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Jyn Erso WIP
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Vicky114 ()
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Posts: 207
Location: Hampshire UK
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The patch is sorted now. How do i move the tab on the waistband over when I didn't make the pants and so have no material? unfortunately it lines up fine off me. Same with the casing. Vest I can probably do


https://imgur.com/a/20sTP

https://i.imgur.com/cegQDC1.jpg

Would this shirt work better?
Shirt https://imgur.com/a/nYflK
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Vicky114 ()
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Joined: 23 Jul 2017
Posts: 207
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what i recieved

Your pants need a few adjustments. First, your waistband does
not wrap around long enough. The Rebel Legion Jyn Erso
standard specifies the waistband line up with the center seam of
the right leg. Yours is ends closer to the center of your body.
The waistband will need to be adjusted or remade.

Your pants casings also do not wrap around long enough,
exposing too much strap on the backs of your legs. The casings
should start on the side of the leg so you do not see straps
behind your legs. If you see in this photo of the Jyn costume on
display:

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-
NoqBM5w7bkY/WOP51ySyVZI/AAAAAAAChOs/4v0BQvV6c0ogf7
6TyNF8rsamg6gfxOjPwCLcB/s800/rogue%2Bone%2Bfilm%2Bco
stumes.jpg

you can get a sense of where the casings should end. I would
also suggest when you are adjusting the casings, to also raise
them higher on your leg. Although the casings should be below
the knee, it appears like yours are closer to your calves and
raising them about 1-2 inches to *just* below your knee I think
would give your pants a more accurate look.

Your shirt color is great, and the sleeve length looks good. The
only issue I see is the neckline is wrong. The collar should only
have an outer flap and yours appears to have two layered flaps.
If you refer to this photo:

https://pmcvariety.files.wordpress.com/2016/12/star-wars-
rogue-one-11.jpg?w=1000&h=563&crop=1

you can get a good look of how the bib flap lays, and how the
right side of the garment has no flap at all, its just half a “V”
opening, while the left side has the folded over bib. You may be
able to alter your existing shirt to correct this simply by pressing
the inner flap inward and topstitching the pressed edge.

Your vest looks good from the front, we especially like how you
weathered it. We will need you to fix your back quilting, which
is presently uneven and incorrectly spaced. I would refer to this
photo of Jyn:

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fPxbeF4brcM/WOP-
9VkrZCI/AAAAAAAChPY/mIlO4ycWVRI_ODEm9K6ZOVb3a5uhVE
GfACLcB/s1600/rogue%2Bone%2Bjyn%2Berso%2Bjacket%2Bb
ack.jpg

to see where to place your stitch lines so the squares are larger
near the bottom and narrower rectangles towards the top.

Your props and blaster look great except we will need you to
repaint your comm pad (aside from the red parts) so it is all
gray or all silver as per the costume standard. Refer to this
photo here:

http://cdn3-
www.comingsoon.net/assets/uploads/2016/12/JynErsoBar640.jp
g

Your belt and holster look great! The one think we need you to
fix is your tonfa clip is in the middle of the strap when it should
be down by the holster. Refer to this image to get an idea of
where it should be:.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KR_2hTbkECk/WOP-
7JwaepI/AAAAAAAChPQ/TPguv8AF1tsOxA1xG4sUfi--
m0NrejMJQCLcB/s800/rogue%2Bone%2Bjyn%2Bfilm%2Bcostu
me.jpg

Since the tonfa clip is optional, you could either move it to a
more accurate position, or just remove it totally. It just can’t be
in the middle of the strap.


If anyone has any idea on the trousers...
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Vicky114 ()
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Joined: 23 Jul 2017
Posts: 207
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Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the shirt if I simply fold inner flap in side back on itself and sow would that work?

To get from this
https://i.imgur.com/iDhEUu6.jpg

To this

https://imgur.com/SnPxY0b
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Vicky114 ()
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Joined: 23 Jul 2017
Posts: 207
Location: Hampshire UK
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would this work?

https://imgur.com/a/gkVnn
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Amelia (Emily Haas)
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Joined: 29 Aug 2017
Posts: 666
Location: Cary, NC
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know that, when you first get a list like this, it can seem huge and overwhelming. I read through everything, and the good news is that, while this is long, most of it is the judge giving you suggestions and additional resources for changes. There are only six things they want you to do.

Change 1 - Tab (this is going to be long, but it's because I'm probably being over inclusive with details, not because it's hard).

I would write to the seamstress and find out what type of fabric she used. If she has extra, you might be able to convince her to send some to you. If not, you'll have to buy some.

After you get your fabric, you'll need to figure out the dimensions for your new waistband. I would recommend putting on the pants and taking a string. Start at the non-tab side/opening, and then wrap the string around your body ending so that it stops where you'd want your tab to stop (there will be an area where the string overlaps itself. Measure the string section you just used to determine that distance (I'm going to call it Ds for Distance String).

On your fabric, measure lengthwise Ds + 1". This will be the length of the waistband.

Next, measure the width of your current waistband. We'll call that Ww for Waistband Width.

On your fabric, you're going to measure down from each end of your lengthwise Ds + 1" measurement 2 Ww+1" (or twice the width of the waistband plus one inch). This should get you a rectangle.

Cut out the rectangle.

Along each side of your rectangle, measure in 0.5". Draw a line. You'll have a rectangle inside a rectangle.

Fold the rectangle in half along the short side, making sure that your drawn lines are facing you. You should end up with a rectangle that is Ds+1" long and Ww + 0.5" wide. Pin it so it stays in place.

Start at the folded end along the line and sew down along the line. When you reach where the line turns along the edge parallel to the folded edge, sew that line as well. Leave the third side open.

Turn the rectangle inside out. This will hide the sewn edges and you should have a nice, neat square tab at one end. You might need to push into the corners a bit with your fingers. Now, in the open side, tuck the fabric in about 0.5" Sew along the outer edge to hold it in place.

If you have an iron, I'd recommend pressing your new waistband. If you don't have an iron, you could always put a book on top of it overnight. When you're ready to continue, you can sew the new waistband over the old one. The edge with the outside sewing goes on the non-tab side, and the waistband will then wrap around. It should end up sticking out over the old tab. Depending on how far you have to go, you might be able to get away with it sticking out. If you need to, you can get some pull and peel velcro and stick it on the end of your tab facing in and then on the waistband where the tab sits facing out. You might need to trip it a little bit but - https://www.amazon.co.uk/VELCRO-Brand-Heavy-Stick-Coins/dp/B00186Q5WW/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RA7DH9F1VZXZBB0FMQR7 If you're super comfortable with those little loops and hooks that are used in place of buttons, you could also sew one of those on instead.

Change 2 - casings

Before I tell you to do something that ends up accidentally being disastrous, can you flip the pants inside out and show me a picture of the area where the casing is currently attached? I want to make sure I give you suggestions that will work for your pants and not accidentally take apart your pants!

Change 3 - Bib - I would follow the judge's recommendation. If you don't have an iron, you can fold the fabric over and press it with a heavy book (let the book sit on it overnight) and that should at least get it to lay flat for you to stitch it. If you want/need further details, let me know and I can explain!

Change 4 - Vest Back - if you go to our Facebook group and go into the Restill Vest Tutorial, there is an awesome image showing how the squares are supposed to be laid out. The good news is that properly doing this is all by hand. I just redid mine this past week and, while it completely sucked every time I stabbed myself and it's monotonous, it's doable and it's an especially good project for someone who hand sews.

I used a grease pencil and marked out the corners of all my rectangles, based on the Restill image. After I did that, I followed her instructions for making tie quilt ties. You might need to go over each tie twice (with my fabric, that was what I finally ended up doing). Let me know if you want me to write out more about this and I'd be happy to.

Change 5 - Com Pad - I painted mine with some cheap acrylic paint. You can get this at a craft store, at a hardware store, or on Amazon. CHeck out here - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Royal-Langnickel-1430212511-Acrylic-Paint/dp/B004DTN64G (on my browser it says there are options starting at 1 pound).

Change 6 - Tonfa Clip - I would just remove this. That seems like the easiest to do right now. You can always add it back in when you're done with the Jedha part of the costume. The goal is to get something approved so you can start trooping.
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Amelia (Emily Haas)
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Joined: 29 Aug 2017
Posts: 666
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Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
For the shirt if I simply fold inner flap in side back on itself and sow would that work?

I am not a judge, but that's my understanding of what the judge is suggesting.
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Vicky114 ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 23 Jul 2017
Posts: 207
Location: Hampshire UK
Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amelia wrote:
I know that, when you first get a list like this, it can seem huge and overwhelming. I read through everything, and the good news is that, while this is long, most of it is the judge giving you suggestions and additional resources for changes. There are only six things they want you to do.

Change 1 - Tab (this is going to be long, but it's because I'm probably being over inclusive with details, not because it's hard).

I would write to the seamstress and find out what type of fabric she used. If she has extra, you might be able to convince her to send some to you. If not, you'll have to buy some.

After you get your fabric, you'll need to figure out the dimensions for your new waistband. I would recommend putting on the pants and taking a string. Start at the non-tab side/opening, and then wrap the string around your body ending so that it stops where you'd want your tab to stop (there will be an area where the string overlaps itself. Measure the string section you just used to determine that distance (I'm going to call it Ds for Distance String).

On your fabric, measure lengthwise Ds + 1". This will be the length of the waistband.

Next, measure the width of your current waistband. We'll call that Ww for Waistband Width.

On your fabric, you're going to measure down from each end of your lengthwise Ds + 1" measurement 2 Ww+1" (or twice the width of the waistband plus one inch). This should get you a rectangle.

Cut out the rectangle.

Along each side of your rectangle, measure in 0.5". Draw a line. You'll have a rectangle inside a rectangle.

Fold the rectangle in half along the short side, making sure that your drawn lines are facing you. You should end up with a rectangle that is Ds+1" long and Ww + 0.5" wide. Pin it so it stays in place.

Start at the folded end along the line and sew down along the line. When you reach where the line turns along the edge parallel to the folded edge, sew that line as well. Leave the third side open.

Turn the rectangle inside out. This will hide the sewn edges and you should have a nice, neat square tab at one end. You might need to push into the corners a bit with your fingers. Now, in the open side, tuck the fabric in about 0.5" Sew along the outer edge to hold it in place.

If you have an iron, I'd recommend pressing your new waistband. If you don't have an iron, you could always put a book on top of it overnight. When you're ready to continue, you can sew the new waistband over the old one. The edge with the outside sewing goes on the non-tab side, and the waistband will then wrap around. It should end up sticking out over the old tab. Depending on how far you have to go, you might be able to get away with it sticking out. If you need to, you can get some pull and peel velcro and stick it on the end of your tab facing in and then on the waistband where the tab sits facing out. You might need to trip it a little bit but - https://www.amazon.co.uk/VELCRO-Brand-Heavy-Stick-Coins/dp/B00186Q5WW/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RA7DH9F1VZXZBB0FMQR7 If you're super comfortable with those little loops and hooks that are used in place of buttons, you could also sew one of those on instead.

Change 2 - casings

Before I tell you to do something that ends up accidentally being disastrous, can you flip the pants inside out and show me a picture of the area where the casing is currently attached? I want to make sure I give you suggestions that will work for your pants and not accidentally take apart your pants!

Change 3 - Bib - I would follow the judge's recommendation. If you don't have an iron, you can fold the fabric over and press it with a heavy book (let the book sit on it overnight) and that should at least get it to lay flat for you to stitch it. If you want/need further details, let me know and I can explain!

Change 4 - Vest Back - if you go to our Facebook group and go into the Restill Vest Tutorial, there is an awesome image showing how the squares are supposed to be laid out. The good news is that properly doing this is all by hand. I just redid mine this past week and, while it completely sucked every time I stabbed myself and it's monotonous, it's doable and it's an especially good project for someone who hand sews.

I used a grease pencil and marked out the corners of all my rectangles, based on the Restill image. After I did that, I followed her instructions for making tie quilt ties. You might need to go over each tie twice (with my fabric, that was what I finally ended up doing). Let me know if you want me to write out more about this and I'd be happy to.

Change 5 - Com Pad - I painted mine with some cheap acrylic paint. You can get this at a craft store, at a hardware store, or on Amazon. CHeck out here - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Royal-Langnickel-1430212511-Acrylic-Paint/dp/B004DTN64G (on my browser it says there are options starting at 1 pound).

Change 6 - Tonfa Clip - I would just remove this. That seems like the easiest to do right now. You can always add it back in when you're done with the Jedha part of the costume. The goal is to get something approved so you can start trooping.



Ok shirt is easy fix, same with removing tonfa hook. Trousers are made from Kaufman Ibiza stretch twill in charcoal which is discontinued unfortunately. But I've found the jetsetter stretch twill in charcoal which seems close enough. This is on order from us.
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Amelia (Emily Haas)
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good! And if your order comes a little later than expected, you can always reach out to your judge, explain the situation, and ask for an extension of time.
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Vicky114 ()
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Joined: 23 Jul 2017
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Location: Hampshire UK
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amelia wrote:
Sounds good! And if your order comes a little later than expected, you can always reach out to your judge, explain the situation, and ask for an extension of time.


Knowing shipping times I already messaged Jen to explain and got an extension.

I'll upload a pic in the morning but looking at inside of my trousers are casings are just stitched to the outside and don't interfere with anything crucial so swapping shouldn't be too bad.
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Vicky114 ()
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Joined: 23 Jul 2017
Posts: 207
Location: Hampshire UK
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 9:19 pm    Post subject: Changes Reply with quote

In regards to changes.

Comm pad is repainted silver and currently drying.
Tonfa hook is removed for the moment.
Shirt collar is folded down which should work without sowing it down.

So nearly 50% done.

Also I have some black satin material I can use to make a mock up for pants tomorrow.
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Amelia (Emily Haas)
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Location: Cary, NC
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 1:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Halfway home! And the remaining things look much worse than they are.

The squares on the back of the vest are annoying to do, but you can get those done in a few hours. The first time I did them, it took me the length of the 1990s Three Musketeers movie. I redid them this week and it took me about 2.5 hours, and that included playing around trying a bunch of different modifications to my technique to find the one I liked the best and talking with my sister on the phone. So - it's monotonous, but it's doable in an evening.

I think doing the waistband and the casings are also 1 evening each projects - so there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

If the casings are just sewn over the top of the pants, then you can remove them. One more thing to check on before you do - how far up do the pintucks go? We need to make sure that moving the casing won't cause a problem with the pintucks. I have a couple ideas we can look at if we need to.
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Vicky114 ()
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Joined: 23 Jul 2017
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Location: Hampshire UK
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amelia wrote:
Awesome! Halfway home! And the remaining things look much worse than they are.

The squares on the back of the vest are annoying to do, but you can get those done in a few hours. The first time I did them, it took me the length of the 1990s Three Musketeers movie. I redid them this week and it took me about 2.5 hours, and that included playing around trying a bunch of different modifications to my technique to find the one I liked the best and talking with my sister on the phone. So - it's monotonous, but it's doable in an evening.

I think doing the waistband and the casings are also 1 evening each projects - so there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

If the casings are just sewn over the top of the pants, then you can remove them. One more thing to check on before you do - how far up do the pintucks go? We need to make sure that moving the casing won't cause a problem with the pintucks. I have a couple ideas we can look at if we need to.


Shirt collar I might safety pin down later. Pin tucks won't go high enough if I remove casings but there is normal material underneath, so will I be able to almost carry on the fold of the pin tuck and sow it down to add to the length?

Vest is a job for tonight I think. I was going to remove all the squares in the back, sow in the points with a bright colour thread to get positions right then sow using brown embroidery thread. This sound ok?
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Vicky114 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the changes so far

https://imgur.com/a/GCVvQ
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Vicky114 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had a thought. If material I've ordered isn't close enough would removing the current waistband and adding new material to it under where the original tab will cover it work? Bit Frankenstein but might work. Either that or lots of weathering?
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Vicky114 ()
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what inside of trousers looks like

https://i.imgur.com/rpvZ7hb.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JPLGO1t.jpg

Only problem I can see us the pintucks not extending far enough.
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