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Ewok Village Leia build thread
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All that hard work with patterning looks like it's working out! The shape you've got for the top and the skirt is impeccable, and I am sure it's going to look even better in the actual fabric.
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Blue (Beth)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great! Keep up the good work. Thanks for sharing your progress.
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Princess Liz Fett (Liz Welsh)
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm working this dress right now, I found a much nicer suede hide to use that feels and looks a lot better than the suede on my old dress. (This new one will be my 2.0 version, Lol.)

I'm almost done with the bodice, it's time to add the suede lace around the princess seams and the lace on the v-neck.

On my old dress, I used a very small pair of scissors to make the holes for the suede lacing. But now I'm wondering if I should use something neater. I saw a hole puncher at Michael's that makes holes that are 1/8 the size of the holes made by an average hole puncher.

I may consider buying that to make the holes. Any other advice on making the holes for the suede lacing?
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Blue (Beth)
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would try a exacto knife to make the slits for the lacing.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya gals. Smile
Sorry for the long silence, but thanks for the kind words. I can tell that I still made a few modifications to the mock up after last update, but I think I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.
Time for a massive update!


I finally actually sewed the top and skirt together:






The skirt needed some adjusting, since it was poking too far to the left side piece:


Much better now!

The proof that I've been mocking around with this a lot is in all these seamlines!


And this is the finished mock up from the other three sides. I also moved the seamline between the top and skirt pieces lower on the right side. Fun fact: this skirt is a lot heavier on the left due to the extra layer there:






I made it! I got a mock up done that I'm satisfied with! Very Happy Yeah!

Now on to the mock up of the shirt, in particular the sleeves.
I started work on a pattern by using a pattern I already had for a form fitting shirt. (Same as I used for the flamegown inner shirt as a matter of fact). I made the sleeves looser though:


Then I started sewing the mock up together:




The two rows were placed by putting on the mock up (without ridges) and then marking in roughly were they should be by hand. If you don't like to freehand things I don't know how you'd make this then.

It wasn't too bad for a first try:


But the ridges were too close to one another. You can see here how the second ridge does not lie against the tip of my elbow when bended, but on the outer side of the arm:


Except for that it was looking good, so I decided to start on the actual shirt.
Here is all the shirt pieces drawn onto the ivory fabric I found.


You may (or may not, I don't know) notice that the sleeves was made wider than it was in the mock up. I found I needed more width in particular once I moved the ridges further apart. (As the shirt will be gathered by the base of the ridges at the wrist). Anyway, it was a little tight compared to the movie, so I ended up with the width around my wrist being twice as big as the circumference of my wrist. (You may want to keep that piece of info for future use).

Here's the sleeves overlapping each other:


Then came the sewing. First shoulder seams, then sleeve to shoulder, then sleeve and side closed. (Please note that this fabric does not fray).




Once that was done I put the shirt on and grabbed my water soluble fabric maker for some line making:




I took it off again and drew the first lines and used them to draw in the second line:




And of course, I then found that my two lines were still too close, so I moved the second line further away. The two lines were placed ~12 cm apart. (For reference the total width of my sleeve at my wrist is 30 cm).


After that it was time to sew the ridges. I made them 1 cm tall and started them on my upper arm. No reason to start them all the way up at the shoulder.


Look! It lies on my elbow point!


Success! Mr. Green I have created a shirt with ridges.

Now for the sleeve finish. First was rolling the edge of the sleeve and sew it:


Then came the grey hide strips. I had a hard time finding some grey, flat, suede cord, but I finally did in Copenhagen in the end of May when I was visiting a friend there. I bought a meter and used most of it.




The shirt is done!



I also bought suede cord for my braid in Copenhagen (I wasn't happy with what I had found previously), so wrapped this around my braid an evening when I no longer felt I could sew due to disturbing the neighbors.
I bought 4 meters of this, cut it in half, and then worked my way out to both ends from the middle of the braid. Didn't cut off a lot from the ends, so I'd say 4 meters are right for doing it this way.


I had used black hairbands to tie off the braid (brown would have been even better), meaning that even if the suede doesn't completely cover it, it won't be visible on pics:


This is what the wrapped braid looks like:


This is what it looks like together with my hair on my head. (It's just balancing there).


(I needed a mirror to capture the entire length). Second thing done! Yeah!

Which brings me to... hides!


Lots and lots of hides!


Too many hides as a matter of fact...


But having many did mean being able to place them as best I could to avoid large pieces that can't be used for something in the future. (As it is some of it has already been appropriated for another project by my sister). Wink It also meant I wasn't scared of cutting it, because I knew I had enough to redo a fair deal of the pieces if necessary.
I used the mock up as my pattern and just drew around it on the back of the hide.
Placement: (with room for making the thin strips and the belt)








I forgot to place the sleeves at first, but did it later. All is draw on the hide with my water soluble fabric marker:


Then took the pair of fabric scissors that have been renamed as leather scissors and cut everything out. The pieces was placed to the side and the remains left in the corner.
I remove the blue lines by dotting the hide with a damp cloth.


I also cut the thin strips for the X lacing. They are about 4 mm wide.


Then came the question of how to keep the pieces lined up while sewing it. My sewing machine has no problem sewing through the stuff, but I can't use needles with my hide. (I did try to see if needles could go through, and that stuff has resistance to needles!)
So after chatting with a friend and a fabric shop worker (who also happened to do leather work) I ended up buying some double sided tape, to cut into thin strips so it could keep the hides together while sewing and then being removed afterwards.

Here's how my scraphide attempt went:








The tape can be a little hard on the hide, but it's on the inside and it's only surface damage, so this seems to work alright. Smile

This is what my seamline looks like from the outside:


Not bad, imo.


And that concludes this monster update! I have so many more progress pics than what is shared here, but I think these show the progress off very well. I hope these are helpful to others doing this costume. Most of the progress shown here was made during the beginning of June, though the mock up was done earlier than that.
I hope to soon finish the dress and thus the costume, but I'm traveling around a lot at the moment, so it might be a little while still.
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Puck (Puck)
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is going to look amazing. Awesome progress.

I am coming to your place to steal the pattern pieces and make my own costume Wink
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Puck. And you are welcome to visit. Just remember to return the pattern after use. Wink
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for a new update! Very Happy

Well, to be honest this is from when I had a vacation in the middle of August, but I spend a good part of that vacation traveling around the country visiting people (and trooping), so didn't get around to do the update. And I'm still spending all my weekends traveling for one thing or another... Rolling Eyes

Anyway, on to the bodice!

I started with cutting the tape strips for putting the pieces together:


I try to gauge how many strips I'll need for a given piece as they are not practical to have lying around; they tend to stick to everything given the change.

Then came the slow progress of putting the pieces together:




Yub, this is slow work. I think every seamline takes me at least an hour with the cutting of strips, putting the pieces together, sew them, and finally removing the tape again.

And of course the pieces didn't add up:


Meh. Had me wondering at first, but then I figured it out; the reason is quite simply that my mock-up fabric behaves differently than my hide when curving. The soft mock-up fabric scrunches a bit and the hide doesn't, so whenever I have two curves with one side curving more than the other (aka every princess seam and sleeves) the pieces does not match up. And that meant that despite my careful work on the mock-up I still had to make little changes on the go to make up for that. Fun fun. Rolling Eyes

Anyway, I continued with the other side and this happened:


Oops. Luckily it can't be seen on the right side, but I was very careful to make sure this didn't happen again after having to fix this.


So due to the curving issue, both sides ended up about an inch longer than the middle piece. At least they are longer instead of shorter...

https://www.stofkiosken.dk/yderligere-stoffer-til-jakkesaet-og-dragter.html?page=1&step=50

And of course, the same happened in the back:


Somehow even my straight shoulder seams didn't match up. That one I have no explanation for. I might have forgotten to correct the mock-up. *shrugs*


But I got the shoulders sewn together despite it.



And then I made my corrections:





Okay. Sleeves.
Attaching the first:


And after some changes I got it to almost match up:




And voila! First sleeve attached:




Then I got the sleeve and side sewn together and the result seemed pretty good:


Of course, it's hard to judge when it's only closed in one side. My big fear was still whether it would fit when closed in both sides.

Second sleeve!


I had to discard the sleeve I had already cut out as it turned out to be a bit loopsided and thus unusable. I was very careful to get the new one right for the same reason.
But I used the discarded sleeve for my interfacing test:


Then I cut two strips of interfacing to iron on to the hide where the zipper where to go:




After ironing I cut of the excess interfacing:


Then came the 'fun' bit; 'basting' in the zipper. This was once again done with strips of double faced tape.




And afterwards the tape was again removed.

Then came the true trial; would it fit?




Success! I could get it on and off myself! Yeah! Very Happy This made me so happy, as I would otherwise have had to completely redo the bodice. Whew.


Next up: the skirt.

Here's the sneak peak of the beginning of the work on this:



As always, please comment and ask questions if you have any.
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Nomad Angie (Angie Rivera)
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked out those Hermes lyrical sandals, and they have to be taken to a cobbler and get a hard sole added for outdoor troops. The sole has suede on it and can get ruined walking in the street.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, thin soles are best for indoor use only (and short troops). I currently use a leather pair with a thicker sole, so they can easily be used outdoor. They just aren't the greatest walking sandals. (But then, my feet rarely like sandals in general).

Maybe you could search the summer sales and see if there are any sandals you think could be good? With your new fabric you'll need sandals in a much lighter color than your old ones. You might still be able to find some before the winter footwear completely takes over the stores. Smile
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a make-up test a few weeks ago. Smile

The make-up used: (minus the white powder)


And how it looks applied:




The lipstick has a brownish tone to it to avoid it becoming too red. It's also matte.

And btw. the skirt pieces have been sewn together I just don't have any uploaded pics of it.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GAHRRHHH! I want to hit my head on a wall! Actually, I really wanted to do that last night (and also scream now I was at it), but I'll just keep to a small rant here.

Some of you may remember that I have previously stated that because the front of the dress does not have a seamline down the middle, I didn't think they back should have either, and so I chose a side zipper to avoid an extra seamline.

...

And what happens when I finally get my copy of Star Wars Costumes (SWC) and finally get to the page with EVL on it? THERE'S A FRIGGING SEAMLINE DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE FRONT! And I swear it can't be seen on ANY of the reference pics! I looked specifically for it after seeing it on the picture on the page. jeez
ALL THIS TIME SPEND TRYING TO GET MY PATTERN AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE AND NOW IT'S TOO LATE TO CHANGE IT! Argh! Yes, I do need to do this in caps lock, because I felt so frustrated after seeing that. What is a seamline even doing there?! saber

A frigging seamline down the middle of the costume that no one has ever noticed before... *sigh* Well, my consolation is that since no one has ever noticed it before I doubt anyone will care that it exist in the wider costume community. But I'm still mad at it since I was so happy with my pattern before. Die, seamline... obimaul

...

So to anyone who has made a seamline down the back: you were probably right in doing that. And in the future we know there should also be one in the front.

(Oh, the SWC have some lovely pictures and descriptions of different costumes. Sadly none of the ceremonial dress).
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello again people. Smile

I did a little work this weekend, but sadly I didn't have the time to write an update then. The big news? My bodice is now a dress. Yes, a dress. That only took me about 1½ year from starting the mock up... Rolling Eyes

Anyway, on to the pictures!

First I finished sewing the skirt pieces together:


Then I made a guiding line for attaching my skirts to the bodice:



After that came the process of actually attaching the skirts. That whole tape business again. Took me somewhere between 1.10-1.20 hours to do, including getting the tape removed again.






I cut off the excess material after sewing.

Then came the test fitting to see how it all looked:




Not bad. Of course, there were some corrections to be made. The right side front skirt was hanging too far to the left (too heavy) so I cut off a little there. I also cut off some more in the V neck. And since the inner shirt also liked to be visible I cut the V neck of that a lot larger than before. Proof below:


Sunday I made the sash/belt. I had hoped to get away with only one seamline, but my long piece was a few centimeters short, so I made two seamlines where the knot is. (To help hide them).






The sash/belt was a bit long in one side, so I cut it shorter after taking this pic:


And then monday I decided that if I was gonna do a fitting of the sash with the dress I might as well do it with it all, so I did. Smile
The whole thing (as far as I've gotten) together:


And the braid is still just balancing there, but at some point I will sew it unto the hairband.


That's it, folks.
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Nomad Angie (Angie Rivera)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful!!
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you. I can't wait to have this all done.
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