Forum and Costume Controls

   FAQFAQ  SearchSearch  MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups  medals.php?sid=0f51511c300050b866f14cfa8a3a5217Medals   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in

       
REMINDER: Do not change your e-mail address yourself. Please read this first for why.

2 Piece Resistance Pilot Suit Build

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Rebel Pilots -> TFA X-Wing Pilots
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Jynger ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 14 Sep 2017
Posts: 29

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:05 am    Post subject: 2 Piece Resistance Pilot Suit Build Reply with quote

Hello to all you Rebels out there!

My husband and I love costumes that require jumpsuits, but we hate having to basically strip down in the bathroom just to do our business. So we decided to try making a two piece Resistance Pilot jumpsuit that was comfortable and approvable.

I am happy to say that our first attempt got my husband successfully approved, so to help the rest of you out I've started putting together my own suit and taking TONS of pictures along the way.

Check out the thread HERE regarding the event my husband is helping to host in Seattle. There are some great cost breakdowns and more information to help prepare you for the build!

To begin, I purchased the KwikSew pattern 3389 (I found mine at Fabric Depot in Portland, OR) Here is an Amazon Link



Some helpful links to materials before beginning:

-Rolling Foot for sewing over bulky elastic

-Zipper Foot

-3 inch Ruffled Elastic Band
Plus Rit dye for synthetic fibers in Racing Red

-Solarium Solar 54" outdoor fabric in Cherry

-Extra butcher paper, muslin, or other pattern making medium for making the pockets/chaps patterns (pdf patterns and instructions to follow)

-Heavy Duty snap fastener 5/8" size

-Hook and Eye closures for neck 3/8" size

-Knit cuffs in White
Plus Rit DyeMore synthetic fabric dye in Frost Gray

-Boots

-Resistance Pilot Gloves


Last edited by Jynger () on Mon Oct 16, 2017 6:05 pm; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Jynger ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 14 Sep 2017
Posts: 29

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I'm still about halfway done with the jumpsuit, but here's what I have so far:

Materials needed:
5 yards Solar Cherry Outdoor fabric
Matching Thread
2x 1" Buckle
Metal loop clasps
1" quick release buckle
1.5 yds 1" Charcoal lightweight polystyrene webbing
1.5-2 yards 3" Orange Ruffled elastic (circufrance of collar and 2x collar to wrist)
Gray elastic woven cuffs
1x Seperating zipper aprox waist size (I used 36")
1x Seperating zipper from waist to neck (I used 12")
1x Zipper length of pant fly (I used 6")
Kwiksew 3389 Pattern
RIT Dye More synthetic fabric dye in Racing Red
Snaps

ARM STRIPES AND COLLAR
(Somehow, I didn't take pictures of the dying process, but it's pretty quick and easy)
First, break out the RIT dye, and 3" ruffle elastic. Cut a small sample of your fabric for color matching. I prefer to dye on my stove top.
-Break out a tall pot. Fill up half with water and set stove to med high. Be sure the water level is taller than the elastic.
-Moisten the fabric with warm tap water.
-As the pot heats up, pour in half the container of dye.
-When it steams, use plastic or stainless tongs and set the elastic in there. I had my elastic in there for about 15 minutes before I took it out to rinse. The color you want is an EXACT color match to the fabric. Yes, I'm aware the screen stuff is lighter and more orange than the solar cherry fabric. After you rinse it off, it will get lighter. And when it dries, it will get lighter. Take it out when it's a color match to the fabric and when it dries it'll be the color you need.

JUMPSUIT, PATTERN

Next cut out your patterns.

Warning, they run big. I will say this, my husband is 5'6" 165 lbs, wears a 31x30 pant and a 38S jacket. He cut his patterns out for a M to be safe, but ended up taking in the outseam of the pants in by 2.5" and taking a bunch off the arms. It's an easy correction and I'll tell you how he did it when the suit is nearly finished.

Cut only the pieces that correspond to my pattern layout. Not much modification is required for the pattern.
On piece 9, continue the line of the top of the pants and side of the pants, do NOT cut out the area where the pockets go.

On piece 1, mark a line 4" inches down from the lowest point of the collar. Cut it and add an inch to the piece. After you cut the piece out, make sure to mark the line 4" down from the collar and mark another line 1" under that on both sides.

The majority of the mods happen on the chaps (Peice O) which sits over the pants. Piece O should be the length of the top of your pants to below the knee a bit. You derive its shape by putting the outseams of the two leg pieces together, and drawing that curve from the middle of the front leg to an inch below the crotch, and at the side seam curving under your butt to an 1" under the crotch again. I've included images of the pockets, and new pattern layout. For PDF files of the pockets and layout, shoot me a PM

PATTERN LAYOUT


COLLAR (added later, not pictured on layout)


POCKETS








JUMPSUIT PART ONE

IMPORTANT! This fabric is basically woven plastic, so please start with your iron on the lowest possible setting! You're just using it as a warm assistant to hand creasing. The fabric holds a small amount of crease without any heat at all, so GO SLOW!

Take piece 1, fold the top line you marked down to the bottom line, top sew the overlap together with a top stitch. Do for both #1 pieces. (NOTICE THE IRON ON MIN)



Pin piece 3 to the fronts you just top stitched at shoulder seams and stitch together. Press seams toward yoke (piece 3) and top stitch for reinforcement.





Take the 3" ruffle elastic, and cut a length similar to the collar pattern. Put both fabrics face to face and sew 1/4" in on 3 edges. There will be 1" overhang on the bottom edge.


TIP: I highly recommend using the rolling foot I mentioned in the first post while working with this bulky elastic!



Trim any elastic that overhangs after stitching, as well as trimming the points off the corners (it'll help get a better looking outside edge), turn inside out, use a pen or corner tool to push out corners, and top stitch. Mark the center point on the collar elastic and the neckline. Put right side of collar elastic and neckline together and stitch, leaving the fabric backing of the collar unattached. Then fold the collar fabric under and top stitch





Pin together the fronts of the pants and sew along just the crotch curve under the zipper area (called the facing)


On just the left front side, at the bottom of the facing, fold it over toward the right side and stitch along just the bottom edge. Clip seam to where the crotch and facing stitches meet.


Place your closed pant zipper (6 inches for me) on the left side first, aligning the edge of the zipper with the edge of the facing. You'll really want a zipper foot for this step.




Sew the other half of the zipper on the right side of facing, making sure to keep both sides even


Repeat the zipper instructions for the jacket as well



To make the tucks on the back of the jacket portion, fold fabric on piece 2 at points marked on the pattern. Pin and stitch just across top and bottom edges of folds.




Pin piece 2 to yoke and stitch. Press seam toward yoke and topstitch for reinforcement.




Pin back leg pieces together and stitch along crotch seam. Press seam toward left side and topstitch for reinforcement.




Pin sleeve to armhole, matching pattern notches and armhole edges. Stitch together and repeat on the other side.



This is where you sew on the rest of the 3" ruffle elastic. Measure the distance from the ruffle collar, down the midline of the arm to the sleeve. Cut elastic to size. Pin it, and topstitch it to the sleeve on both sides.



Pin together jacket at sides, stitch together.


I stuck half of the waist zipper on the bottom of the jacket and did an overlock stitch on the small amount of raw edge between the waist and front zippers. I was super tired at this point and since the waist zipper will be hidden, I didn't bother to make it the prettiest thing in town.



This is where I stopped for now. Since my husband is out of town for the weekend doing the Alpha Base TFA pilot build in Seattle, I'll finish my suit this coming week. More updates to come when I finish!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
TerranCmdr ()



Joined: 03 Oct 2016
Posts: 34

Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is great, thanks so much for sharing! This will be extremely useful when I go for my Suit MK II™
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Jynger ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 14 Sep 2017
Posts: 29

Medals: None

PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More updates today on the suit build!

First of all, I fixed the zipper on my jacket because it's been driving me crazy, thinking about how haphazardly I attached it.


PANTS

The finished pants will have chaps and pockets on them, so to start the base of the lower half of the jumpsuit, join the inseam and outseam with a long temporary stitch (set your machine to the longest stitch length) so that you can easily rip it out later without damaging the fabric.


Measure the waist of the pants and mark them to the length of the zipper from the jacket. FOR EXAMPLE: My zipper is 36". I measured 9 inches on either side of the zipper on the front of the pants and 18 inches, centered across the back of the pants.


Pin the pants together at the marks and try them on to make sure they fit. While fitting the pants, mark a line from the waist to the hip area with a gradual taper that won't bunch or pucker. Stitch along your mark and continue down the length of the leg, then trim the seam


Pin the zipper on the waist and attach


Now, on to the zipper cover flaps. Use the remaining 2 pieces cut from the kwik sew pattern.


Pin the pant flap on, measure, and trim away any extra material


Stitch along the top and bottom, then flip right side out. Place the flap on the pants and mark where the raw edge should fall and attach backwards. Fold over the right way and top stitch.


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Philonius ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 08 Mar 2011
Posts: 729
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2017 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very interesting.

How will you attach the top to the bottom half? Will the belt be hiding this?


I have some observations/suggestions:

I noticed you are making the back with gussets... the actual suit doesn't have gussets, so that can be one more thing to simplify it, make it a flat piece (besides having the fake yoke seams at chest level).

The chaps should have a seam in the middle that matches up with the outer leg seam. This also makes for more efficient cutting of the fabric, having them as two pieces instead of one.

I always do the collar last. This lets you lock in the elastic on the shoulders and the zipper placket. Plus you save sewing those dumb flat collar hooks on for last Smile

The right cargo pocket is weird. It's more of a rectangle with a rounded edge along the front-bottom, with a scoop-shaped flap with parallel stitches running vertically about every 3/8" (kinda like the stitched panel on the face of the left cargo pocket).

I noticed your materials list calls for 3-4 yards.... you'll need about 6-7 yards, actually. Some of the pockets can be made from scraps after cutting out the main pieces, but things like the pocket side strips, zipper placket, and the bigger pockets will eat up some of that material.

If you guys are buying a bunch of fabric & haven't already, I'd go to Online Fabric Store and pay $9/yard (free shipping over $50 too) instead of chasing coupons at Joann's. (This is what I've started doing... plus I'm making about a suit a week these days, so running around town hoping they have enough in stock & trying to hit the 60% coupons was getting crazy!) Here's OFS' page for Solar Cherry: https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/richloom-outdoor-solar-cherry-fabric-.htm?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla


Hope that helps....
_________________
Generic Clone Wars-era Jedi
RotJ A-wing pilot
TFA Resistance pilot
Massiff Squadron CO

"The value of moving slowly is that one can always clearly see the way ahead."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Jynger ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 14 Sep 2017
Posts: 29

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips! Our build party took some of those into consideration, especially losing the back nonsense. It was too puffy anyway!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Jynger ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 14 Sep 2017
Posts: 29

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 3:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cut off abruptly last time, but the next step was adding the zipper cover on the jacket. I cut a strip using pattern pieces 7&8 together



Sew along the two short sides and one long side. Leave one long side open. Clip your corners and flip right side out, then topstitch


Place the top of your snap on the inner layer of the zipper cover flap so that the metal is hidden during wear.


Sew the zipper cover on, and topstitch



Use the top of the snap to help determine the placement of the bottom half of the snap



Then hand sew the neck closures on
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Jynger ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 14 Sep 2017
Posts: 29

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 4:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The chaps require some placement based on your own personal measurements, so I've marked my knee line for reference


Cut out and make your pattern pieces for the pocket strips



Cut out your pockets


Use the zigzag stitch at the smallest stitch length to make the decorative element of the largest pocket


Fold over and stitch along one long edge of each of the pocket strips


Attach the strips to the corresponding pockets


Attach the pockets according to the drawings here (disregard the center, obviously)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Philonius ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 08 Mar 2011
Posts: 729
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem.

I did just notice that you're doing a zipper to attach the top & bottom halves... That answers my previous question. I'm assuming that the belt will be able to cover this up.
_________________
Generic Clone Wars-era Jedi
RotJ A-wing pilot
TFA Resistance pilot
Massiff Squadron CO

"The value of moving slowly is that one can always clearly see the way ahead."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Jynger ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 14 Sep 2017
Posts: 29

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it's our way of being able to go to the bathroom without completely disrobe in a tiny bathroom stall Mr. Green I often have to do bathroom runs with two young kids as well. It's not fun lol
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
MJPL1 ()



Joined: 22 Apr 2015
Posts: 2

Medals: None

PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 4:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any further progress? This looks great!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Crusader ()
Active Legion Member


Joined: 06 May 2014
Posts: 35

Medals: None

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any update on this build?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Rebel Legion Forum Index -> Costume and Prop Making -> Rebel Pilots -> TFA X-Wing Pilots All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can post calendar events in this forum
The Rebel Legion is a worldwide Star Wars costuming organization comprised of and operated by Star Wars fans. While not sponsored by Lucasfilm Ltd., it is Lucasfilm's preferred volunteer Rebel costuming group. Star Wars, its characters, costumes, and all associated items are the intellectual property of Lucasfilm. © 2019 Lucasfilm Ltd. & ™ All rights reserved. Used under authorization.


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group