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Ep 9 tROS General Leia WIP
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doinit4carrie ()
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2021 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had my last fitting today! Marked and pinned the bottom hem and pinned the shoulder pads into place. It will also get pressed.

But here it is as of today.

When it's done, I'll start organizing my photos for submission, including side-by-side shots and descriptions. I'll share all of that here.





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doinit4carrie ()
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2021 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ep 9 Leia WIP – final entry

At long last, I am done creating my Episode 9 General Leia! From the time I started researching the costume to gathering photos, looking for material, then finally working on the construction, it took 18 months. For this update, I will be posting a lot of photos and descriptions. The colors vary in the photos. Consider the lighting on the costume (mannequin) is bright in some photos, dark in others, and that some are screenshots. I will also quote the proposed costume standard to aid in showing the completed work in the photos.

Some comparison photos:









Hair:

• Swept back and divided into two sections at the nape of the neck. No visible part.
• At the nape each section is twisted and crossed at the nape. There are two loose buns that lead into the twists wrapping up over the top of the head like a headband.*
• Brownish grey hair preferred, any naturally occurring color accepted.
• If a wig or extensions are used, they should be high quality and look like hair.

*The twisted headband is often referred to as a “mourning braid”.

The wig was commissioned from Marcia at ConHair Wigs.
https://www.conhairwigs.com/








Blouse/Tunic:

• Rough weave gauze linen, cotton or similar
• Accepted colors range from a deep dusty rose/reddish plum to a wine/reddish burgundy (see color pulls)
• High cowl neckline reaching just above the base of the neck.
• Bias cut tunic ends just below the hips/upper thigh.
• Sleeves are straight, cut to wrist length with tucks or ruching along the underarm seam at the elbow that shorten them to ¾ length. Ruching is only at the elbow for approximately 5-7.6 cm (2-3 inches).

There was no ready-made pattern for the blouse. I made my own using an old blouse to get the basic shape and size. I made sure not to cut a front neckline. I used some white gauze as a mockup. I cut everything over sized then built it on my mannequin, pinning it where it should be sewn. It was important to drape the cowled neck very high, along the base of the neck as this is how it appears on screen. Most cowl necks drape down a bit at least. Not this one. Once I pinned the draped cowl exactly where it should be, it was difficult to keep it as is and transfer to the sewing machine. So, all the shoulder seams, where the ends of the folds are for the cowl draping, are hand-sewn while still on the mannequin. I cut about a 3 inch long opening at the back center neckline from getting the blouse on and off. I used a hook and eye closure.
I left the bottom long until I could see where it should be hemmed near completion. I left the sleeves long while I gathered the sleeves at the elbows to make the Ruching. I sewed them in by hand. Then I hemmed the sleeves at the right height.














Trousers:

• Wide legged pants similar to palazzo pants.
• A bottomweight knit in a dark plum, wine or burgundy. Color is in the same family as the blouse, but a shade darker.
• Hem almost touches the ground.

The pants were the first item I made because they were going to be the easiest. I found a pattern for some roomy lounge/pajama pants (with pockets) to use. I lucked out finding a fabric virtually the same shade as the screen used costume. The fabric is medium weight knit. Like a thick crepe.





Belt:

• Belt consists of two rows of linked brass tubes that run parallel to one another on either side of a weathered brass toned buckle. The rows are connected to the buckle, but the top and bottom are independent of one another.
• Each brass tube is approximately 4 cm (1 ½ inches) tall. The tubes are connected with silver toned wire threaded through the center to create linked rectangles.
• Links are connected to the buckle with a brown leather or leather-like strap that threads through the center of the buckle. Each row is connected to a separate strap.
• Buckle is a modified trefoil shape.* The buckle has a center section and two outer sections. The center piece is wider at the top, curving in at the middle and widening again at the bottom. The top is a convex petal shape, while the bottom is a larger concave petal shape. The outer edges are shaped like narrow ellipses. All three sections have two upper and two lower slots for the leather strap to thread through.

Optional:
• The buckle surface may have a hammered or scored texture.
*Buckle shape is similar to the TFA buckle, but is larger, wider, and more symmetrical.

The belt was a huge challenge until I figured it out. I did a tutorial which is on page 2 of this WIP.






Boots:
• Dark brown or black leather or leather-like boot.
• Rounded toe.
• Low block heel- approximately 4 - 5 cm (1 ½ - 2 inches) tall.
• Plain boot without visible straps or buckles, hidden inside zip is allowed.

The boots are hardly seen at all. Since we could not really see if they were black or dark brown, I decided to go with brown because I found the perfect pair on clearance at Target that matched the belt leather. There are other photos of the boots in the WIP. They were too high, so I cut them down for comfort.






Waistcoat:

• Long sleeveless vest ending approximately 4 cm (1 ½ inches) above the floor.
• Twill or similar fabric (screen-used fabric was silk) in a dark grey such as slate, charcoal, or steel. Grey may have purple undertones.
• Outer fabric has quilted rectangles* approximately 1.6 cm (⅝ inches) by 4 cm (1½ inches).
• Vest lined with a black corded fabric; screen-used was likely a faillie (similar to grosgrain) or a thin waled corduroy such as a needlecord.
• Front features shaping seams that run from the top of the collar, over the shoulder across the bust and to the hem. These seams help create the front pieces of the standing collar.
• Collar reaches to just below the earlobes in front and the nape of the neck in back. The collar consists of four pieces. The front pieces are cut as part of the vest front; the back pieces are set into the neckline with a center back seam. The quilting angles away from this seam forming inverted V-shapes.
• Shoulder seam sits approximately 5 cm (2 inches) toward the back, meeting the collar almost at the center back. Seam runs parallel to a traditional shoulder seam.
• Inside the top of the armhole there is a padded section covered in the vest fashion fabric, quilted horizontally, and positioned like a shoulder pad.
• Waistcoat back has three vertical seams; a center back seam and two side seams. The side seams are positioned 2/3 thirds the distance from the center back to the armscye on either side of the center.
• There is an inverted box pleat at the top of the center back which is stitched closed for about 7.6 cm (three inches) before opening.
• There is one inverted box pleat on each side, directly under the armpit. The pleats are stitched closed, opening at the hip.
• There is an additional side seam, each side, starting at the back edge of the armpit, no pleats.
• Cloak flares very slightly at the hip increasing in width to the bottom.
Optional:
• Monotone herringbone weave
• Metallic thread used for vertical quilting
• Couched cording for horizontal quilting on vest
• Seam allowance on back side seams is pressed to one side creating a deep seam.
*The screen-used vest created the horizontal lines with couched cording.

My work on this waistcoat began with conversation about what the color is, what the fabric is, etc. I think I spent more time hunting for the outer material than the actual construction. Once the hunt was over, I knew I would not be able to construct this piece myself. I commissioned a friend and fellow base member Erika Kawaguchi. @erikaalamode. She is an excellent designer and seamstress. Her attention to detail and knowledge of materials and construction is nothing short of phenomenal.
I must point you to her directly for any questions about construction. But I hope the photos below will suffice to show how diligently we worked to match the screen used costume.
The waistcoat is stunning. It is comfortable, though warm. It flows and swings beautifully with movement.





The pic of the costume on display has very bright lighting, so the colors are much lighter than they appear on screen. My costume colors are closely matched with the colors seen on screen.








I found a bengaline faille with horizontal striping, like grosgrain. It’s not quite as rugged as the screen used costume, but it works well.




It is important to note that the padding underneath the shoulder edge is best positioned with the bulk of it resting toward the back of the shoulder. It helps position and hold up the shoulder just right.




Detail of collar:






Detail of collar and back:






Shoulders: Waistcoat is on the mannequin




Back:




We followed the guideline of the costume standard for the dimensions of the quilted rectangles. Earlier in my WIP you will see samples of sizes. We found it was important to scale the rectangles to the size of the costume. (I am 5’1”, so the rectangles were proportioned to my height/ coat’s height and width.)



Jewelry:

• Gold or bronze toned ear cuffs that curl around the lower ear lobe and extend up the back of the ear. May have a hammered finish.
• Gold or bronze toned wrist cuff approximately (7.6 cm) 3 inches wide worn on the right wrist consisting of a thin wired effect. The wrist cuff features a gradual wave pattern. The wire sections may have irregular indentations.
• Long gold or bronze toned ring featuring two intersecting arches and set with two circular blue stones worn on the right ring finger.
• Large gold or bronze blue-teal tone oval ring worn on the left ring finger. (Mainly blue with flecks of other colors recommended). Ring setting is made of tentacle-like prongs.

I found all the jewelry on ETSY. I think I noted the vendor earlier in my WIP.





The usual submission photos:











Some poses:







And there she is!
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CiCi503 ()



Joined: 13 Oct 2021
Posts: 3
Location: Portland OR
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 5:48 pm    Post subject: So impressed Reply with quote

I just started my own "CGI Leia" build... I had no immediate plans to build it to Legion standards and to be honest, I picked it in part and thought it ought to be pretty easy - I figured all I'd need is some off the rack clothes, a big vest, and to make a belt and some jewelry.

Then I found your (awesome, amazing) reference photos, read about your build, and.... OMG. I'm so impressed by your committment and attention to detail! I still don't think my own costume will be legion-worthy any time soon, but clearly even just getting the accessories right is going to be tougher than I thought. I just wanted to thank you for your very-thorough documentation and notes, especiallly re: all your trials and.tribulations re: belt construction!

If helpful to anyone else - I just wanted to share a few notes about my own efforts to source belt materials:

I found some 1.5" non-welded belt/webbing rectangular slide rings / tuck loops on Etsy that I'm going to try as belt links, if I pry them straight on one side and then bend them back once the brass tubing is placed. I did find others, but most of what I found was oval vs rectangular, or fakrly think/sturdier than wire, or with a spacing that seemed a little bit too wide when I compared to the proportions of the links in the reference photo (1/2" or sometimes 3/8" x 1.5"). Still, I think they were "close enough" to do a passable job if having links spaced just a bit looser than the reference photo would be OK.

I did find one set of tuck loops from *one* vendor on Etsy that was a little narrower than the others (3/8"), and was also in a smaller gauge (13 gauge) narrow enough so that I was able to find some 5mm, .5mm-walled tubing that could work (I even found a vendor with a thinner-walled .2mm-walled brass tubing in a 4.5mm diameter that would have worked, but, they didn't have enough in stock). But it was black, not silver, so I'll have to grind the finish off the visible parts, if this even works. (I 'd post a link, but I bought out her whole stock).

I also found a few sources for belt slides/tuck rings on AliExpress, along with sources of pre-cut brass metal tube "beads" ... though none of the ones I fou d were quite the right length for a 1.5" loop, or they were tall but had thick walls and only had a 2mm opening... etc. I'm having major Goldilocks syndrome over these belt components! Ultimately, I decided to cut my own beads.

But for the links: If my tuck rings don't work for my build, I'm going to try to make my own links from wire using the method you posted. One trick from a jewelry making class I took came to mind that might be hekpful to future buikders - when making chains from scratch, you to wrap wire in the appropriate gauge around a dowel to get "jump rings) with uniform shapes/sizing, and then you cut the links off one at a time using a jewers saw (basically just a tiny hacksaw, with tiny teeth, that you use by sawing very lightly. But if you don't care about having flat surfaces to butt up for soldering later, you can also just snip them off with wire cutters). Anyway - My thought was, I bet you could make slide rings the same way, if you had a peice of wood trim with the right dimensions to wrap the wire around, and wire in a gauge/alloy that cooperates.
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doinit4carrie ()
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks CiCi503!

I'm glad my WIP is helpful!
I tried a lot more components for the belt than I think I listed. Your trials sound just like mine. I did use something to make my metal "links" uniform in their bends, but it was a pair of needle-nose pliers.

If you are just going for an easier cosplay, I made this Disneybound version too. I just found a red-colored cowl neck shirt and the blue sweater vest on Amazon. I got the belt buckle I was later going to use for the belt in my legion costume, but I bought some gold shiny wide elastic for the belt. I had the rings already and the bracelet is a straight version of the screen used version. The pants and boots are used in my legion costume. (Pants were very easy to make.) And for my hair, I wore one of those fake hair braided head bands and my hair in a bun.

DISNEYBOUND VERSION

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Proudly serving Endor Base as TFA and TROS General Leia Organa, Jawa - "Po", Jedi Knight T'sessa Free, and Event Outreach Coordinator.

"Stay Afraid, but do it anyway." - Carrie Fisher
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CiCi503 ()



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Location: Portland OR
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 8:07 pm    Post subject: It all looks amazing Reply with quote

I have a "casual Leia" cosplay idea that would be kind of an adaptation of CGI-Leia training Rey (one that's slightly more practical for swamp training... or a full day at a convention). But I really want to get the accessories as close as I can, because that and the hair is what really makes the costumes identifiable as "Leia" to me. Also, if I can nail those, that leaves the door open to trying to get the clothes right for a more Legion-ready outfit down the line (although seeing your threads, I realize that might not be as easy at it sounded at first, either).
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doinit4carrie ()
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 8:50 pm    Post subject: Re: It all looks amazing Reply with quote

[quote="CiCi503"]I have a "casual Leia" cosplay idea that would be kind of an adaptation of CGI-Leia training Rey (one that's slightly more practical for swamp training... or a full day at a convention). But I really want to get the accessories as close as I can, because that and the hair is what really makes the costumes identifiable as "Leia" to me. Also, if I can nail those, that leaves the door open to trying to get the clothes right for a more Legion-ready outfit down the line (although seeing your threads, I realize that might not be as easy at it sounded at first, either).[/quote]

Sounds like a good plan!

But, when you say "CGI Leia", it's a bit confusing because many people are usually referring to the younger, Jedi Training Leia.
For name purposes, this costume is called TROS General Leia or Episode 9 General Leia.
The breakdown of how Leia appeared in TROS is that the costume was digitally enhanced for the scene in the woods where Rey was training and another scene where there is a "huddle" at the camp discussing action plans. In these two scenes, it was only the very top (shoulders, neck) of the costume that was seen and altered. The face and hair was Carrie.
But the rest of the appearances of General Leia is Carrie's long-time stand-in wearing the physical costume and hair styled. In this instance, you see the entire costume (and hair) and only Carrie's face is composited over the stand-in's face.

Jedi Training Leia was achieved with a stunt person and Carrie's daughter Billie providing the costumed body and then Carrie's face from a scene in ROJ was composited in.

I'm curious to see your belt build. Maybe start a WIP of your own?
Good luck!
_________________
Proudly serving Endor Base as TFA and TROS General Leia Organa, Jawa - "Po", Jedi Knight T'sessa Free, and Event Outreach Coordinator.

"Stay Afraid, but do it anyway." - Carrie Fisher
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CiCi503 ()



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2021 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good idea - if I make it that far and figure out anything even a tiny bit easier on my fingers to build, I'll put something up. Until then - just awed at how hard this is, and wanted to thank you for sharing all your pics and hard work. :-)
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doinit4carrie ()
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2021 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="CiCi503"]That's a good idea - if I make it that far and figure out anything even a tiny bit easier on my fingers to build, I'll put something up. Until then - just awed at how hard this is, and wanted to thank you for sharing all your pics and hard work. :-)[/quote]

Well, you're welcome!
If you want to try my belt-making method, making the links wasn't hard on my hands. (And I have diminished strength from arthritis, fibromyalgia and I now have tremors!)
Good luck!
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Proudly serving Endor Base as TFA and TROS General Leia Organa, Jawa - "Po", Jedi Knight T'sessa Free, and Event Outreach Coordinator.

"Stay Afraid, but do it anyway." - Carrie Fisher
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