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Standards Revision: Bespin Gown Leia

 
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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 12:59 pm    Post subject: Standards Revision: Bespin Gown Leia Reply with quote

Liz put together some suggested revisions for this set of standards, as we are getting a lot more people with this costume lately.

First of all, it was suggested that we change the name, as it's not a gown at all. "Cloud City Outfit" or just "Princess Leia -- Cloud City" were suggested. What do you all think about renaming it?

Lora Skywalker wrote:
Red - remove
Blue - add
Green - suggestion/discussion/what do you think?


Princess Leia - Cloud City

Required Items:

1. Tunic
a. Rust red, Burgundy, wine, maroon colored tunic made in a non-shiny fabric. (Crepe de chine silk or similar).
b. The neck of the tunic is a straight line neck, the top of which should reach the collar bone.
c. The sleeves of the tunic are fitted, but not skin tight, and reach down to the top of the hand. The ends of the sleeves that cover a portion of the hand should end in a rounded point over the lower part of the hand.
d. The tunic should reach down to the mid thigh.
e. All edges of the tunic have a copper metallic trim.

2. Belt
a. The belt is stiff and should be covered in the same fabric as the tunic and pants.
b. The shape of the belt should be is a large diamond with curved points.
c. The belt is fitted to have a snug fit on the wearer's waist.

3. Pants
a. Loose fitted harem pants that are made in the same fabric as the tunic.
b. The pants are gathered to a cuff at the ankles.
c. The trim of the cuff should be is the same metallic copper trim as the tunic.

4. Cloak
a. The yoke of the cloak is made of an off-white fabric and is padded.
b. The yoke is quilted; with straight quilted lines that are closer together
and become further apart towards the bottom of the yoke. The thread
of the quilting should match the color of the tunic and pants. (I suggest adding in number of stitching lines on the yoke).
c. The front of the yoke should be is open to reveal the tunic.
d. The yoke comes to a point in the center of the back; this point
should reach down to the edge of the shoulder blades upper back.
e. The sides of the yoke should reach to the very ends of the shoulder.
f. The collar of the yoke is a standing collar.
g. The yoke has the same copper metallic trim as the tunic.
h. The cloak should be a sheer off white fabric that is attached to the cloak.
i. The cloak should must be neatly and densely gathered, and attached to the yoke with neat knife pleats.
j. The cloak should be is decorated with five of the same paisley-fish scale patterns, complete with five rosette paisleys at the bottom of each of the five patterns. There should be is one pattern on the center back, two one on each side of the back, and two one on each side of the front.
k. The five patterns may be embroidered or printed onto the fabric and must have the following accurate colors all included: pink, burgundy, butter yellow, and dark brown. The patterns must be scaled to the wearer.
l. The lining of the cloak is a sheer rust red/wine/burgundy/maroon (a color that should be highly similar to match the color of the tunic and pants.) The lining and outer fabric of the cloak should be sewn together so that there is no top stitching. (Self-lined).
m. The cloak should reach down to the ankles.
n. The cloak has the same copper metallic trim as the tunic and pants.

5. Shoes
a. The shoes are flat slippers, dyed to match the same color as the tunic and pants. Dyed to match or the color of the tunic and pants? Choose one.

6. Hair
a. Hair is pulled back to the crown of the head and into a twisted bun.
b. Descending from the under bun are two looped braids. These braids should be full and thick and reach down to the base of the neck.
c. The side hairs over the ears should be loose and curled.
d. Naturally occurring hair colors only; no bangs. Brown hair recommended.


As you can see, it's still in the process of defining a few points, so we welcome everyone's input.

This discussion will remain open for two weeks or until we reach a consensus.
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Last edited by SongofAmazon (Jenna) on Fri Jun 09, 2017 8:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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bad_wolf (Maria)
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just working on it! Ok for the name! But i not understand if crepe is a suggestion or if is binding. (Can I choose a not shiny fabric that is not crepe?)
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As someone who just went through the judging process on this, I think tightening the language is good. Since I was judged on cloak positioning not mentioned in the CRL as it currently stands. (Which was totally my bad, I was paying more attention to pleating and lining up the fishscale paisley patterns than armhole positioning.)

Yoke Lines - I suggest a range of stitch lines that would be acceptable rather than a set in stone number. I think it's been somewhere between 15 - 22 depending on the sewer and skillset. I used hemming and sewing rulers to help me spread out and measure my lines.

For the belt, should we add in a more rhombus shape? That was the term Liz used to help me get my belt diamond corrected to the wider shape.

As to renaming it, I'm meh on the idea. People have referred to it as a gown for so long, calling it that is not going to go away by renaming the CRL.

As to the shoes, I say dyed to match. My reasoning: The ballerina flats that are as close to screen accuracy as possible are sold by many bridal companies ready to dye. (With the dye service, I think these were the cheapest shoes I've bought for a legion costume!) So the pricing isn't astronomical or unreasonable.
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are my changes from what Lora suggested.

Red - remove
Blue - add
Green - suggestion/discussion/what do you think?


Princess Leia - Cloud City

Required Items:

1. Tunic
a. Rust red, Burgundy, wine, maroon colored tunic made in a non-shiny fabric. (Crepe de chine silk or similar).
b. The neck of the tunic is a straight line neckline of the tunic is boat neck, slightly curved from shoulder to shoulder, the top of which should reach the collar bone.
c. The sleeves of the tunic are fitted, but not skin tight, and reach down to the top of the hand. The ends of the sleeves that cover a portion of the hand should end in a rounded point over the lower part of the hand.
d. The tunic should reach down to the mid thigh (just above the knee).
e. All edges of the tunic have a copper metallic trim.

2. Belt
a. The belt is stiff and should be covered in the same fabric as the tunic and pants.
b. The shape of the belt should be is a large diamond (4" - 5") with curved points.
c. The belt is fitted to have a snug fit on snugly to the wearer's waist.

3. Pants
a. Loose fitted harem pants that are made in the same fabric as the tunic.
b. The pants are gathered to a cuff at the ankles.
c. The trim of the cuff should be is the same metallic copper trim as the tunic. - There is no copper trim on them cuffs of the pants, just a elastic cuff

4. Cloak
a. The yoke of the cloak is made of an off-white non-shiny or crepe-like semi-sheer fabric and is lightly padded. The off-white fabric is interlined with the same color fabric used in the tunic and pants.
b. The yoke is quilted; with straight quilted lines that are closer together
and become further apart towards the bottom of the yoke. The thread
of the quilting should match the color of the tunic and pants. (I suggest adding in number of stitching lines on the yoke).
c. The front of the yoke does not close at the center front and should lie be is open to reveal the tunic.
d. The yoke comes to a rounded point in the center of the back; this point should reach down to the edge of the shoulder blades upper back.
e. The sides of the yoke should reach to the very ends of the shoulder.
f. The collar of the yoke is a standing collar.
g. The yoke has the same copper metallic trim as the tunic, trimming all edges including the neckline seam of the collar.
h. The cloak should be a sheer off white non-shiny or crepe-like semi-sheer fabric that is attached to the cloak.
i. The cloak should must be neatly and densely gathered, and attached to the yoke with neat knife pleats. I think that using densely here would be confusing.
j. The cloak should be is decorated with five of the same paisley-fish scale patterns, complete with five rosette paisleys at the bottom of each of the five patterns. There should be is one pattern on the center back, two one on each side of the back, and two one on each side of the front.
k. The five patterns may be embroidered or printed onto the fabric and must have the following accurate colors all included: pink, burgundy, butter yellow, and dark brown. The patterns must be scaled to the wearer.
l. The lining of the cloak is a sheer rust red/wine/burgundy/maroon (a color that should be highly similar to match the color of the tunic and pants.) The lining and outer fabric of the cloak should be sewn together so that there is no top stitching. (Self-lined).
m. The cloak should reach down to the ankles.
n. The cloak has the same copper metallic trim as the tunic and pants.

5. Shoes
a. The shoes are flat slippers, dyed to match the same color as the tunic and pants. Dyed to match or the color of the tunic and pants? Choose one.

6. Hair
a. Hair is pulled back to the crown of the head and into a twisted bun.
b. Descending from the under bun are two looped braids. These braids should be full and thick and reach down to the base of the neck.
c. The side hairs over the ears should be loose and curled.
d. Naturally occurring hair colors only; no bangs. Brown hair recommended.


Last edited by Blue (Beth) on Wed May 10, 2017 4:13 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Blue (Beth)
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

master_atris wrote:
I just working on it! Ok for the name! But i not understand if crepe is a suggestion or if is binding. (Can I choose a not shiny fabric that is not crepe?)


I would think that as long as the fabric has the same look/feel as the crepe you would be ok.
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Swfangirl ()
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the cloak have any side seams and/or are seams allowed? Either the outer layout or the lining? I've not seen this address officially and thought it would be good to ask.
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swfangirl wrote:
Does the cloak have any side seams and/or are seams allowed? Either the outer layout or the lining? I've not seen this address officially and thought it would be good to ask.


From what I can tell, the original does not have side seams, but I feel that side seams should be allowed as some people may need to have them depending on fabric widths and such.
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plushie (Shana Rich)
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blue wrote:
Swfangirl wrote:
Does the cloak have any side seams and/or are seams allowed? Either the outer layout or the lining? I've not seen this address officially and thought it would be good to ask.


From what I can tell, the original does not have side seams, but I feel that side seams should be allowed as some people may need to have them depending on fabric widths and such.


Agreed.... I nearly went this route as the original fabric I wanted to use for lining was a smidge too narrow. But I didn't want seams as I didn't think it would look right so I got wide enough chiffon to line the cloak with.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I wouldn't mind neat side seams, as they would most likely be very discreet, but you would have to sew them first, then add the embroidery. Lining side seams would work better than outer layer seams as it has no embroidery.

And I'm in favor of just calling it Cloud City. That's what I always called it before I joined the Legion and later realized it was called Bespin gown here. (Never made sense to me; it's a tunic and pants, not a dress). Razz And she got it while on Cloud City. Smile
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have tried to clean it up based on the different suggestions.


Princess Leia Organa - Cloud City outfit

Required Items:

1. Tunic
a. Rust red, Burgundy, wine, maroon colored tunic made in a non-shiny fabric. (Crepe de chine silk or similar).
b. The neckline of the tunic is a boat neck, slightly curved from shoulder to shoulder, which should reach the collar bone.
c. The sleeves of the tunic are fitted, but not skin tight, and reach down to the hand. The ends of the sleeves should end in a rounded point over the lower part of the hand.
d. The tunic should reach down to just above the knee.
e. All edges of the tunic have a copper metallic trim.

2. Belt
a. The belt is stiff and must be covered in the same fabric as the tunic and pants.
b. The shape of the belt is a large diamond/rhombus (4 - 5" / 10 - 13 cm) with curved points.
c. The belt is fitted snugly to the wearer's waist.

3. Pants
a. Loose fitted harem pants that are made in the same fabric as the tunic.
b. The pants are gathered to a cuff at the ankles.

4. Cloak
a. The yoke of the cloak is made of an off-white, non-shiny or and crepe-like, semi-sheer fabric and is lightly padded. The off-white fabric is interlined with the same color fabric used in the tunic and pants.
b. The yoke is quilted with straight quilted lines that are closer together
and become further apart towards the bottom of the yoke. There should be 21 lines on the yoke. The thread of the quilting should match the color of the tunic and pants.
c. The front of the yoke does not close at the center front and lie open to reveal the tunic.
d. The yoke comes to a rounded point in the center of the back; this point should reach down to the edge of the shoulder blades.
e. The sides of the yoke should reach to the very ends of the shoulder.
f. The collar of the yoke is a standing collar.
g. The yoke has the same copper metallic trim as the tunic, trimming all edges including the neckline seam of the collar.
h. The cloak should be a sheer off white, non-shiny or and crepe-like, semi-sheer fabric that is attached to the cloak.
i. The cloak must be attached to the yoke with neat knife pleats.
j. The cloak is decorated with five of the same paisley-fish scale patterns, complete with five rosette paisleys at the bottom of each of the five patterns. There is one pattern on the center back, one on each side, and one on each side of the front.
k. The five patterns may be embroidered or printed onto the fabric and must have the following accurate colors all included: pink, burgundy, butter yellow, and dark brown. The patterns must be scaled to the wearer.
l. The lining of the cloak is a sheer rust red/wine/burgundy/maroon (a color that should match the color of the tunic and pants.) The lining and outer fabric of the cloak should be sewn together so that there is no top stitching. (Self-lined). The lining can have side seams if necessary.
m. The cloak should reach down to the ankles.
n. The cloak has the same copper metallic trim as the tunic and pants.

5. Shoes
a. The shoes are flat slippers, dyed to match the tunic and pants.

6. Hair
a. Hair is pulled back to the crown of the head and into a twisted bun.
b. Descending from the under bun are two looped braids. These braids should be full and thick and reach down to the base of the neck.
c. The side hairs over the ears should be loose and curly.
d. Naturally occurring hair colors only; no bangs. Brown hair recommended.


Optional:
1. Matte red-brown lipstick.

2. Black non-liquid (solid) eyeliner and mascara.

3. Brown eyeshadow.

4. Rose blush.

5. Brown lenses.

Note: Makeup used must enhance a natural look.



I've added the makeup under optionals. But at least it's then described somewhere.

I hope the clean up makes it a little more readable. I was wondering if we want to say crepe only for the cloak. I know the tunic and pants are crepe, but I haven't ever seen a confirmation of the fabric used for the cloak, only that the whole costume should be silk. To me it looks like it could be a thick chiffon, so I'm a bit iffy about writing crepe about the cloak material.
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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are my edits based on the most recent suggestion (I put all my changes in violet to hopefully make them more visible.


Princess Leia Organa - Cloud City outfit

Required Items:

1. Tunic
a. Rust red, Burgundy, wine, or maroon colored tunic made in a non-shiny fabric. (Crepe de chine silk or similar).
b. The neckline of the tunic is a boat neck, slightly curved from shoulder to shoulder, which should reach the collar bone.
c. The sleeves of the tunic are fitted, but not skin tight, and reach down to the hand. The ends of the sleeves should end in a rounded point over the lower part of the hand.
d. The tunic should reach down to just above the knee.
e. All edges of the tunic have a copper metallic trim.

2. Belt
a. The belt is stiff and must be covered in the same fabric as the tunic and pants.
b. The shape of the belt is a large diamond/rhombus (4 - 5" / 10 - 13 cm) with curved points.
c. The belt is fitted snugly to the wearer's waist.

3. Pants
a. Loose fitted harem pants that are made in the same fabric as the tunic.
b. The pants are gathered to a (1-2"/2.5-5 cm) cuff at the ankles.

4. Cloak
a. The yoke of the cloak is made of an off-white, non-shiny (deleted or/and) crepe-like, semi-sheer fabric and is lightly padded. The off-white fabric is interlined with a semi-sheer fabric that is the same color fabric used in the tunic and pants.
b. The yoke is quilted with straight quilted lines that are closer together
and become further apart towards the bottom of the yoke. There should be 21 lines on the yoke. The thread of the quilting should match the color of the tunic and pants.
c. The front of the yoke does not close at the center front and lie open to reveal the tunic.
d. The yoke comes to a rounded point in the center of the back; this point should reach down to the edge of the shoulder blades.
e. The sides of the yoke should reach just over the ends of the shoulder.
f. The collar of the yoke is a standing collar (approximately 2 inches/5cm).
g. The yoke has the same copper metallic trim as the tunic, trimming all edges including the neckline seam of the collar.
h. The cloak should be a sheer off white, non-shiny or and crepe-like, semi-sheer fabric that is attached to the cloak.
i. The cloak must be attached to the yoke with neat knife pleats.
j. The cloak is decorated with five of the same paisley-(deleted fish-scale) thickened X shaped patterns, complete with five mini-rosette paisleys in the middle and five rosette paisleys at the bottom of each of the five patterns. The intricate X patterns are surrounded by yellow lines to enhance the overall shape. Optional: portions of the pattern have shading or back stitching to provide depth when viewed from the top side There is one pattern on the center back, one on each side, and one on each side of the front.
k. The five patterns may be embroidered or printed onto the fabric and must have the following accurate colors all included: (get rid of pink, I think it is more of a copper color) pink, burgundy, white, butter yellow, and dark brown. The patterns must be scaled to the wearer.
l. The lining of the cloak is a sheer rust red/wine/burgundy/maroon (a color that should match the color of the tunic and pants.) The lining and outer fabric of the cloak should be sewn together so that there is no top stitching. (Self-lined). The lining can have side seams if necessary.
m. The cloak should reach down to the ankles.
n. The cloak has the same copper metallic trim as the tunic and pants.

5. Shoes
a. The shoes are flat slippers, dyed to match the tunic and pants.

6. Hair
a. Hair is pulled back to the crown of the head and into a twisted bun.
b. Descending from the under bun are two looped braids. These braids should be full and thick and reach down to the base of the neck.
c. The side hairs over the ears should be loose and curly.
d. Naturally occurring hair colors only; no bangs. Brown hair recommended.


Optional:
1. Matte red-brown lipstick.

2. Black non-liquid (solid) eyeliner and mascara.

3. Brown eyeshadow.

4. Rose blush.

5. Brown lenses.

Note: Makeup used must enhance a natural look.
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Blue (Beth)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test
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LeiaYT1300 (Beret Balestrieri Kohn)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 3:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't post much these days, but I still check the boards now and again, and I was glad to learn the Leia standards were coming under another revision. I hadn't read the current standards in some years, but re-reading them now, along with the wonderful suggestions made by others in this thread, I felt it was time to take a crack at it myself, especially as I've always felt they were never as detailed as they could be.

The Bespin cloak ensemble has been a costume I've had and loved for years, but one thing is certain: I have never stopped reviewing my costume with a critical eye, and as an old saying goes, "the artist isn't done until she says it's done". So for me, Bespin was never entirely complete, and perhaps never will be.

As a result, over the years I've kept my research and my notes current, especially as newer imagery appeared on the scene in recent years, along with the publication of the Rinzler and Alinger books.

So, taking the latest collective revision from above by Joy, below are my suggested revisions for consideration. Additions/changes are in blue, suggested deletions in red, and notes/reference images in purple. I'm happy to answer any questions regarding the suggestions made below, and I look forward to everyone's thoughts. Smile

Princess Leia Organa - Bespin Cloak Ensemble

Required Items:

1. Tunic
a. Rust red or brick red, Burgundy, wine, or maroon colored tunic made in a non-shiny fabric or a fabric with a light pearl sheen, either silk crepe de chine or similar. (Crepe de chine silk or similar). The tunic should be lined in a fabric of a similar or lighter weight and texture.

Notes:

There are really too many shades listed here for the garments, and I suggest they be simplified to rust red or brick red. Both names signify the warm red/brown quality of the shade. Burgundy, wine and maroon can often have purple tones and is misleading.

Listing the fabric as non-shiny is acceptable and should be kept. However, the original garments are made of silk crepe de chine, which has a slight pearl sheen to it that should also be mentioned as acceptable. Anything shinier than a pearl sheen should be discouraged. This sheen is shown in photos taken of the costume on exhibition:


Reference 1

Reference 2

Silk crepe de chine is generally semi-sheer or close to it, depending on the momme (or weight of the weave). For example, the ANH gown is of silk crepe de chine and even with the lining, in some photos, you can still glimpse a bit of skin showing through it. The Bespin tunic and pants are no different, and a lining should be a requirement, unless the fabric chosen by the costumer can be shown to be opaque enough. Although I personally feel a lining should be used regardless for the sake of clean edge finishing throughout.

b. The neckline of the tunic is a boat neck style, slightly curved from shoulder to shoulder, which should reach the collar bone.
c. The tunic has a slit in each side seam that starts no higher than the waist and extends down to the hem.
d. The sleeves of the tunic are fitted, but not skin tight, and reach down to the hand. The ends of the sleeves should end in a rounded point over the lower part of the hand.
e. The tunic should reach down to just above the knee.
f. All edges of the tunic have a copper braid metallic trim.

2. Belt
a. The belt is stiff and must be covered in the same fabric as the tunic and pants.
b. The shape of the belt is a large diamond/rhombus 4-5"/10-13 cm with curved points.
c. The belt is fitted snugly to the wearer's waist.

3. Pants
a. Loose fitted harem pants that are made in the same fabric as the tunic.
b. The pants are gathered to a 1-2"/2.5-5 cm cuff at the ankles.

4. Cloak
a. The yoke of the cloak is made of an off-white, non-shiny or a fabric with a light pearl sheen, either silk crepe de chine or similar crepe-like, semi-sheer fabric and is lightly padded. The off-white fabric is interlined with the same rust red or brick red fabric a semi-sheer fabric that is the same color fabric used in the tunic and pants.

Note:

While the Alinger book does not specify that the cloak is silk crepe de chine, photos of the original on exhibition provide proof that it is a silk crepe de chine. Silk crepe has a watered weave to it, which is clearly shown in the photos. In addition, the tunic and pants also show the same weave but with one difference: the watered weave lines are vertical in the tunic and pants, but are horizontal in the cloak.

This is because the cloak does not have any side seams and is cut from one long length of cloth with the finished selvedges of the crepe at the top and bottom, above and below the embroidery motifs. Or, formally, the crosswise grain of the cloak runs vertical and the lengthwise grain runs horizontal.

The tunic and pants pieces were cut with the crosswise grain running horizontal and the lengthwise grain running vertically parallel to the selvedges, which is traditionally how the garment pieces would have been cut. You can see the vertical watered grain in the photos as well.


Reference 1

Reference 2

Chiffon is certainly also acceptable, as heavier momme silk chiffon is available on the market, although it is more pebbly and matte than silk crepe de chine. But no question the original is silk crepe de chine and the evidence proves that.

b. The yoke is quilted with straight quilted lines that are closer together
and become further apart towards the bottom of the yoke in a spoke-like fashion. There should be 21 lines on the yoke. There should be an average of 15 to 22 quilting lines. The thread of the quilting should match the color of the tunic and pants.

Note:

I agree with the suggestion of requiring that the costumer meet an average of 15-22 quilting lines, rather than require a hard number. Shoulders and bosoms vary differently in size and maintaining a proportional spacing between the quilting lines is more important than an actual number.


c. The front of the yoke does not close at the center front and lies open to reveal the tunic.
d. The yoke comes to a rounded point in the center of the back; this point should reach down roughly to the lower edge of the shoulder blades.
e. The sides of the yoke should reach just over the ends of the shoulder.
f. The collar of the yoke is a standing collar, approximately 2 inches/5cm.
g. The yoke has the same copper braid metallic trim as the tunic, trimming all edges, including the neckline seam of the collar.
h. The cloak should be a semi-sheer off white, or a fabric with a light pearl sheen, either silk crepe de chine or similar that is attached to the cloak.
i. The cloak must be attached to the yoke with neat knife pleats.

Note:

Side seams should continue to be accepted to help accommodate various heights, as long as those side seams are narrow (straight with a narrow zigzag or hand overcast finish, French seams or serging), and the embroidery motifs are worked over the seams - the embroidery should not be broken up by the seams.

Years back, wide width silks of the appropriate texture and weights were difficult to find, and while that has changed somewhat, with silk crepe de chine and other acceptable fabrics now available at an average 54"-55" wide, for ladies over 5'9" or taller, even that wide width will not be wide enough. You can only fudge the length so much when the shape and length of the yoke is considered and using narrow hemming at the bottom.


j. The cloak is decorated with five of the same paisley motifs, filled with a thick, contoured thickened X shaped pattern, complete with five mini-rosettes paisleys in the middle and five larger rosettes paisleys at the bottom of each of the five patterns. Optional: Portions of the pattern have a method of shading or shadow stitching (also known as a reverse herringbone stitch) on the wrong side of the fabric back stitching to provide depth when viewed from the top right side of the fabric.
k. There is one pattern on the center back, one on each side, and one on each side of the front. The two front patterns are cut off at the upper right and upper left large rosettes that flank the center front, with the finished center front edges of the cloak cutting off each of these outer rosettes just at the outer dark brown stitch ring.

Note:

I have noticed a number of costumers making this cloak have encountered an issue with how the center front closes too close together toward the bottom and even overlaps in certain cases. That is because the whole embroidery pattern was applied to either side, creating a diagonal center front edge versus a straight edge.

This particular problem was solved on the original gown by cutting off each of the upper large rosettes that meet those center front edges of the cloak and it is clearly visible on several images of the cloak on exhibition where the edge of the cloak was turned out to show the wrong side. This clearly shows the rosettes being cut off, as well as the shadow stitch used beneath.


Reference 1

Reference 2

Reference 3

Cutting off the pattern to keep the center front edges straight should be a requirement and will also help future costumers achieve that straight, plumb edge that the original has.

l. The five patterns may be embroidered or printed onto the fabric and must have the following accurate colors all included: (get rid of pink, I think it is more of a copper color) butter yellow, dusty rose pink, rust red or brick red (same color as tunic and pants), dark burgundy, white, and dark brown. The intricate X patterns are surrounded outlined with yellow lines of stitching (stem stitch or similar stitching) to enhance the overall shape.
m. The patterns must be scaled proportionally to the wearer.

Note:

I disagree with the removal of the pink color in the embroidery. The original cloak does have a dusty rose, almost mauve pink in the center paisley immediately below the small rosettes, and the formal studio shots and the exhibition shots both support it. This is also confirmed by a number of ladies in years' past who have seen the costume in person, myself included. It is not a copper color, which would be too orange compared to the pink color seen in the photos, including the shots in the Alinger book.


Reference 1

Reference 2

In addition, there is no white in the embroidery at all. What is perceived as white is actually the butter yellow used in the shadow stitching in the paisley motifs. The off-white shading of the fabric made by the shadow stitching causes the tiny yellow stitching to appear almost white.

I also did a bit of re-arranging of the cloak wording standard for better clarity and readability (it was reading rather muddy to me).


l. The lining of the cloak is a sheer rust red or brick red, either silk chiffon or similar /wine/burgundy/maroon, a color that should match the color of the tunic and pants. The lining and outer fabric of the cloak should be pleated and sewn together with no so that there is no top stitching. (Self-lined). The lining can have side seams if necessary.
m. The cloak should reach down to the ankles.
n. The cloak has the same copper braid metallic trim as the tunic and pants on all edges.

5. Shoes
a. The shoes are flat ballet slippers, dyed to match the tunic and pants.

6. Hair
a. Hair is pulled back to the crown of the head and into a twisted bun.
b. Descending from the under bun are two looped braids. These braids should be full and thick and reach down to the base of the neck.
c. The side hairs over the ears should be loose and curly.
d. Naturally occurring hair colors only; no bangs. Brown hair recommended.

Optional:
1. Matte red-brown lipstick.

2. Black non-liquid (solid) eyeliner and mascara.

3. Brown eye shadow.

4. Rose blush.

5. Brown lenses.

Note: Makeup used must enhance a natural look.
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Beret
LeiaYT1300

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SongofAmazon (Jenna)
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much for all of these revisions everyone. Your analysis here is super helpful, Beret.

I'm going to go ahead and close this public discussion as it has been over two weeks. This discussion can continue in the private RLGS forums.

Thanks everyone!
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Riyo Chuchi, Queen Apailana, Nomi Sunrider, Havoc Trooper, Amilyn Holdo

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