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The Last Jedi - Leia
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Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 3:21 pm    Post subject: The Last Jedi - Leia Reply with quote

TFA Leia was split between this forum and the Rebel commanders, but since this post is about her cloak I think it fits better here. Feel free to move if I'm wrong though.

I'm no way near starting work on this costume, but I have started to gather my thoughts and I would like to get some input on them.

When the Vanity Fair cover with Carrie Fisher as Leia was released in the spring, and I fell totally in love with the costume.



Just a day or so ago a friend sent me this photo of Leia from TLJ.



There are some serious differences of the cloaks. One, the Vanity Fair one, has a much larger collar and is made out of a plain fabric. The other one hs a smaller collar and the fabric has a distinct pattern to it. The Vanity Fair cloak is also brown, but that could have been changed when it was edited.

The other version has been seen in shots from the set, once again showing the smaller collar and distinct pattern compared to the Vanity Fair cloak.



When it comes to what fabric it's made of. My first instinct was actally to make the VF version in neoprene, it would be incorrect but could give that smooth, but still structured, shape. The other version has something similar to a basketweave pattern and could not be made from that material though. Just on a whim I searched for black basketweave wool and stumbled upon this fabric.



It's a silk/viscose gazar. I had never heard of gazar so I did a bit of googling on the term. It's a very stiff silk that was inventend by Balenciaga in the 1960's to get a fabric that was suite for very structured garments. One of his most famous pieces is this one seam wedding gown in silk gazar.



Doesn't the drape and sheen of the fabric look similar to the VF cloak? And wouldn't it be likely that both coats are made of similar fabric, gazar, even if one has a pattern to it? I'm pretty convinded that both cloaks are made of silk gazar, unfortunately the pricetag for the only silk gazar that I've found online is $130/yard.

What do you think about my theories on the cloak?
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plushie (Shana Rich)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great start to research! The fabric find could be a match, but holy smokes that price tag per yard!
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Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it's not a fabric that I'm going to order unless I'm 100% sure it's correct and exactly how much I would need.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems to me that you assume both are the same costume ???
Why ?

I would more guess they are two different costumes. You can also see the bracelet of her right arm (so left on the pics) is different between the two costume. But talking about jewelry I notice the ring she has on her right hand (left on the pics then) is the same than the TFA one she has at the end Wink
I thus wondered if ear rings are the same too as the last pic you put could make us think. But with other pics (see after) they are similar shape but different.


Regarding the fabric. I can't help you if you want something very sturdy, specially as I don't know the names in english :p
But I can tell you that Neoprene will not do it. It would probably be falling on its own weight. Plus if you don't have specific sewing machine for neoprene that will be super complicated to do ! I had to sew kind of a tablecloth for science outreach once... took me a full afternoon by hand and couldn't feel my fingers at this end :s (7mm thickness) so I don't recommend !

However, I searched a bit more to get better quality pic. And got this :

On which we can see very well that there is a lining on that cape. I first thought it was something shiny like maybe silk or something like that you know.
But In facts I think it could be more a thin leather or faux leather. And it would stand with my following theory, that according to those 2 others pics


I think it could be a faux suede or something a bit similar used for the coat (and btw, seeing the dress under it... good luck to find also that fabric ^^)

In any case, I wonder if you should not line it with also something like a cardboard. Or maybe pu a metallic wire along the lining seam so you can keep both side of neck the shape they need ?

Edit : the sleeve are linen with the leather or silk shinny fabric. The main part is actually lined with the same fabric I would say !
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I may be wrong, but the texture of the brown cloak reminds me of a cloak of mine that's a mix of wool and mohair.

From the pics one can see that the cloak is lined and that may account for the 'body' it has, the collar could also have been stiffened with a stiff interfacing...
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Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason I think it's gazar is that then you don't have to interface it to get the same effect. Now if, you like me, aren't willing to spend $130/yard for the fabric then I would go for a wool, possibly a wool-silk blend if the budget allows it and use interfacing to get the same result.

Personally I'm going to not go for the VF version but the other one and I'm going to look for a basketweave wool or cotton. The problem with basketweave fabrics is that they are usually quite coarse, but I have seen some that could possibly work.

This is a fabric that I think could work, but is more in my pricerange - http://organiccotton.biz/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=260_194&product_id=944


Last edited by Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius) on Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It definitely looks like two different costumes. Smile Currently, I'd say the best photos we have are of the grey one. With this little information I would hesitate to lock on to a particular fabric unless the designer will say what it is.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just like with TFA Leia my plan is to make a first version for the premiere, and then after the film is out I can go on and make a new one. Still I feel that there are better photos of this than there was of TFA Leia before the film was released. Hopefully I can make the grey undergown good enough to keep even after we've seen what it's like in the film.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best of luck with that. Smile
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Daughter of Alderaan (Joy Lochelt)
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

loooovvveee
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New pics of TLJ today, including one of Leia with that outfit Wink
She seems to be in a ship in this one ?



Do you notice how the fabric here looks far less shiny and metallic and more grey ? Smile
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Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius)
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I Think that with colours we won't really know anything until the film comes out. There are so many variables with lightning and editing in the available photos.
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Lora Skywalker ()
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2017 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a bad photo. Smile
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Little update. Saw that pictures which gave a nice closer look at the bracelet Wink



Complementary to the one where she is hugging her daughter Smile
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Obi Anne (Johanna Nybelius)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've started working on this, with about a month left it's definitely time for that.

I'm also an historical costumer and for inspiration for the Construction of the coat I have used images and sources for mid-16th Century loose gowns.



I've used the instructions from the book "Creating historical clothes" to create my first mock-up of the coat. I'm going to make the grey version, with the smaller collar, it started out with a large, dramatic collar though.



From there I cut the collar down into a lower, more rounded shape, and I added a dart to tweak the fit of the collar.



There are reference photos that show a continous seam from the sleeve, up the shoulder and all the way to the collar, which makes the dart fine. I need to decide if I want to keep the dart or cut the collar more into the correct shape though.

At the moment I'm not making any seams in the back, I'm thinking that if there are seams it will be easier to add them in later, than if I make them and it turns out that there were no seams.
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