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WIP - Very Slow Build of Jocasta Nu
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know it has been a while since I posted but the skirt draft is coming along fine. Here is a photo of the front panel without the hem tapering and left leg adjustment. I hope to have this draft finished next week and begin mocking up with a calico. Don't get confused by the right leg annotation though - it's just to remind me this side has a seam allowance.



Also what colour brown would you choose?



The chocolate or the potting soil?

Chat later,

Archivist32
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the skirt I think I would go with the darkest brown.

Good to see you at it again. Smile
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Laura,
Yep, I am at it again and will be for a while as my first pattern draft requires some modifications. I think this pattern will be cut down in to an 'A' line style perhaps with extra flair added by using the slash and spread method. I have been toying with the idea of using some crinkle linen in chocolate if I can get my hands on some. Winter is not the time in Australia for sourcing summer fabrics at all. :-( I will post some photos when I am happy with the prototype, to show the pattern pieces for everyone to look at. This costume is going to take longer than I thought it would. However, I don't mind a challenge to stretch and learn new skills from.

Chat later.

Archivist32
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, those pesky season fabrics. But best of luck finding the right fabric. I only got the undyed raw silk for the tunic so far, so this is still some way off for me. Razz
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just wanted to share photos of the preliminary paper pattern with you all. This pattern is not perfect it will require a number of fittings before the final pattern is acceptable for production.



This photo shows the progression of the longer back hem to the shorter right panel front hem.



This is the left and back pattern pieces showing that each piece has the same hem length.

I have since done one trial fitting and cut upto 6 inches of the two side seams to cut down the bulky fabric gathering at the side seams. This has affected the sweep of the skirt but I think it I can live with this design characteristic. Considering the fabric choices such as crinkle linen with a liner will work to give more body.

Next is the full body fitting on me to show seam and drag line alterations for the final pattern.

Enjoy!
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with the fitting. Smile
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just wanted to ask about the inner tunic. Can I use a long sleeve crew neck t-shirt in chocolate brown or do I have to make a shirt waiste with a high collar and long sleeves?

The T-shirt I am asking about is like this one in chocolate:

[/url] http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bella-Ladies-Long-Sleeve-Jersey-T-Shirt-6500-S-2XL-NEW-/252068383848?var=&hash=item3ab0724c68:m:mF8yOOPMHQoiwXyIyiaEDlQ [url]

Just checking.....

Thanks

Archivist32

[/url]
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The collar doesn't look right for Jocasta. Which is basically always the problem with standard t-shirts and inner shirts. Rolling Eyes
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2016 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I may have a pattern to suit with a high collar. The description reads: A separate guimpe (blouse) has a high collar, two piece sleeves, and buttons down the back.

http://www.lafnmoon.com/Pattern_104_1909_1913_Day_Evening_Dress_p/p104.htm

Can you take a look at the style of the blouse and suggest some changes. I can change the fullness of the blouse by using darts instead of a drawstring and redraw the cuffs to make them finish with standard round cuffs. Is there anything else you would suggest?

Do you have an reference photos for the under shirt for this character? I am also looking at the dickie and sleevelets option. Are there any photos of these for me to copy to make a pattern.

Thanks.

Archivist32.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the detahcment have these photos saved: http://www.kjo.rebellegion.com/?portfolio=jocasta-nu-episode-ii

And to be perfectly honest, I'm too tired to think about pattern alterations at this time. Rolling Eyes Besides I'll admit I pretty much always do my patterns from scratch, because I find that easier than altering a store bought one.
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, here's my last post until university spring vacation. I got the test garment finished and I am really happy with my first original pattern. Laura can you please tell me where to trim the front panel hem to? My thought is to the green line in the photographs. Do you agree? or would you make the hem a bit lower on the front panel?







I am really pleased with the design but it is only suited to plain fabrics and not the crinkled linen I originally thought of. This is because the skirt is cut horizontally to the selvage and not vertical. It has a nice drape and would suit a linen blend. There are several more chocolate fabric options on offer at fabric.com which I may order swatches for. The shirt shown is the one I would prefer to wear underneath it comes right up and sits on my collar bones.

I am am thinking of designing a Japanese Style jacket for the over tunic with the shoulder seams being right on my shoulders not like the traditional placement lower on the bicep. However, that is a project for spring vacation and not now since I have to pack my sewing machine, doll and patterns away.

Please let me know what you think of my efforts.

Cheers,
Archivist32
Tython Base
Australia[img][/img][img][/img]
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crinkling your own fabric - Threads Magazine p. 39 - Issue 186

I've had a really good think about the whole crinkle fabric problem. Basically this month's Threads Magazine arrived with a solution.

While the article does this with buttons there is no reason why the crumple technique wouldn't work with your finished skirt folded in to small pleats.

The recipe for the crinkle mix goes like this:

Lay the fabric on a flat, smooth surface and wet it with a mix of 1/4 white vinegar and 3/4 water. Scrunch/pleat your fabric in your hands, keeping the crumpled folds even. if the fabric will not stay crumpled when released, dampen it more. Continue until the piece is evenly crumpled. Wrap the crumpled fabric with rubber bands. Then dry the fabric bundle in a warm place until completely dry to the touch.

Washing:

Washing, body moisture and heat will release the texture. You have to recrumple your skirt after washing as this finish is not permanent.

Enjoy
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the drape of it skirt. It falls nicely. Smile I would go lower with the top layer and have a less steep finish to it. It should only be a little shorter and it's better to start out a bit too long, than a bit to short. It's so damn hard cutting fabric on. Razz
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fabric Shopping today :-)

I just got home from a trip interstate and managed to score some raw silk and duponi silk for my robe, tabbards and obi.
[img]

This photo was taken with a flash so the colour is quite bright. However, under different lighting conditions the colour is a darker yellow.

Considering the dearth of specialist fabric shops this is the best I could do. I hope it is sufficient to meet standards.[/img]
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hard to tell, but I think the color would be alright. Which part of the costume is the dupioni silk for? I can't think of where if would be used right now without being too shiny. Or maybe you're using the reverse side?
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