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Jyn Erso WIP by Restill

 
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Restill (Jessica)
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Joined: 01 Mar 2017
Posts: 22
Location: Ohio
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 5:06 pm    Post subject: Jyn Erso WIP by Restill Reply with quote

Hello all!

This is my first post other than my introduction, but I've been working on a Jyn Erso costume for a few months now. I've been collecting as many screen-accurate pieces as possible and have been trying to follow TRL standards, in addition to using my own judgement and help from members at RPF. I've been making Star Wars costumes for a long time (15 years!), but I hope to join The Rebel Legion with this build.

My plan is to have the vest, pants, boots, gloves, shirt, amulet, belt, tonfa baton, and gun completed for Star Wars Celebration Orlando, but I also hope to complete the jacket and scarf this year to create Jedha Jyn Erso.

So far I've finished the gloves and shirt, and I would have finished the pants earlier this week but I've been waiting on the proposed standard fabric color to be approved before adding the rectangular details on the webbing strap. I started dyeing the boots, which were Frye Veronica combat boots in whiskey (now in dark brown!), and I have everything I need to have the vest finished in the next few weeks. I've also started priming the gun and tonfa but they need to be sanded once more before I can paint them.

Gloves:


Pants: I chose the color "charcoal", a dark gray, because in different light it looks anywhere from black to medium gray, which is consistent with Jyn's pants color in the color-corrected movie. I did buy black dye just in case, but I truly love this color and hope it will be up to standard ^^



Boots: I have since dyed both boots and hope to finish them with a final coat tonight, 3-2-2017. I'll be working on the boot covers this week!


Shirt and Amulet: The Amulet was made by Inertia Designs and is etched with "Trust the Force" in Aurebesh.


Belt: I predicted I wouldn't have the time to make a Jyn belt by April, so I ordered a gorgeous one from Legendary Costume Works.


Vest: In progress! I'll post WIP shots as I go.

Let me know if you have any suggestions/questions. Thank you Smile
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Restill (Jessica)
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Joined: 01 Mar 2017
Posts: 22
Location: Ohio
Medals: None

PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 4:02 pm    Post subject: Boots update Reply with quote

Good morning.

I wanted to leave an update on the Jyn Erso boots, which I worked on this weekend.

I still have to attach the right buckle as the ones I bought came with a long wire, so I'm fixing them to be the right size. The boots are otherwise completely finished! I spent all weekend working on them, dyeing leather, topstitching, handstitching, and I like how they turned out.

Boot update:

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Restill (Jessica)
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Joined: 01 Mar 2017
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 4:25 pm    Post subject: Vest progress Reply with quote

I've been working on the vest this week and I thought I'd post a few progress shots. It's been going fairly well. It's not finished yet, but I've even started weathering it.

Here was the first step, which was to create a pattern in my size. I ended up using just computer paper and masking tape; masking tape is INCREDIBLY useful when marking seam allowances also.


I cut the fabric with my patterns and started top-stitching. The fabric I used for the front is a 1.9oz ripstop nylon, and the back is cotton twill in a comparable color.


Then I started attaching the vest pieces to the front pieces.


I attached batting and the lining, and this photo shows the vest before the armholes and sides are stitched down.


This is where I am now, after using Otter Wax on the front and back fabrics. I also started weathering the vest using aging crayons, but I am currently working on the waistband, and I still have to tie quilt the back, add the rubber tubes, and the rank badge. This is the last major part of the costume I hope to have finished for SWCO.


Thanks. Smile
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AgnesAUT ()
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Joined: 02 Jan 2015
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Location: Vienna, Austria, Europe
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I already saw your progress on the RPF and you're doing great!
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RL: Alpine Base Austria (Base Membership Officer) / Wretched Hive (Jawa) & Docking Bay 94 Fringe (Jyn Erso) //
501st: Austrian Garrison / Krayt Clan (Jawa) & Imperial Officer Corps (Adm. Daala flightsuit)
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Restill (Jessica)
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Joined: 01 Mar 2017
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Location: Ohio
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 5:10 pm    Post subject: Vest weathering Reply with quote

Thank you, Agnes! Smile

I've already submitted my basic Jyn Erso costume to TRL and have some adjustments to make.
1) I angled the edges of the collar more, in addition to shortening it to 1" from 1.5" (shortening wasn't suggested but it was a change I wanted to make anyway). (Finished!)
2) I also needed to reduce the width of my glove wrist straps to 1" from 1.5", in addition to flipping them right side up - oops! I can't believe I had them upside down this whole time. (Finished!)
3) It was also suggested (not required) that I dye the shirt and pants darker shades. I'd like to have this costume as accurate as possible so I'm receiving dyes in the mail today and will play with dye formulas tonight!

4) I was also told to weather everything more, so I figured I'd post my vest progress here:

Vest Front:


Vest Back:


Thanks very much!
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Restill (Jessica)
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Joined: 01 Mar 2017
Posts: 22
Location: Ohio
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also forgot to add photos from SW Celebration! This is my costume (before adjustments) in natural light. Sorry for the weird face I'm making, Jyn's bangs kept whipping in my face from the wind and it was making me laugh!



Here's one of my original submission photos (before adjustments) where you can see the actual colors of the fabrics I chose. There's quite a difference, isn't there? I'm a little worried about dyeing everything darker, but I'll be testing dye formulas on extra fabric first.



I also wanted to say that it was an absolute joy meeting members of The Rebel Legion and the 501st Legion at SWCO. The energy and kindness emulating from your members was infectious! Thank you for showing a lady a good time. Amadalia
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BroadSword (Marcus)
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks fantastic! I don't suppose you would do a commission? My wife is really good at sewing, but is disabled so it's painful for her to do the work. I'd like to surprise her so I"m looking around.
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Restill (Jessica)
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Joined: 01 Mar 2017
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Location: Ohio
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BroadSword wrote:
Looks fantastic! I don't suppose you would do a commission? My wife is really good at sewing, but is disabled so it's painful for her to do the work. I'd like to surprise her so I"m looking around.


Oh, I appreciate your compliment, and wish I could help! I have never made garments for anybody other than myself and don't have experience with alternative sizing. I'd be wary to try it. Good luck with your search! I can recommend Etsy.com for fairly screen-accurate pieces.
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BroadSword (Marcus)
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Totally understand! Thanks.
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LeiaAurora ()
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your whole costume looks amazing! Great job!
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In progress/planning: Briefing Room Leia, Blue Linen Navy Dress Padme, Endor Leia, Tatooine Poncho Padme & Flame Handmaiden Padme
"This is a Rebellion, isn't it? I rebel."
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UnquietDaisy ()



Joined: 24 Apr 2017
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I too just started my Jyn. I've started with the pants for right now. I chose a black stretch cotton that looks dark grey in some lights.

I have a few questions.

I was wondering how you got the pin tucks on the pants so perfect.

Thanks for idea of using computer paper and tape to make patterns. I was also wondering how you did the vest stretch hem. Is that what its called? I dont even know.

Also i really dont understand weathering?
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Restill (Jessica)
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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LeiaAurora, thank you! I appreciate your rendition of this costume so much, and it's great to have your input.


UnquietDaisy, I have answers! Though with the pants there's kind of an order to it.
First I made the pants with 4 seams: 2 on the sides of each leg, 1 on the front, 1 on the back of each leg. The ones on the fronts and backs are flat-felled seams.

I cut the bottom 1/3 of the pants off just below the knee, so essentially for each leg you have 4 fabric panels to work with. I seam-ripped the outside front panels off of the pants to remove them, which would be replaced with pintucked panels.

This is what I fleshed out in The RPF forum for how I did the pintucks:
"I ended up removing the front side panels and transferring 3 x the shape of the removed panel to fabric to be cut out. I've got pretty thick ankles and the pintucks don't appear to taper, but they do. The un-pintucked fabric ended up being about 28.9 cm on the top and 26 cm on the bottom. I made 25 lines from the seam allowance for 8 pintucks and measured each line to 1.16 cm on top, and 1.04 on the bottom, keeping the lines parallel to the seam allowance line. Each finished pintuck is between 11 and 12 mm wide, from the edge of the previous pintuck to the edge of the next pintuck." This worked for me, but if you have thinner or thicker legs your measurements will be different. Just make sure that you mark seam allowances, and then measure 25 lines between each seam allowance for the pintucks. I stitched each pintuck down before folding and ironing the next one.

Here's what they look like up close (before I dyed my pants darker gray):


I did try this 6 times before I got it right, but the measurements I gave you were my last try. I hope this helps.


For the vest waistband I used the same fabric I used for the front of the vest (nylon for me), measuring fabric to the length you want with seam allowances. Cut the fabric along a fold so that you can just fold the fabric, match the edges, and stitch the seam allowances on each end. This makes a casing for your elastic. I used a 2" elastic for the waistband, but you'll want to cut the elastic a few inches shorter than the casing to create the ruched effect. First, stitch a 2"x2" or 3"x3" square of interfacing to the very ends of the elastic - this will prevent the very ends from ruching, like in pictures of Jyn. Mark the center of the casing, the center of the elastic, and with the elastic inside the casing, pin the centers together. Then stretch the elastic to the ends of the casing. I pinned mine like crazy before sewing it. The trick is, while you sew the topstitching, you want to stretch the fabric and elastic so that the fabric appears normal on the front and back of the waistband. Once you do 3 or so lines of topstitching you'll see the ruching start to work. This was my first time doing this, and it worked exactly the way I hoped it would! I hope it works for you too.

Weathering I'm still learning, but I have a few tips. I'm frustrated because the photos I submitted were taken when the sun was setting, so a lot of my weathering was washed out. Here is the effect on the pants, even though you can't quite see all of it:


For the vest I used fabric wax on everything (which looks SO cool), then I took some old makeup powder and mixed it with some water to make a paste. I applied it with a dry brush all over. I also used a black wax weathering crayon (you can also use an oil pastel) for dark spots. I used the makeup and weathering crayon on the pants as well. You can also use coffee or tea, dye, acrylic paint (this soaks into nylon though unless you make it really thick, but works fairly well on cotton), actual dirt, fuller's earth, for dirtying effects. If you want to REALLY beat things up you can drive over it, drag it behind a car, or use steel wool to rip into fabric grains. Dull scissors work well too. Like I said, I'm still learning, but you just have to play around and see what works best for you and your fabric.
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fleurderys ()



Joined: 05 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 3:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love your costume, the detailing, and the tips on weathering!!

Do you have any tips on how to sew the leather covers to the boots? I'm looking at getting some ombre Lucky Brand Novembres (dyeing that should be interesting), but have ZERO experience sewing/working with leather!

Thanks!!
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Restill (Jessica)
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2017 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fleurderys wrote:
I love your costume, the detailing, and the tips on weathering!!

Do you have any tips on how to sew the leather covers to the boots? I'm looking at getting some ombre Lucky Brand Novembres (dyeing that should be interesting), but have ZERO experience sewing/working with leather!

Thanks!!


Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner! I did some interesting things with the boots, but it worked very well for me. I wanted to machine stitch the topstitching on the boot flaps, but I knew my Singer machine wouldn't cut it through a flap of 8 oz leather, so I bought 3 oz and 5 oz leather pieces with the intent of glueing them together after sewing topstitches across the thinner piece. I also bought leather in the same honey/whiskey color that my Frye boots came in originally, and dyed them to the same color I dyed my boots.

Edit: I should also mention that if you're dyeing boots with a factory finish, make sure you 1) use gloves, and 2) remove the factory finish using acetone or a finish remover (you can buy bottles of this from Tandy or Angelus). I also recommend coating your boots in beeswax after you dye them to prevent the dye from coming off if your boots get wet. I love Otter brand boot wax for this, plus it's sort of an authentic way of finishing/waterproofing your boots.

So first, I drew a pattern onto computer paper and used that to cut out pieces from the thinner and thicker leather. Then I topstitched the thinner leather using my sewing machine. I used an awl to poke holes into the 5 oz leather on one side, and, while using the awl, I poked holes into the boots where the upper and lower flaps would attach to the boot. I then stitched the thicker leather to the boot using heavy duty embroidery thread. Once those were attached, I also used an awl to poke a few holes into the thinner leather and stitched to them a thin strip of leather into a small loop, which would be where the boot buckles would attach. Then I used E6000 to glue the finished 3 oz leather pieces to the 5 oz leather pieces that were now attached to the boots. Finally, I figured out where the boots should sit with my foot in the boot and used E6000 to glue velcro to keep the flaps down. Cassian also had velcro on his boots in the movie, so I felt pretty good about using velcro as a fastener.

I did all this in a weekend! It was a quick project, and fairly easy, honestly. Let me know if you have any other questions!
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fleurderys ()



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, thank you so much for the in depth reply!! Great tips, smart idea using the two different thicknesses.

I scored a pair of the dark brown Veronicas instead for just a few dollars more-- I'm pumped!! I've ordered some leather pieces of varying thicknesses to try to make the boot covers... going to attempt topstitching by hand since I don't have a machine (yet!) What color dye did you use? I'm going to try to match the factory color so I don't have to mess with re-dyeing the boots, but we'll see how that goes (although I'm thinking hers are a bit darker anyway?)

Many thanks, again! Smile
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