to the washer.
8. Allow the washer to continue to agitate the dyed fabric for at least 20 minutes (30 minutes is better).
THE FABRIC WILL LOOK BLACK!!! DO NOT PANIC!!!
9. I let the washer complete the cycle (drain, rinse, spin, drain).
10. I then remove the fabric, untwist it, open it up, then add back to the washer.
11. Run the washing machine on full load (with the maximum amount of water) without detergent. I do this TWICE!!!
12. Run the washer a third time using detergent, as normal.
13. Dry the fabric.
14. Remove the fabric from the dryer. It is ready to iron and use to make a costume.
The fabric should be dyed a very dark brown and you can also wash this part of your costume without fear of it fading. Of course, you can always re-dye the costume later on, if it fades any.

*How do you know how much water your washing machine uses? Well...the instruction manual might say. But...you can also just fill the washer up with water (using the desired setting) and then stop the washer. Remove the water and measure how much it is.
ALSO...dying in your washing machine will stain your washer, but it can be cleaned with regular soap and water. This will not harm your washer.
Also consider you are mixing some boiling salt water with the washer's HOT water. The dyeing process, therefore, uses very hot water. You need to be careful to not get burned.

PS (This is at least a 4-6 hour job, from start to finish! So...make sure you have the time before you start).

Now…to test to see if you read all of that…
Finally, as with all dying, I recommend you scale the recipe down and do a test run to see how it goes first.

I’ve used this recipe to dye lots of Anakin fabric. As for other colors, I still use this procedure, but (obviously) change dyes for the color I’m trying to achieve.

The Dharma Trading site has lots of tutorials and dye recipes for all of their dyes.

Can you use Rit dye? Of course you can! But…I’ve used them…and the results I’ve gotten were poor, which is why I use the Dharma dyes. I still use Rit dyes, but when I do, I use salt and a fixer.

Animal fibers (wools and silk) use the same principles, but are a little different.

Synthetics (polyester, nylon, etc.) are next to impossible to dye.

Finally-finally…

Dyes are not really the color that’s on the bottle (or package). The chemistry for color is a bit weird. Dyes for fabrics are usually a combination of colors mixed together to achieve a given result to the eye. If you alter the recipe with too much or too little dye for your project, you may end up with undesired colors. For example: black dye really isn’t black dye. It might be a very, Very, VERY dark red….or green….or blue. But dying properly will make it look black. If you dye with too little or too much dye, your black might have a “red” tint (or green tint or blue tint) when held against another black.
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Past Offices held within the Rebel Legion: LMO, Asst. LMO, Legion Costume Judge, DCO and DXO KJO, BCO and BXO Tranquility Base
Writer of many costuming tutorials.
Maker of costume props and costumes for Rebel Legion and 501st members.
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