Tutorial & Supplier Rank Badges ANH

[rc_brooks (RC Brooks)]

After a few iterations and picture comparisons, I have come to the approximate dimensions of 2.5" square with .625" "buttons".

Anyone have other dimensions that they worked to?

Working on a tutorial for the next Comlink and will probably provide templates (as its so small) and would like to get this close to right the first go around.

[Jaren Valnor (Ryan Miorelli)]

Did you ever get a tutorial together? I'm working on a Rebel Mando as a side project, and would really like to add a rank badge.

[rc_brooks (RC Brooks)]

Yeah, though the full writeup as been sidelined, but I will include my templates. Been trying to work out a cheaper way to handle blue buttons, but without success so far. But for red, it's easy.

[Toda ()]

I have been toying with making ANH rank badges myself. Have you made any progress with your tutorial? My back of the envelope calcs. say you are right with the 2.5" (mine are between 2.5 and 3). Have you thought about using bingo chips for the buttons?
_________________
Todd (Toda) - former RAID XO (2017-2019)
Endor Gunner, RFT, Rebel Technician, TFA officer, TFA Trooper, and A-Wing Pilot




"Any pilot who volunteers to fly an A-wing better be brave or crazy. Probably helps to be a little of both."
―General Han Solo

[Commander Cody (Jason R.)]

I can take measurements of my badge when I get home today. I believe it's 2"x2". Look at my Fleet Officer "Need to Know" for a visual reference, http://www.rebellegion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39778

I bought my color acrylic from the website below. The image shows squares, but the text says round (I've ordered from them before and I know it's correct)

Red: http://www.newark.com/eao/01-931-2/lens-round-red/dp/66F9717?in_merch=Popular%20Switch%20Components

Blue: http://www.newark.com/eao/01-931-6/lens-round-blue/dp/31C1874?in_merch=Popular%20Switch%20Components

[DL (Johan Hanson)]

I think that most people use the EAO 01 series pips. I made one for myself with those back in 2005.
Whatever you use, proportions are more important than exact size. Let the size of the pips decide the size of the metal plate.
_________________
Booyegashaaa! Attack the block and the Force awakens.

[Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)]

I will have to try to remember to measure mine...
but I think 2" x 2" sounds right...


it was made with

some thinner brushed aluminum sheeting
I glued a sintra backing

pearl buttons were used (bought at WalMart)
that were just the right shape
that I painted with a translucent paint
then holes were drilled into the aluminum/sintra
the shank of the button fit nicely into the sintra

it came out pretty good....









_________________


http://livefromthegalaxyfarfaraway.blogspot.com/

[Toda ()]

Great info, thanks!
_________________
Todd (Toda) - former RAID XO (2017-2019)
Endor Gunner, RFT, Rebel Technician, TFA officer, TFA Trooper, and A-Wing Pilot




"Any pilot who volunteers to fly an A-wing better be brave or crazy. Probably helps to be a little of both."
―General Han Solo

[Okami Dai ()]

When officers where given rank pips in the forum I decided to make a "real one" for my RFT, too.

I made it from a brushed aluminium/plastic sheet (normaly used for making name badges) with 6,3 x 6,3cm.
The blue points are painted metal rivets (I had left from my DH-17 holster construction) with a diameter of 1,5cm.
The rank badge is fixed with a magnet to the uniform.




Here the rank badge beside the official RL name badge:



All in all I´m quite satisfied how it came out, now I´m waiting for the first trooping for carrying it!
_________________
Okami Dai
---------------------------
RFT
Jedi Knight

[Schph Gochi (Phyllis Schulte)]

looks GREAT!!
_________________


http://livefromthegalaxyfarfaraway.blogspot.com/

[rc_brooks (RC Brooks)]

Man, having twins puts a whole different level of busy on things... but for anyone who might like them, I do have some templates. I'll see about finishing a tutorial as I need to repair my own badge.

www.firetype.net/images/RL/RFOBadge.pdf

material list
Aluminum Sheet .010 thickness (Lowes, smallest pack fine, just needs to cover 2.5" square) @ $2.75 for a pack (can be thinner if you are using a backing)
5/8" dowel rod.
Red and/or blue paint
School glue
4 rare earth magnets (1/4 inch diameter are fine)
e6000 (or other flexible adhesive)

optional parts
1/8th inch light ply, at least 2.5 inch square (michaels,hobby lobby, hobby store) or other firm backing material
e6000 (or other flexible adhesive)

1. Prep. Print out the templates to scale (don't "fit to page" or scale). Cut out the middle template and glue to the aluminum sheet. Pressing it inside of a ziplock with a heavy, flat object will provide the best results. If you are using the ply, you can also glue the right most template to your piece of backing.

2. Safety. Put on your safety glasses

3. The buttons. Mark off the dowel at 1/4 inch intervals. Cut off the 5/8" dowel rod in 1/4 inch thicknesses. My preferred way of doing this is using a lathe or you can also use a drill: IF you have a drill large enough, cut off a 4" section before you mark the individual buttons. After marking it every 1/4 of an inch (for however many buttons you need), chuck the dowel section into your drill firmly. Place the drill on a table edge, with the dowel as parallel to the floor as you can get it. Have a second person securely hold the drill.

Before cutting, you can use a piece of sand paper or a file to slightly round the edge of the dowel.

With the dowel rod section spinning and edge rounded, use a hack saw or hobby saw to cut through the dowel at your first 1/4 inch mark. Let the rotation of the dowel do the work. Keep your saw steady and you will wind up with a flush cut.

After each button is cut, take the sand paper and smooth the next piece before cutting.

After all your buttons are cut out, paint them in the desired color. I recommend several coats. If you want depth, finish them off with a few layers of clear coat.

4. Badge body. Now that the glue is dry on the aluminum, take a pair of scissors (DON'T USE YOUR BEST SCISSORS!) preferably old ones and cut out around the template. After you've cut it out, you can take a file and smooth the edges. If you are doing the ply (or other) backing, cut it out now as well (using a saw... not the scissors obviously).

Soak the aluminum in hot water. After 15 minutes the school glue will release. Wash the badge body off and dry thoroughly.

If you are using a ply backing, paint it in black (or color of your choice) now. After it dries completely, use the e6000 to glue the ply backing and the metal plate together.

5. Final assembly. Using the e6000, glue your buttons to the aluminum. (you can use the first template for a guide if you like) Let it dry on a flat surface (and let it dry completely). After it's dry, flip it over and glue two of the magnets on the back in diagonal corners. After it is dry completely you can then attack it to your uniform using the other two magnets OR use a steel backing. I use magnets for the enhanced strength... though I've used a steel belt buckle as a backing when I've lost my badge in the past.

I'm sure this is all as clear as mud, so I'll try to answer any questions. It's pretty simple and takes less than an hour, not counting drying times for paint and glue. All included with drying times you are looking at 2-3 days depending on temperature and humidity.