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Jocasta Nu Tutorial

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galadriel975 ()

Joined: 14 Apr 2015
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Location: San francisco
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 5:24 am    Post subject: Jocasta Nu Tutorial Reply with quote

I recently Finished a Jocasta Nu build, and will be submitting it for approval as soon as I finish making the notions. I wanted to share my process since I know there aren't many tutorials for this particular costume. I'm having trouble with my photos for some reason to view them go to my Flickr:

After quite a long time of staring at pictures I decided to make this costume out of raw silk which I sourced from Dharma Trading Company, I use them for all of my dye materials and am constantly surprised by their level of customer service. For this build I purchased around 15 yards of the fabric to allow for shrinkage and it was good that I did because it shrunk by about a foot or more in the dye bath. for the lining I used a basic cotton in the same quantity.

I chose dharma's Truffle Brown fiber reactive dye for the dress which came out perfect. The original dye color for the tunic was going to be their Palomino Gold which came out so orange on the silk that I had to re order new fabric. (I can't stress enough the importance of doing dye tests, I usually do a test on a small swatch of fabric first before I dye the lot to verify the color choice, but I got impatient and it cost me almost $50.) So after much cursing I did a dye test with Ivory mixed with the tiniest drop of the Palomino Gold which still came out too orange for my liking, so I settled for just Ivory, which I still feel isn't quite right and eventually I will be testing brushing on a toned down yellow to see if it helps but for now I think its close enough. I generally dye my fabrics in my washing machine so that I don't have to constantly stir it, just remember if you choose to dye fabric with this method you need to keep an eye on the machine ant turn back the knob so all your dye doesn't run out.

I used two simplicity patterns for this costume the first was simplicity 1137 which is their Sansa Stark pattern set.

I chose this because it would need minimal alterations to the original pattern. All I needed to change was the neckline which I raised 2 or so inches (everyone will be a little different on this so make sure you measure to find what works for you.)
The second pattern was for the tunic, I chose simplicity 5840 which is their jedi costume. Its important to note that the only part of this pattern I use is the outer tunic (unless I am making a traditional jedi costume and then I sometimes will use the dickey pattern)

The biggest change I make to this pattern is on the neck binding no matter what type of jedi tunic I'm making I always double the number of neck binding pieces. I hate that the picture one the front of the envelope shows a roughly 2 inch wide binding but when you actually look at the piece they give you and the number they suggest to cut you would end up with a 1 inch wide binding. so what I do is cut 4 binding pieces. I sew the first two together at the back of the neck, attach that to the tunic then sew the next two together at the neck as well and sew them to the previously attached piece. Then I fold that at the seam and iron it and then measure and fold the raw edge up 1/2 an inch and sew it "in the ditch" (meaning along the groove created by the seam where the tunic and binding meet) the only other alteration this pattern needed was to hem it shorter since Jocasta's tunic only falls to her low hip. For the tabards and obi I make my own patterns. The tabards I decided to make slightly shorter in the back than they are in the front, so I measured from my shoulder to roughly mid calf then made a rectangle 6 inches wide, allotting 1/2 inch on each side for seam allowance, and the length of that measurement. I then made a second rectangle about 5 inches shorter for the back. I then measured my waist and, since I would be wearing this costume with a corset, subtracted around 5 inches or so. I then made binding pieces 2 inches wide (these get folded in half and then folded again so the edges meet the center fold so a 2 inch wide binding equals only a visible half inch of fabric) I then drew the patterns onto the pattern pieces. I had decided early on that I wanted the obi to be boned to help it hold its structure so at the back I drew the boning slots with space for grommets in between.

Once the pieces were all cut I sewed the dress together more or less the way the pattern suggests with just a few changes. Since I was setting a lining I started by sewing the dress together in the outer fabric and then the lining, then sewed the lining and the outer fabric together at the neck starting about 1 1/2 inches from the edge and ending with about the same gap on the other side (this is so you can set the zipper later) then I pressed the seam allowance to the lining side and sewed about 1/8 an inch from the original seam, (this helps keep the lining tucked under so you cant see it from the outside) I then repeated this process with the sleeves. next is the zipper, I used an invisible one, I find them to be easier to attach and the nicest looking. I have an invisible zipper foot, I highly recommend investing in one, they make sewing invisible zippers so easy! I sewed the zipper first to the outer fabric and then to the inner fabric (I can post a tutorial on this if anyone needs it) and then finished the neck seam. for the hem I needed dome help so I had my mother chalk mark it at the length I wanted and then I cut it 2 1/2 inches below that line folding the raw edge up 1/2 inch and pressing and then again at the chalk line since she has a fairly wide hem the last thing to do was sew that in place. The tunic was done the same way only I Attached the sleeves first and then just sewed the lining and outer fabric together with the raw edges still exposed and then added the binding the way I described above and hemmed the whole thing.

The tabards and obi were easily the most complicated and time consuming part of this costume. I cut each tabard piece out 4 times and twice for the obi of the raw silk because I didn't want them to twist and have lining fabric be exposed and then half of that in fusible interfacing for added stiffness. Once that was done I used transfer paper to copy the design onto the fabric, I then fused the interfacing onto each piece that would have the pattern on it. For the obi I used a double needle in my machine and using a thick thread top stitched the pattern on. This process took 3 hours.

For the tabards I used a single needle and the same thick thread. each piece took an hour to complete. The front and back of the tabards were then sewn together, I then laid the top stitched pieces onto the non top stitched ones and sewed them together right sides together along the narrow edge flipped them around and pressed it flat. The obi then needed to have the bone casing sewn and the bones inserted. I put two on each side of the center back with an inch gap in between for the grommets. the boning helps the obi keep its shape and prevents it from scrunching when laced. After all of that was done I sewed the long edges together and bound it all together with the bindings I cut. After that was done all that was left was to sew snaps to the tabards and the tunic at the shoulders to keep them in place and lace the obi, I use a standard corset lacing technique and I'd be happy to post a tutorial on that if anyone is interested.

Hope you like it!
So this is how liberty dies... with thunderous applause
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Grey Jedi (Donna Keeley)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tutorials can be posted in their respective costume categories.

Here is the link for the Jedi Tutorials:
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