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WIP - Very Slow Build of Jocasta Nu
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Laura,
Thanks for the tip about using the wrong side of the duponi so it's not shiny. I don't really have much choice about either fabrics. As I wanted to get a closet match as possible for the both of them. The duponi is for the machine embroidered tabards and obi. The standard specifies that fabric for the tunic has to be different from the tabards and obi. But i realised that it will be very hard to do a colour match if fabric wasn't sourced from the same store because of changes in dye colours. I will show them to Sair and see what she thinks of them up close.

Archivist.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I look forward to seeing pictures of it. Smile
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2016 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

**WARNING this skirt patterns' seam are cut on the bias.** Do not over lock the edges but only use pinking scissors to finish the seam edges. If you over lock them to prevent fraying the pattern pieces edges will stretch.

The pattern pieces are best sewn with a stretch stitch to allow the seams some give in the garment to accommodate the bias cut of the fabric. After you have added the wrap skirt band allow it to hang on your manequin for 24 hours to allow the hem to fall. Then the hem can be trimmed back and sewn up with self bias tape. The bias tape is required because of the semi circular shape of the skirt and will accommodate the decreasing circumferences from the bottom of the skirt through to the waist. I won't be able to do anymore about the hemming now until Christmas week.

BTW, does anyone have a pattern for a dickie for Jocasta's undertunic?

Thanks to Bookworm for her skirt band idea as it worked a treat and gave a nice strong way to hold up my skirt.

[/img]
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to see you again. Smile

There are so many ways to make just one thing and if your method works, then go for it.
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the skirt with the hem pinned up for pressing. This skirt is low ankle length and will partially show my boots. Is that okay?



and



and



Cheers,
Archivist32[/img]
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that should work. I look forward to seeing this when it's ironed and everything. Smile You'll have to take care when storing and transporting this with how it wrinkles.
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All,
I need a Costume Judge's opinion about the length of the tunic and the cut of the tunic band. Please look at the photos and let me know if I have cut the length to long and how much shallower should the tunic band cut be?

Thanks,

Looking to your feed back before I make muslin #2.


Tunic Front


Tunic Side


Tunic Back

I am using princess seams to tailor the tunic because of fitting issues and these will be hidden under the tabards of the finished costume.

Looking forward to your reply.

Cheers,

Archivist32
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say your tunic is too long. It should be about as long the the sleeves of the IT or just slightly longer than the sleeves of the OT. Jocasta's OT sleeves only just reach her wrists. The IT sleeves go over the lower part of the hand.
Also be aware that the edge of the collar curves lightly to the sides. Smile

http://www.kjo.rebellegion.com/?portfolio=jocasta-nu-episode-ii
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Fri May 05, 2017 2:58 am    Post subject: Progress so far with help -- Pick Heavy Reply with quote

Hi,
This is how my over tunic is shaping up with the help of my friend Sair. Please not that the t-shirt underneath is not the under-tunic for the costume.


Tunic Mockup


Tunic Mockup Front


Tunic Back


Tunic Side

Any comments or can I start sewing up the tunic?

Regards,
Archivist32
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2017 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, it looks like your shoulder seam is rather low (hanging down on the arm), but if you add a shoulder tuck then the sleeve would become too short.

And most PT tunics were made with a skirt with the seamline hidden under the obi, so maybe consider doing that to get the same shape of the skirt portion. Smile
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Sair (Sarah Steele)
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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Lora,

Can confirm that the shoulder seam will sit an inch higher on the final tunic. The join of the collar and the right shoulder just wasn't sitting right and it kept making the right side sliding down. Didn't spend anytime fixing it as it was only the calico mock up.

Can you explain a bit more what you mean by a skirt on the tunic? I'm not quite following you.

Thanks, Sair
Sharon's sewing partner in crime Smile
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure, Sair. Smile Here to help after all.

With a skirt, I mean, that the tunic is constructed as a pull over the head tunic, with a seam line around the waist (hidden under the obi) to which a short, but full and closed skirt is attached. So instead of the tunic being a wrap around it's a pullover.
The tabards would hide the transition even in a wrap around, so lookwise it probably wouldn't affect it much, but it does change construction and may change how it sits over longer periods of time. Just something to think about.
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Laura,
Sair and I will get together soon and plan the tunic development some more. In the mean time I have been experimenting with quilting for the tabards and obi. My tabards are going to be 2.45 mts long with 2 seams at the waist to make doing the embroidery easier.

Here is an experimental quilting sandwich that shows the stitch zig zag stitching as referenced in Dressing a Galaxy by Bigger.

The sandwich consists of a Solvy Water Soluable Stabiliser, the proposed thread, calico top layer, bamboo/cotton wadding and a Calico backing layer. I will wash this test swatch to measure shrinkage and see if any issues crop up. The Solvy is a good stabilizer to use without a hoop and allows me to push the fabric around more when embroidering it.



N.B. I haven't copied out the full tabard pattern yet as this is a test swatch. Better to test then to ruin $100 of silk fabric and cry. The next stage will be to do a test swatch with the Solvy, silk, wadding and calico.

So I am having happy sewing adventure.

Cheers,

Archivist
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Archivist32 ()
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh the pain!
After trying to scale up the Dressing the Galaxy photos of the tabards and failing. I realised the actress who played her is way taller than myself! My tracing will have to be shorter and smaller than the original costume. So I will only have an proximate likeness instead of a dead accurate copy. I will have another go at creating the tabard templates again. I am not going to give up......

Cheers,

Archivist 32
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh joy, when the actress is a different height than yourself. Rolling Eyes But your test looks good. Are you going with the dark brown thread or black? I can't remember if you have written this before.
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